How to get rid of pests on a palm tree. Washington palm: what do the yellow spots say? Hamedorea graceful or Neantha

The appearance of this pest cannot be confused with anything. This is a fairly large relative of the scale insect. Mealybug reaches up to 8 mm in length.

Female individuals of "hairy lice" have an undeveloped oval-shaped body, more characteristic of insect larvae. Numerous eggs are laid in special sacs in the axils of the leaves. The shoots on which the pest lives are covered with a sticky, waxy coating of white.

Males are not at all like females - they have wings and normally developed limbs, the body is divided into sections and ends in a bundle of tail filaments

With the help of their oral apparatus, females and larvae easily pierce the surface of a leaf, bud or shoot and suck the juices out of it. Young mealybugs are extremely mobile and easily move between plants. Sexually mature males do not feed, because as they grow older, their mouthparts atrophy.

Signs of a mealybug infection

To detect pests, it is enough to carefully examine a houseplant.

Main features:

drooping appearance, lethargy of leaves and shoots;
underdeveloped buds, deformed leaves;
white powdery coating with lumps;
small "mosquitoes" (male mealybugs) on the windows near the pots;
the presence of sticky mucus (honeydew) on all parts of the plant;
the presence of white blotches in an earthy coma during transplantation;
the presence of white oval insects.

Any of these symptoms may indicate the appearance of a worm. Not a single flower is immune from infection. Citrus, amaryllis, cycad and palm plants, as well as cacti, violets and orchids, should be taken under special control.

Often suffers from an azalea pest, the photo of which is given in the article. The pest attacks young shoots. Leaves stop growing and turn yellow. Azalea, whose photo demonstrates her beauty, struck by insects, is losing its former appearance.

Harm to the plant

The mealybug literally draws all the nutrients from the flowers, disrupting their growth and normal development. Sweet honeydew secreted by females provokes the development of associated fungal infections. Due to the sticky impermeable coating, the green pet's breathing worsens. This can lead to wilting and even leaf fall.

Mealy aphids (another name for mealybugs) do not give preference to a certain part of the plant, hitting everything that comes in its path. Under attack are not only shoots, buds and leaves, but also roots. If treatment is not started as soon as possible, the mealybug will spread to surrounding indoor plantings. In time, he will destroy them all. Therefore, it is necessary to immediately declare war if you notice a mealybug on indoor plants. How to deal with a pest will be described below.

Causes of the appearance of the mealybug

Why do these harmful insects appear?

There are several main reasons:

The presence of eggs and larvae in the soil. Even purchased soil can be contaminated, so it is very important to treat it with hot steam before use.
Transfer of larvae with newly acquired plants. New pets should be kept separately and periodically carefully inspected. You can put them next to the rest of the flowers only after finally making sure that there are no pests.
Mistakes in care - low air temperature in the room, stagnation of moisture in the soil, insufficient lighting, excessive fertilization. Improper care significantly reduces the immunity of the plant, provoking various diseases.
The presence of dust on the leaves, irregular removal of dry parts.
Untimely replacement of earth in pots. Harmful insects can start inside a compacted earthen coma.
Poor quality water for irrigation.

Folk methods of dealing with mealybugs

Now you know how dangerous a pest is for plants. You can easily determine that a mealybug has settled on houseplants.

How to deal with such an insect? With a small focus of infection, you can try to get rid of it without special means.

Popular home remedies:

Infusion of medicinal herbs. To process the plant, you can use horsetail, calendula. Powder purchased at a pharmacy should be brewed with boiling water. After the agent has cooled, the plant is treated with it. To prepare the infusion, use the following ratios: 100 g of horsetail (calendula) per 1 liter of liquid.
Tincture of garlic. This is a fairly effective method of dealing with mealybugs. Peel and mince a medium-sized whole head of garlic. Pour a liter of hot water and let it brew for 4 hours. Tincture of garlic is applied to the leaves and trunk with cotton wool or a sponge.
Oil emulsion. In a liter of warm water, stir 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Spray the affected leaves with a spray bottle.
Soap-alcohol solution. For its preparation, it is better to take natural soap, without perfume additives. For 1 liter of water, 1 teaspoon of grated soap and 1 tablespoon of ethyl alcohol is enough. Spray the affected parts of the plant, avoiding getting the solution on the earthen ball. You can carry out the procedure 1 time in 3 days. It is necessary to wash off the applied agent a day after spraying.
Tincture of lemon and orange peel. A surprisingly simple recipe that allows you to effectively rid the plant of pests. Take the peels of lemon, orange and pour boiling water over them. The ratio is as follows: 30-50 g of zest per 1 liter of liquid. During the day, the remedy should be infused. Then treat your green pets with this infusion using a spray bottle.

Mealybug chemicals

With inefficiency folk methods or large foci of infection, you have to turn to chemical insecticides.

Widely available effective drugs against mealybugs:

"Decis".
"Vertimek".
"Tsvetofos".
Nurell D.
Phosphamide.
"Bi-58".
"Actellik".
Fitoverm.
"Aplaud".

Special difficulties with such substances should not arise. The main thing is to carefully read the instructions and follow all precautions.

Affected plants should be quarantined. Usually 3-4 insecticide treatments are sufficient. If the pests still remain, you need to change the drug.

Precautionary measures

Make sure that the drugs used do not cause harm:

Use chemicals only in a well ventilated area.
Keep children and pets out of the way.
Use personal protective equipment to avoid poisoning.

Preventive measures

Periodically inspect green spaces.
Replant grown flowers regularly.
Inspect the earthen ball during transplantation. Rinse the soil with hot water (about 55° C).
Properly care for flowers according to their preferences.
Timely remove dying parts of the plant. Dried leaves can serve as a convenient shelter for various pests.
Before planting, scald the pots with boiling water, and steam the soil.
Observe quarantine measures for new plants.

Insects are an integral part of any ecosystem, but they have no place on the landscaped window sills of apartments. Especially if a mealybug appeared on houseplants. How to deal with a pest, you know. Therefore, use any available methods. After all, healthy home plants without pests are actively developing and delighting the eye with bright greenery and abundant flowering.

Here are the most common plant diseases that are found on indoor flowers. Attention: on any plants in case of violation of agricultural technology (bay, hypothermia, overfeeding with fertilizers) or when planted in non-disinfected soil, signs of several diseases may appear. In the world around us, not one or two types of microorganisms, but millions. We can guess the disease by single characteristic spots. There are specific diseases that cannot be confused with anything: gray rot (long threads of gray mold), powdery mildew (leaves seem to be covered with white dust), dropsy of leaves in succulents (green pimples, the plant is not depressed), ring patterns from viruses and some other.

But very often, plants manifest several diseases at the same time, for example, orchids have tracheomycosis (fusarium) and at the same time septoria or phyllosticosis. Root rot and alternariosis. The good news is that the ones offered to us in the store are usually effective against many diseases. But do not forget that for personal households (i.e. for the home), drugs of hazard classes 3 and 4 are allowed.

Alternariosis and dry spotting

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Alternaria. The fungus infects mainly leaves, sometimes stems and tubers.

Symptoms: first appear dry brown spots, first of all on the lower, and then on the upper leaves. Usually concentric circles are visible on the spots. With the increase in the spot, it gradually turns black, and gray conidia become visible on it.

Frequent temperature changes and changes in humidity contribute to the spread of the disease, i.e. alternating dry and wet periods. But the optimal conditions for the development of the fungus are at temperatures above about 25-30 ° C and humidity up to 90%.

Prevention

Avoid overcrowded plants, cut out excess branches and leaves during. Ventilate the room or greenhouse, if the flowers are on the balcony, make sure that there is good ventilation and mold does not grow on the walls - this is an indicator of microclimate disturbances.

Control measures

Fungicides used to combat alternariosis:

abiga peak 50 g per 10 liters of water
acrobat MC 20 g per 5 l of water
oxychom 20 g per 10 l of water
hom 40 g per 10 liters of water
Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Anthracnose

The causative agent is fungi of the genera Colletotrichum, Gloeosporium, Kabatiella. Palm trees, ficuses, anthurium, etc. are more often affected.

Symptoms: The disease affects the leaves, stems, petioles and fruits of plants. Spots on different plants, and depending on the pathogen, look different.

Kabatiella zeae - causes the formation of small round or irregular spots, 2-5 mm in diameter with a clear outline. It looks like a yellow spot with a brown or black dot inside. If the spot is larger, instead of a black dot, a dark rim is formed, and inside it is a grayish ring.
Colletotrichum orbiculare - causes usually reddish-brown, often with a slight yellow border, spots, from 2 to 12 mm. On some plants the spots are pale green. Rounded or elongated in shape. In the affected areas, the spots merge, dry out, become like parchment, crack, holes form.
Colletotrichum trichellum - large yellowish-brown or gray-brown spots on leaves and stems with dark sporulation pads. If you look closely, it is noticeable that on the spots on the upper side of the leaf, the surface is not smooth, but covered with fluffy hairs of spores, however, the spores are already noticeable when the plant is severely damaged. The spots on the fruits are gray-brown with a dark middle, depressed.

Anthracnose develops rapidly in greenhouse conditions, i.e. at high air humidity (about 90-100%) and an elevated temperature of 22-27 °. And also with frequent (several times a day) spraying of plants. The fungus is frost-resistant - it is preserved in plant debris, in seeds and spreads with water during irrigation.

Prevention

Removal of leaves with suspicious spots, disinfection of the earth, seed dressing. Suspicious plants bought in the store are quarantined. When signs of the manifestation of the disease, it is necessary to stop spraying the plants.

Control measures

Spraying, usually three treatments are enough, using fungicides:

oxychom 15-20 g per 10 liters of water
: 100 g per 10 liters of water
colloidal sulfur: 50-100 g per 10 liters of water
strobi fungicide, in a system with other fungicides, 4 g per 10 l of water
abiga-peak: 50 g suspension per 10 liters of water

Ascochitosis

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Ascochyta. The most severe lesions are caused by ascochitosis of chrysanthemums, which most often affects plants of the Compositae family.

Symptoms: at the initial stage, small, only 1-2 mm reddish or brown spots appear on the leaves, sometimes brown, reddish with a yellowish or brown rim, of various shapes. The spots increase in size and acquire a dark brown necrotic hue with a yellowish chlorosis border around the edge. Small black spores of the fungus can only be seen under magnification with a magnifying glass. If the growth of the fungus on the stem rings it, then the stem easily breaks.

Sometimes the disease begins with signs of overdrying of the plant - the tips of the leaves begin to dry out, a dark brown stripe forms on the border with healthy tissue. The causative agent is very resistant to deep temperature changes, i.e. tolerates both severe drought and freezing of the soil. Preserved on plant residues, seeds. The disease spreads with the wind, undisinfected soil, water drops.

Prevention and treatment, as in .

Dropsy leaves (edema)

A disease caused not by a fungus or bacteria, but resulting from waterlogging of the soil, often with a lack of lighting. It usually appears in succulents, typical for peperomia, fat women, Kalanchoe, possibly on pelargonium, sheffler.

Symptoms: the plant, most often on the underside of the leaf, barely noticeable pimples appear, they seem watery, but are actually dense, sometimes, like cork growths, some look like warts, the color of the leaf may be preserved, i.e. the spots are green, may acquire a gray necrotic color. This is due to the fact that part of the roots dies (due to overdrying, waterlogging, hypothermia), nutrition is disrupted through the conductive vessels that were supplied by these particular roots. Since waterlogging is not strong, the soil had time to dry out, rotting did not spread further, but the spots remained. The affected leaves will not recover, but if the plant is given good conditions, the new leaves will be healthy.

The difference between dropsy (edema) and other diseases, root rot is that the plant is not depressed, it grows noticeably, and the spots themselves in small areas affect 1-3 leaves on the bush. Leaves with dropsy do not turn yellow, do not dry out and do not fall off!

Treatment and prevention: Adjust watering, do not flood, after heavy watering and when compacting the soil in a pot, loosen the ground. Make up the soil with a high proportion of draining, loosening particles - at least 1/5 or 1/4 of the volume of the pot.

Downy mildew (Peronosporosis)

The causative agents are fungi of the genera Peronospora, Plasmopara, Pseudoperonospora, Mildew. The disease can affect any indoor plants, but the disease is quite rare.

Symptoms: on the upper side of the leaves, yellow, then brown spots of irregular shape are formed, with a false powdery rose of cucumbers, the spots are angular (the specifics of the leaf structure). Gradually, necrosis occurs in these places, and the spots become brown. On the lower side of the leaves - at the beginning of the disease, a light gray coating from the conidial sporulation of the pathogen that came to the surface of the leaf through the stomata, then this coating gradually turns black. Diseased leaves turn yellow, become wrinkled or corrugated, wither and dry out. The causative agent with a strong degree of damage can penetrate into the vascular system, which is noticeable on the cut in the form of darkened vessels (mycelium and spores).

The disease predominates in heavy acidic soils. Exacerbates the spread of high humidity and poor ventilation. The source of infection is undisinfected soil and seeds.

Prevention

Maintaining low humidity, regular airing, thinning and cleaning the bushes. Change of soil and its disinfection. If signs of the disease are already detected, avoid spraying and watering the leaves when watering.

Seed preparation for sowing:

immersion in hot water at 50°C for 20 minutes, followed by rapid cooling in cold water for 2-3 minutes
soaking in a seed treater, for example, Maxim preparation

Control measures

Removal of diseased leaves and severely affected branches. You can use preparations containing copper: oxychom, cuproxate, 1% solution, ordan. These fungicides are more available (cheap and effective) for the treatment of horticultural and horticultural plants. You can get more modern preparations: quadris, bravo - but they are not sold in small packages, they are intended only for agriculture (in cans and bottles), gardeners usually buy them in collective purchases.

For a simple grower, fungicides are available:

topaz 4 ml per 10 liters of water
abiga-peak 50 g suspension per 10 l of water
oxychom 15-20 g per 10 liters of water, three times

Start the treatment at the first sign of the disease and repeat every 7-10 days, especially carefully treat the underside of the leaves. It is necessary to carry out at least 3-4 treatments.

Preparations: pure flowers, fast, rayok are ineffective against downy mildew.

powdery mildew

A common plant disease caused by fungi of the species Podosphaera fuliginea, Erysiphe cichoracearum and Oidium - powdery mildew on oidium grapes.

Symptoms: at the beginning of the disease, small mealy spots appear on the flowers and leaves. They are easily erased, but then reappear and increase in size, becoming a rich gray color. Gradually, the mycelium thickens and becomes almost brown. Powdery coating can be on both sides of the sheet. The leaves gradually dry up, the buds and flowers crumble, the growth of the plant stops. The most favorable conditions for the development of the disease are high humidity - about 60-80% and warm air within 15-26°C.

From domestic plants, powdery mildew most often affects: laurel, Saintpaulias, gloxinia, roses, gerberas, Kalanchoe, etc.

Prevention

To prevent powdery mildew of indoor plants and flowers, pollination with sulfur can be carried out 3-4 times during the summer. Overfeeding plants with nitrogenous fertilizers, especially during the budding period, increases the risk of powdery mildew. On the contrary, top dressing with phosphorus and potash fertilizers increases the resistance to the powdery mildew pathogen. You should also ventilate the room more often, avoiding cold drafts. Pay attention to the bushes and trees that grow under your windows, if they show signs of a disease, you constantly need to be on the alert - the spores of the fungus are easily carried by the wind.

In addition to sulfur treatment, preventive spraying with whey (backwash) can be carried out. Ordinary whole milk will do, but whey is preferable (less traces on the leaves), you need to dilute with water in a ratio of 1: 3 and spray the plants. For prevention, repeat after 2 weeks.

Fighting powdery mildew at home

If powdery mildew has got on indoor flowers, and violets (Saintpaulias), potted gerberas, indoor roses are especially susceptible, then you can use the same means as for garden plants, except for highly toxic ones (bayleton), but preference should be given to fungicides such as topaz, fast.

You can use the preparations Chistotsvet, Skor, Rayok - they are all available in small packaging, contain difenoconazole, dilute 2 ml per 5 liters of water. For fruit trees, vegetables and berries, dilute 2 g per 10 liters of water, maximum 4 treatments: the first - on a green cone, the rest - after 12-14 days, stop treatments 20 days before harvesting.

It is safe enough to spray powdery mildew at home with a solution of soda ash and copper sulfate: dilute 10 g of soda ash and 2 g of soap (household, tar) in 1 liter of water, dissolve 2 g of copper sulfate separately in a glass of water. Pour the copper solution into the soda solution, add water to a liquid volume of 2 liters and spray the plants.

If you heard from someone a recipe for fighting powdery mildew with antibiotics, do not try to repeat it, penicillins, tetracyclines and other antibiotics do not work on fungal infections, in last resort, will help from bacteriosis, but no more.

You can use drugs such as Topaz, Vectra, Hom, Oksikhom, Bordeaux liquid (1%). How to get rid of powdery mildew on gooseberries, currants, roses and other garden crops - read more:.

Spraying with a solution of iodine helps as a preventive measure and treatment: dilute 1 ml of an alcohol pharmaceutical tincture of iodine in 1 liter of water. Roses can be increased in concentration - dilute 1 ml per 400 ml of water.

Septoria

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Septoria.

Symptoms: dark brown or dark gray spots with a yellowish border (on anthurium) or, as on azaleas, small reddish or reddish-yellow spots that gradually increase. Then blackening appears on the spots in the center - the fruiting organs of the fungus, which can even overwinter on the leaves at sub-zero temperatures and the disease will begin to spread in the spring. Some forms of septoria have different manifestations (depending on the type of plant):

Pathogen Septoria albopunctata - looks like small 2-5 mm reddish-purple or brown spots with a gray center. With the development of the disease, the spots increase, and in the center of some of them you can see small dark brown or black spores of the fungus. Over time, the spots merge, turn brown, and the leaf dries out. Ideal conditions for the development of the disease are high humidity and temperatures in the range of 28-31 °.
The causative agent Septoria populi - the so-called white spot, first causes the formation of small whitish or gray spots with a brown rim around the edge, round or oval.

Prevention

Removal of leaves with suspicious spots, disinfection of the earth, seed dressing. With signs of a manifestation of the disease, it is necessary to stop spraying the leaves, improve air circulation (ventilation).

Treatment of septoria

When the spots have already appeared and spread further, it is necessary to spray using chemicals: among them, popular in gardening, a 1% solution (100 g of copper sulfate + 100 g of lime per 10 liters of water, dilute strictly according to the instructions), a solution of copper oxychloride (hom , oksikhom), copper sulfate (100 g per 10 liters of water). As well as:

colloidal sulfur 50-100 g per 10 liters of water
strobi in a system with other fungicides, 4 g per 10 liters of water
abiga-peak 40-50 g per 10 liters of water
fungicides: pure flower, fast, rayok, discor, keeper - any dilute 4 ml per 5 liters of water
Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Repeat spraying after 7-10 days.

Gray rot

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Botrytis Botrytis.

Symptoms: most often the affected areas are on the stems in the form of a fluffy grayish-olive coating. With further development, the disease passes to the leaves, ovaries of flowers and fruits.

Over time, the lesion takes the form of dry rot with concentric spots. After a few days, the spot grows and rings the stem. For the first week, there is no sporulation of the fungus on the spot, it turns pale in the center to a straw color, blurry ring-shaped stripes become visible. Gray rot looks like gray loose cotton wool or mold. Inside the stem, tissue necrosis develops, while the vessels die, and the movement of water stops. Escape above this zone withers.

Prevention

Prevention measures include soil disinfection during transplantation (heating in the oven or microwave), regular ventilation of rooms, removal of dying leaves and thinning of seedlings, good lighting. Avoid waterlogging the soil, especially when kept cool, if the flowers are on the balcony in early spring or late summer - autumn. When transplanting, trichodermin, barrier, barrier or phytosporin preparations can be applied to the soil (spill the soil).

Control measures

At the first sign of the disease, remove diseased leaves and inflorescences. Sprinkle the affected area with charcoal powder, chalk or wood ash. You can make a paste from the preparation of trichodermin (moisten a small amount of powder with water) and smear the affected areas in the same way. Spraying with a solution of topsin-M (0.1%) or a solution of phytosporin (dilute to the color of tea). In case of severe damage, spray:

(0,2%)
copper-soap solution: 0.2% copper sulfate and 2% laundry soap
fungicides: pure flower, fast, rayok - dilute any 4 ml per 5 liters of water

Repeated treatments are carried out after 7-10 days.

sooty fungus

Appears in the form of a dry sooty film on aukuba, buksus, laurels. It is caused by the fungus Capnopodium, which settles on the secretions of aphids, whiteflies, and mealybugs. By itself, the plaque is not dangerous for the plant, but it clogs the stomata on the leaves, thereby disrupting the respiration process. The plant slows down growth and weakens.

Control measures: timely spraying from pests that form sweet secretions (aphids, scale insects, thrips). After curing diseases, wipe the affected plants with a sponge dipped in soapy water, rinse with warm clean water, treat with phytosporin: take a liquid or paste and dilute in a glass of water until the color of weak tea. Spray the leaves.

Sometimes a sooty fungus settles on the surface of leaves affected by other fungi, carefully examine the nature of the spots, put the plant in quarantine.

leaf rust

The causative agent is rust fungi, for example, the genus Phragmidium or Puccinia.

Symptoms: are expressed in the appearance of orange-brown tubercles on the upper surface of the leaf, sometimes yellow or red round spots. On the reverse side of the leaf, pustules are clearly visible - pads (like warts) of an oval or round shape. Gradually, the spots develop into stripes, the leaves turn yellow and fall off.

Prevention

The disease is provoked by uneven watering and high humidity, but even with good care infection is possible at home through cut garden flowers or with new store-bought potted plants, such as gerberas. The infection can also get with garden soil, because rust often affects apple or pear trees.

Control measures

Remove affected leaves and branches. Apply fungicide spray:

abiga-peak 50 g per 10 liters of water
bayleton 1 g per 1 liter of water
Vectra 2-3 ml per 10 liters of water
10 g per 1 liter of water
oxychom 15-20 g per 10 liters of water
ordan 20 g per 5 liters of water
strobe
4 ml per 10 liters of water
hom 40 g per 10 liters of water

Repeat the treatment 2-3 times in 10 days. Biological products do not help against rust: phytosporin, bactofit, etc.

Phyllosticosis (brown spot)

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Phyllosticta. Of the domestic flowers, hibiscus, roses, orchids, etc. are susceptible to the disease.

Symptoms: Small dark reddish or dark purple dots first appear on affected plants. They enlarge and turn into brown spots with a purple, almost black border around the edge. The middle of the spot becomes thinner, dries up and falls out in plants with non-leather leaves, holes are formed. When viewed through a magnifying glass, black rounded spores can be seen on the brown areas of the spot. The disease spreads with the wind, undisinfected soil, water drops.

Orchid phyllosticosis manifests itself in small spots about 2 mm in diameter, dark brown, slightly depressed, holes do not form, the disease is often called "black spotting", since the leaf is dotted with small spots like a rash - the spots do not merge into large ones, remain loose, but the leaf turns yellow, and then the spores of the fungus become noticeable. The disease spreads quite quickly, as orchids are often in an atmosphere of high humidity.

Prevention

Compliance with the rules of care and hygiene - timely watering if necessary, but not more often, pour water only under the root, water should not fall on the root collar, in the axils of the leaves. Use only warm water for irrigation, without chlorine and salts (iron, calcium). Make sure plants get enough light, weakened chlorosis leaves are more susceptible to infection. Ventilate the house or rooms, avoiding drafts. Ventilation must be very good - an indicator of proper ventilation - the absence of mold in the bathroom, the perimeter of the window frame, the corners of the rooms. Observe the temperature regime, take into account the species requirements of orchids and other plants - a deviation from the norm and the usual care weakens the immune system.

Treatment of phyllosticosis

Vectra fungicide - dilute 2-3 ml of the drug in 10 liters of water
abiga-peak - 50 g per 5 liters of water
strobi - 4 g per 10 liters of water
oxychom 20 g per 10 l of water
fungicides: pure flower, fast, rayok, discor, keeper - any dilute 1 ml per 1 liter of water
Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Spraying at the first signs of the disease or prophylactic, then subsequent with an interval of 7-10 days. In some plants, you can safely remove the affected leaves (for example, in hibiscus), in orchids, do not rush to cut the affected areas to healthy tissue, this can further weaken the plants. You can cut the leaf only when it has already turned yellow. The rest is treated by spraying.

root rot

This is a group of diseases caused by a number of pathogenic fungi of the genera: Pythium, Rhizoctonia, Phytophthora and others. All these diseases sooner or later appear on the crown, tops of plants, but infection begins through the root system. If the pathogen is serious, and the plant is young (cutting, seedling, seedling), then the leaves do not even have time to start turning yellow - the roots and the lower part of the stem quickly rot.

Orchids, saintpaulias, cacti and succulents are most susceptible to root rot. The reason is a violation of agricultural technology.

The black leg is the scourge of seedlings, manifested in the decay of the lower part of the shoot, the cutting. Rot is the most typical - blackening, softening of tissues. A very part of the black leg affects when the soil is waterlogged, poor aeration, if the clods of earth are so dense that an anaerobic environment is constantly around the roots. The source of infection is unsterilized earth mixtures, inventory, pots and seedling boxes after diseased plants.

late blight

This is a type of root rot. In this case, the plant first slows down growth, fades somewhat, the leaves lose color, become pale, only then the roots rot and the plant dies. The first impression with this disease is that the plant does not have enough water, but after watering the turgor is not restored, and the leaves fade even more. In plants with dense leaves, the leaves do not fade, but are covered with extensive brown spots that start from the central vein.

Prevention

Choose the right soil for your plants, add more porous, draining materials to structure the soil. Do not use fine river sand or sand from a children's sandbox (quarry) - it cements the earth mixture! Use small pebbles with a particle size of 3-4 mm, such as can be bought in specialized departments and aquarium stores, or sift river pebbles. When planting, add a drug to the plant pot

Make sure that the soil does not become waterlogged, water after an acceptable degree of drying: if it is indicated that watering is plentiful, it means that the soil in the pot should have time to dry by about 1/2 or 1/3 of the upper part of the pot by the next watering. If you dip your finger into the ground, you will find that the soil is dry on top, and the inside of the pot is slightly wetter (cooler) - then you can water.

If moderate watering is recommended for the plant, then the soil should dry out completely - if you dip your finger into the pot, it should also be dry inside (the finger does not feel that it is cooler, wetter). Of course, you should not stick your fingers into the ground before each watering. Just wait for the soil to dry on top and wait another 2-3 days before watering so that it has time to dry in depth. And if it suddenly gets colder and the temperature drops, you may need to wait even longer - 5-7 days before the next watering.

To propagate indoor plants, cut off only healthy cuttings and leaves. Be sure to sterilize the ground for planting cuttings, especially if you are breeding plants that are very susceptible to late blight and root rot (for example, Gesneria, gardenia, shefflera). Old, already used pots in which the plants died must be scalded with boiling water.

Before planting, soak the seeds in a disinfectant, use, for example, the drug maxim.

Control measures

With a large development of root rot, when a significant part of the roots died off, and most of the shoots drooped, lost their elasticity, treatment is useless. If the tip of the petiole or twig has blackened on rooting, it can be cut off, drop phytosporin into water and put on rooting again.

If the plant shows signs of wilting, while the soil is damp, it is urgent to remove the plant from the pot. Rinse the root system, remove rot. If healthy roots are still preserved, treat them (soak for a few minutes) in a fungicide solution:

Alirin B - 2 tablets per 10 liters of water
Hamair - 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
ordan 5 g per 1 liter of water
3 ml per 2 liters of water
baktofit 10 ml per 5 l of water
oxychom 10 g per 5 l of water
hom 20 g per 5 liters of water
Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

spotting

This is a whole group of diseases that are both fungal and bacterial in nature.

Pathogens - fungi genera Ascochyta, Colletotrichum, Phyllosticta, Pestalotia, Septoria, Vermicularia and others. Spotting is a disease whose causative agent is difficult to identify, it can be anthracnose, septoria, phyllostictosis, ascochitosis, but the specificity of the spots is not pronounced. At the same time, brown spots appear on the leaves of the plant, which grow in size with the spread of the disease, merge and affect the entire leaf. If the plant is strong enough, resistant to diseases, or very well cared for, the spots grow slowly and the leaves dry out also slowly.

Prevention of spotting

Contribute to the development of diseases violations of conditions of detention. This waterlogging is especially aggravated by hypothermia of the root system (after watering with cold water or when transporting home from the store during the cold season). Spotting can also develop in warm, humid conditions, especially with poor air circulation and planting in dense clay soil.

Avoid large plant crowds and excessive watering. Regularly ventilate the room, greenhouses and provide good lighting. For prevention, water the plants with a solution of the drug or bactofit. Can be added to pots when planting tablets of the drug.

Control measures

In garden conditions, any plant debris with stains from dead plants should be collected and destroyed. Prune affected leaves and branches from houseplants. Spray with fungicides that can deal with most fungal infections.

abiga peak 50 g per 10 liters of water
acrobat MC 20 g per 5 l of water
oxychom 20 g per 10 l of water
hom 40 g per 10 liters of water
alirin-B 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
Vectra 3 ml per 10 liters of water
1% solution of Bordeaux liquid (100 g of copper sulfate + 100 g of lime per 10 liters of water diluted)
copper sulfate: 100 g per 10 liters of water
Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

At home, indoor flowers from spotting should be tried to be treated with more affordable and simple means: use Chistotsvet, Skor, Rayok - they are all available in small packaging, contain the same active ingredient - difenoconazole, you need to dilute 2 ml per 5 liters of water. Spray the leaves with the solution, repeat after 2 weeks. Add zircon to the solution of these fungicides Chistotsvet, Skor, Rayok (6 drops per 1 liter of solution).

Red burn

The causative agent is a fungus of the genus Stangospora Staganospora. A disease characteristic of hippeastrums and some bulbous.

Symptoms: red narrow spots appear on the leaves and peduncles, on which spore-bearing crusts subsequently form, the scales of the bulbs completely turn red. In a diseased plant, the deformation of leaves and flowers begins, flowering does not begin or stops, the bulbs rot.

Treatment

Treatment of bulbs in fungicides. You can use the drug maxim (soaking the bulbs), but it can cause burns of the primordia of the leaves and peduncle - their tips have a very thin epidermis. The third photo - burns from the drug maxim, although the bulbs are cured, the burns will remain.

You can treat the red burn of hippeastrum with other fungicides:

fundahol (benomyl) 1 g per 1 liter of water
Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water
oxychom 4 g per 1 liter of water

black spot

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Rhytisma, Dothidella.

Symptoms:

Rhytisma acerinum - causes the formation of large rounded spots, initially yellowish and blurry. Then black dots appear on them, which gradually merge and form black shiny stroma (nodules), surrounded by a yellowish border. Sometimes there may be no yellowing around the black stroma.
Rhytisma salicinum - causes similar lesions, only the spots are more convex, more angular in shape, large and small.
Rhytisma punctatum - causes the appearance of small, dotted or teardrop-shaped, shiny black and bulging stroma.
Dothidella ulmi - causes the formation of grayish-black, rounded stroma; they are convex, at first shiny, later - rough, like warts.

A combination of conditions contributes to the spread of the disease: high humidity, shading and high temperatures.

Control measures

Spraying with fungicides:

abiga peak 50 g per 10 liters of water
acrobat MC 20 g per 5 l of water
benomyl (foundazol) 1 g per 1 liter of water
Vectra 3 ml per 10 liters of water
oxychom 20 g per 10 l of water
hom 40 g per 10 liters of water
alirin-B 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Spraying three times in 10 days.

Tracheomycosis

Tracheomycosis is a group of diseases called vascular wilt- pathogens enter through the roots and affect the vascular system of plants, clog the lumen of blood vessels with their mycelium, release toxins, the plant does not receive water and nutrients and begins to fade.

Tracheomycoses include diseases such as:

verticillium wilt (verticillium wilt)
fusarium wilt (fusarium)
malsecco in citrus

The symptoms are very similar, all diseases are diagnosed only in the laboratory, all are incurable, they are detected at the stage when pathogenic fungi have already poisoned the vascular system, this is something like blood poisoning in animals. Particularly affected by tracheomycosis are orchids, phalaenopsis, dendrobiums, cattleyas, etc. From other indoor flowers: fuchsias, roses, balsam, begonias, geraniums; from garden: petunias, carnations, chrysanthemums, asters, dahlias. Vegetables prone to tracheomycosis: cabbage, celery, cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, lettuce, melons, potatoes, pumpkin, radishes, rhubarb.

There are also plants resistant to tracheomycosis: saintpaulia, ageratum, gypsophila, mallow, periwinkle, primrose, zinnia, asparagus, ferns, philodendrons. Of the vegetables, only corn and asparagus can resist.

In foreign practice, all tracheomycotic wilts are simply called: wilt - from wilt - to fade.

verticillium wilt

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Verticillium. It reproduces exclusively asexually - by conidia, infects plant roots and poisons xylem tissues: it grows and reproduces systemically throughout the plant.

Symptoms: in the initial stages of the disease, the lower leaves acquire a grayish-greenish color due to the development of interveinal necrosis. The leaf tissue between the veins turns brown and dries out. Then wilting begins, most of the leaves, starting from the bottom, turn yellow, curl and dry. On the section of the stem, browning of the vessels is noticeable. Vessel lumens are filled with thin multicellular mycelium. Plants lag behind in growth, develop poorly, then die. Sometimes the disease manifests itself on the plant in the drying up and death of individual branches of the bush. If the conditions are favorable, then the disease passes to other branches and the whole plant dies rather quickly. If there are unfavorable conditions for the development of the fungus, then the disease can last for months and part of the plant looks healthy, and part dies off.

The pathogen persists in the soil in the form of microslerotia for several years. The optimum temperature for germination of sclerotia is 25-27°C, humidity 60-70%. The development of the fungus is most likely on soil with a neutral pH value = 7-7.5. The spores of the fungus germinate and penetrate the conductive tissue, where mycelium develops, causing clogging of blood vessels. Since there is a gradual clogging of the vessels from the bottom up, the wilting of the leaves begins with the lower leaves and gradually covers the entire plant.

Prevention

Do not use garden soil for indoor plants without pre-treatment: pour on a baking sheet with a layer of 5 cm, heat at maximum temperature for 20 minutes. Disinfect seeds by heating and disinfectants (for example, fungicide maxim)

Control measures

Chemical agents, due to the peculiar biology of the pathogen (development in the soil and distribution through conductive vessels), are ineffective. Treatment is possible only in the initial stages, by spraying with foundationazole, vectra (3 ml per 10 l of water) or topsin-M at a concentration of 0.2%.

Fusarium (fusarium wilt)

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Fusarium.

Fusarium develops only on weakened plants, primarily in dying areas. The course of the disease can take place according to the type of tracheomycosis wilt or with rotting of the roots. Plants are affected at any age. The fungus is found in the soil and enters the plant through soil and wounds, with water from natural sources, non-sterile tools during grafting or pruning. The increased humidity of air and soil contributes to the spread of the disease.

Symptoms: In young plants, the disease manifests itself in the form of rotting of the roots and root neck. In these places, the tissues turn brown, the stem becomes thinner, the leaves turn yellow. In affected plants, the tops of the shoots wither (loss of turgor), and then the entire shoot. This happens, as in the case of infection with verticillosis, due to blockage of blood vessels by toxins and enzymes secreted by fungi. Therefore, the darkening of the vessels is also visible on the transverse section. But sometimes tracheomycosis appears only on part of the crown, the rest remains healthy for the time being - then the bush or tree is oppressed, individual branches droop. If you cut off (the cut is clean without darkening) cuttings from healthy branches during the time, you can root and get a healthy plant.

The rate of the course of the disease depends on how favorable the conditions are for the development of the fungus. With high soil and air humidity, as well as temperatures above 18 ° C, the disease can destroy the entire plant in a few days. If the humidity is lowered, then the disease can become chronic, then the plant slowly fades within 3-4 weeks.

Control measures

Removal and destruction of the plant along with a clod of earth. Disinfection of pots with a 5% solution of copper sulfate, bleach, or at least scald with boiling water.

If wilting has just begun, then you can try to treat the plant with fungicides:

Vectra 3 ml per 10 liters of water
benomyl (foundazol) 1 g per 1 liter of water for orchids can be 1 g per 100 ml
alirin B 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Spraying three times, with an interval of 7-10 days.

How to treat orchids: get rid of the old substrate (throw away or boil the bark for at least half an hour). Cut off rotten roots. Prepare a fungicide solution, and carefully spray the root system and leaves. Leave to dry. Plant in a fresh substrate (large pieces of bark, foam, cork). Do not spray, water by dipping as needed for a short time (5 minutes is sufficient). It is advisable to keep diseased orchids at a temperature of 23-24 ° C, without drafts, with very intense but diffused lighting (possible under lamps).

The soil for large plantings (growing seedlings and transplanting tub plants) can be prepared by shedding it properly, with a solution of potassium permanganate (pink), Maxim, or applying trichodermin. When working, sterilize tools - a knife, scissors and even garter material (wire, thread) with alcohol.

The date palm, like all ornamental plants, is susceptible to a variety of diseases. Date palm diseases arise from improper care of it. We will consider the main diseases of the date palm, their causes and methods of treatment.

Date palm diseases: causes and methods of treatment

A list of the main diseases and problems of the date palm, ways to eliminate them and the causes of their appearance.

Old and young date palm leaves begin to dry out, brown spots appear on the outer and inner sides of the leaf plate. Disease: a palm tree was struck by a scale insect. Reason: dry air in the room. Elimination: the date palm must be isolated from other plants, wipe its leaves with a cotton swab dipped in soapy water. Then, to eliminate the disease, the date palm is sprayed with "Aktara" or an actellic solution (2 ml per 1 liter of water). The frequency of treatment is 1 time in 5-7 days, the duration of treatment is 4 times.

The tips of the date palm leaves turn yellow. Reason: lack of moisture in the soil and low humidity in the room. Perhaps the soil in the pot is poor in nutrients. Ways to eliminate the disease: at high temperatures, carry out frequent spraying of the palm tree, increase the amount of watering. Use only purified or settled water, and only at room temperature.

New shoots began to dry up on the date palm. They are easily removed from the socket and their base began to rot. The cause of the disease: overmoistening of the soil, inaccurate spraying, in which water enters the palm rosette. The date palm can rot due to lack of light and constant waterlogging. Ways to treat the disease: provide the plant with enough light, reduce watering and spraying. Sprinkle places of rotting stems and leaves with tetracycline or foundationazole.

Date palm grows slowly indoors. Reason: soil depletion or the root system has outgrown the volume of the pot. The latter can be determined by carefully removing the palm tree from the pot. The root system stuck tightly around the walls of the pot. Ways to solve the problem: transplant the palm tree by transshipment, without disturbing the earthen ball around the roots, into a larger pot. Water the palm tree with Zykron solution once a week.

The lower leaves of the date palm dry. Causes of illness: age. The lower leaves of the date palm dry with age. They are removed as they dry. It is not normal if the young shoots of a palm tree or its rosette begin to dry and hurt.

White spots on date palm leaves that are easy to remove. The cause of the disease: mealybug or fungal disease. Treatment of date palm disease: you need to moisten a swab in alcohol and wipe the leaves with it. In parallel, treat the plant with anti-cocidal agents.

brown spots on leaves. Cause of illness: dry indoor air or spraying used cold water. You can increase the humidity in the room by placing a container with wet expanded clay next to the palm tree. You can not put a date palm near heating appliances.

Exotic plants are often classified as sickly and are the favorite food of many insects and pests. The unpretentious nature of palms may not save you from trouble, and everything possible should be done to save the plant. The soreness of domestic palms cannot be called a rarity. Often this is a consequence of improper care of the bush. To begin with, you should create optimal conditions for growing indoor palms, which should be close to tropical. The heat-loving plant does not tolerate dry air, which is the most common cause of palm death.

Foliage dies off in any plants, and this process is natural. However, only a palm tree in places where scars form will have a trunk. The more effort is made to keep the foliage on the palm tree as long as possible, the better the plant will feel.

Timely preventive measures aimed at protecting the plant from diseases and pests will help improve the quality of the existing greenhouse. After the manifestation of ailments, the cause should be identified and eliminated as soon as possible, while the plant can still be saved.

Not only garden, but also indoor plants are susceptible to various diseases. Diseases are considered the result of improper care or the creation of unfavorable conditions for their growth and development. The reasons are many, among the most common are:

incorrectly selected pot;
low quality soil mixture;
excess moisture;
excessive fertilizer;
lack of nutrients;
non-compliance with the temperature regime;
dry air in the room.

Most diseases are not transmitted to other plants. There are cases when bushes grown in greenhouses are not able to adapt to living conditions, which leads to leaf drop and lack of development. All this indicates non-compliance with the requirements regarding the provision of flowers with the necessary conditions. Remove the plant from the pot immediately and inspect the root system. If damage is observed, then the plant is unlikely to be saved. An experiment is carried out experimentally. The plant is transplanted into a container with a different substrate, after which observations are made for several weeks. If the plant continues to dry, then the reason lies not in the soil.

Insufficient micronutrients in the soil or lack of sufficient light in the selected area can also be checked. If there was a lot of light, he may need some shade. A well-installed drainage system will help to avoid many problems in the future. If this is absent, the plant should be immediately transplanted in accordance with all the rules. Not all representatives of the home flora can survive frequent temperature fluctuations. Plants are also afraid of drafts. This factor is considered decisive if "exotics" are grown. For irrigation, only settled water at room temperature is used.

During the heating season, indoor air is especially dry, which causes visible or invisible damage to plants. The lack of preventive manipulations can destroy flowers.

Common ailments. Fungal lesions

Plants that have been improperly cared for are subject to damage. Palm trees, camellias, orchids and anthuriums suffer the most. The characteristic signs of the onset of the lesion are spots on the foliage, which are difficult not to notice. Provided that no work is carried out to save the plants, the spots will grow rapidly, after which the leaves will begin to die off. The affected areas should not be watered with water, and all affected greens must be removed.

Black

This disease is fungal and is a blackish coating, slightly sweet, which is left behind by mealybugs, whiteflies or aphids. As a symptom, it should be noted the presence of a specific plaque that is not capable of harming the palm tree. However, an abundant amount of black formations can completely cover the foliage, which will lead to a lack of direct sunlight, and subsequent wilting of the bush. To solve the problem, manually remove the accumulated plaque with a wet cloth and rinse the affected areas with warm, boiled water. To avoid this, timely treatment of the bush with protective compounds should be carried out.

root rot

Not only palm trees, but also saintpaulias, begonias and succulents are not resistant to such a disease. As a symptom, the appearance of yellowness should be noted not only on the foliage, but also on the stems of the palm tree. After that, the plant begins to wither. Then the affected areas begin to darken rapidly, which is a consequence of the fact that the plant is dying. The disease is considered the result of the beginning of the process of rotting of the root system due to waterlogged soil. It is possible to overcome the disease only in the early stages and only by removing all the affected roots with a sharp object (knife). After the manipulations, the palm tree is transplanted into a new container with soil prepared in advance. The pot is placed in a dark corner, excluding contact with direct sunlight. When new shoots appear, the container is transferred to a brighter place. Watering is carried out frequent, but not plentiful, so as not to overmoisten the new substrate.

Dropsy

The disease is common and is considered a consequence of excessive waterlogging of the substrate in combination with insufficient lighting. permanent place pot. The disease can be recognized by detecting specific cork growths on the underside of the foliage. Affected areas are subject to complete removal, since their condition will not improve. The pot moves to a more lit area, and the frequency of watering is reduced. The foliage will grow back, but this time, healthy.

spotting

The cause can be both bacteria and fungi. Appears as unusual brownish spots on the surface of the foliage. If the problem is completely ignored, small spots will merge into a single whole. The defeat of the leaf will lead to its death. To combat the disease, a fungicide-based solution is used. All affected leaves are burned, after which the plant should be stopped spraying for the next few weeks. Watering also stops at this time.

Withering seedlings

Such lesions are classified as fungal, killing the root system of seedlings and plant stems. One symptom is a change in the structure of palm rhizomes, however, for this, the bush should be removed from the container and the roots thoroughly washed. Such lesions are not treatable, but the problem can be avoided. It is enough to follow the rules regarding planting seeds in clean or pre-sterilized (calcined) soil. Watering is not frequent and not plentiful. When a disease is detected, all affected individuals are removed, and healthy ones are moved to a cool and well-ventilated area.

stem rot

After the first symptoms of the disease appear, the fungus begins to spread rapidly, which inevitably leads to the death of the bush. Then you should not only remove the infected palm tree, but also throw away the soil and the pot in which it was located. The degree of infection of the plant should be determined by the crown or branches, which begin to become soft, which is the result of the decomposition process that has begun. The plant, in this case, is already completely affected. Even in the initial stages of the disease, there is practically no chance to save the bush. As a preventive measure, you should follow the rules for caring for such plants and not overdo it with watering. The temperature regime must be appropriate. Regular airing of the room is also recommended.

Rust

On the upper side of the leaf, the surface begins to become covered with orange or brown spots, which are the result of rust damage to the palm. When the voids are removed, light spots form in their place. If the house has a large greenhouse, then you should not take risks and try to save the flower. You should immediately get rid of the plant along with the pot. The rest of the bushes are treated with a fungicide-based solution.

Gray rot

A similar type of disease is found in many young plants and is expressed as a darkening of the base and rhizome, as a result of plant damage by a fungus. It is considered a consequence of excessive soil moisture, which is a common cause when transplanting a small cutting. Too dense soil is also the cause of the fungus, which loves moisture, which does not move well from poorly drained soil. The infected shoot is removed, after which a new one is planted. Young people should be watched. If the plant is covered with glass or film, then the soil is still excessively wet.

Powdery mildew downy

For normal development, it will require moist and at the same time cool soil. It affects both individual plant species and groups. Often found in gloxinia, palm trees, calceolaria, primrose. As a symptom, an indelible white cloth will appear on the inside of the leaf. Spraying with water should be stopped immediately. The disease is hidden in the foliage itself, in its structure, so further spraying with various drugs will not bring any effect.

powdery mildew

The development of the disease will require a dry and warm climate. On each type of plant, there will be different types of fungi. When powdery mildew appears, for example, on a violet, it will no longer pass to a palm tree. Powdery mildew prefers to appear on plants such as:

Appeared white plaque is easily removed with a wet cloth. It is erased from foliage, flowers, shoots and buds. Provided that the element of the plant is affected, it begins to blacken rapidly and eventually disappears. On plants of the same group, the fungus moves quickly. As one of the ways to fight, you should immediately rearrange the infected plant, remove all affected areas from it and treat all plants without exception with special antifungal drugs.

Intermission

Moist and warm conditions are needed for infection to develop. Afraid of anthracnose should be the owners of greenhouses, in which the most optimal conditions for the development of the disease. As a symptom, you should pay attention to the dark spots that appear on the foliage, which turn into full-fledged smudges. The fight against the disease is ongoing and results in the implementation of regular and abundant spraying of damaged areas with fungicide-based formulations. The next 2-3 weeks, watering is stopped, as well as spraying with plain water.

Indoor palm pests

For pests, the juice of a healthy plant is considered nutritious. In the process of absorbing palm sap, the plant is deprived of nutrients and begins to wither. With the timely detection and treatment of palm trees, the bush will recover and continue to develop. The presence of pests may indicate violations of the conditions for keeping domestic palm trees and the lack of acceptable humidity and temperature indicators for them. Drafts and violation of daylight hours also negatively affect the general condition of the bush.

Ticks

These pests have a black color, and the body itself has an oblong shape. Thrips are decorated with two small wings. Warm and dry air in a poorly ventilated area is considered optimal for the development of pests. Insects feed on palm sap. Over time, the foliage begins to turn pale, loses its external gloss, then becomes covered with dark spots. After a short period of time, the foliage completely falls off. For spraying, any specialized composition is suitable.

It should be noted that insects are classified as tenacious. They are able to live not only on the plant, but also on the window, floor and surface of the pot.

The main reason for the occurrence of both pests and diseases is not following the rules regarding the growth, development and care of indoor palm trees. Creating unfavorable conditions for indoor palms will affect their ability to withstand attacks from harmful microorganisms. Infectious diseases take place in the case of damage to the bush by fungal microorganisms. As a protective agent, it is possible to use insecticides, fungicides. However, without correcting their own mistakes in the process of growing room palm history may repeat itself.

Ways to protect indoor palms

Harmful microorganisms can be dealt with simultaneously in several ways. The most effective methods include mechanical protection, which is based on the use of various chemicals. The use of protection of various types:

biological	Chemical	Mechanical	Biotechnical
Whiteflies will deal with riders.	Residues should not be stored with other detergents. Empty containers are also thrown into special containers.	The upper, above-ground areas of the palm tree are washed regularly with warm water and a small amount of the selected detergent composition. The roots are wrapped in dense polyethylene for the duration of the event.	Spray for foliage shine is similar in composition to aerosols, which include oils that block the access of oxygen to green elements, forming a film.
	For storage, use special containers provided by manufacturers.
	The funds should not be accessible to animals and children.		Spider mites can be destroyed by hot steam, which is available in saunas and baths.
	Protective gloves and a spray respirator will be needed.
	Plant processing is carried out on the street.		Insect traps are yellow plates, which, by their appearance attract insects and flying pests.
Spider mites are opposed by predatory representatives of mites.	Breaks are taken between treatments, according to the attached recommendations.	All affected areas and patients should be removed in a timely manner.
Gall midges are bred against aphids. It is also possible to use a rider and golden eyes.	The indicated dosage must also be adhered to.	Pests should be washed off with clean water (shower).

Preventive measures

Failure to follow the standard rules regarding the care of indoor palm trees can weaken a healthy bush. Thus, they become easy prey for various pests and diseases. The choice of capacity, soil and location of the plant should be approached with all care. If it was not possible to avoid infection, it is necessary to determine the disease as soon as possible, find the source and eliminate it. Comprehensive measures should also be taken to save the bush if it is still possible. Proper care can become a guarantee of the health and longevity of a room palm tree, as well as become a protection against pests and fungal infections. It should be noted that dry air will be to the taste of many insects, so this should be avoided.

Preventive measures:

The use of specialized formulations and fertilizers will help strengthen thin and fragile foliage.
The soil must be clean. All dry and diseased branches are immediately removed.
The density of the arrangement of flowers plays an important role.
During the winter, the air needs forced humidification, as the batteries contribute to the rapid drying of the oxygen in the premises.

Proper palm care will minimize the risk of plant disease. If it was not possible to prevent the defeat, then measures should be taken immediately.

Finally, some video information about the features of palm care:

There are a variety of diseases of indoor flowers, some of them are complex, requiring a special approach in treatment and preventive measures in the future. Rust - a disease of indoor plants - a rare, but dangerous, capable of destroying a flower. The name of this flower disease is explained by the appearance of the lesions: red and brown spots appear on the leaves of domestic plants, slightly convex and as if fleecy. Actually, it's a fungus. Treatment of home flowers affected by it is long and complicated. Be sure to reconsider the conditions in which the plant is located, and the scheme of care.

Ficus, completely infected with rust, is very difficult to cure.

Rust on plants is not so difficult to recognize, the signs of this disease are specific, they cannot be confused or missed.

First, rust appears on the leaves and on the stems of house flowers. It looks like yellow-brown or red-brown convex spots of various sizes and shapes.
The spots increase in size, swell and form pustules. The leaves of diseased plants evaporate moisture intensively, the pustules quickly dry out, crack and burst. A “rusty” powder is poured out of them, which poses a serious threat to neighboring healthy plants. These are fungal spores that quickly spread through the air throughout the flower garden.
Then the spores completely cover the entire surface of the leaf and stems, appear on the flowers. Plants change color, become brown or brown.
Then indoor flowers begin to dry and lose leaves, if treatment is not started, the plants will die.

However, even if you start taking action, it is not always possible to save indoor plants from the disease. Therefore, it is better not to allow its appearance and development.

It is important to know: at a temperature not exceeding 10 degrees above zero, the incubation period of the disease lasts up to 20 days. If the temperature is above 18 degrees, then the incubation period is reduced to 7-14 days.

Reasons for the appearance

Rust is a fungal disease, and the fungus, as you know, loves to settle where it is humid, warm and dark. From this we can conclude that rust on plants appears if they are watered too often and abundantly, not ventilated and kept in the shade, away from direct sunlight or phytolamps.

It is especially dangerous to flood indoor plants with water in winter. Many flowers in the cold season fall into a dormant state until spring, they do not need frequent watering, as well as mineral supplements. If, in addition to this, the pot is near the battery, you should not be surprised at the appearance of such a plant disease.

Over-watering houseplants can lead to rust infestation.

Also, the development of the fungus can provoke the abuse of mineral fertilizers rich in nitrogen. In winter, they are not needed at all. And during the growing season and flowering of plants, you should strictly follow the instructions and do not make too high a concentration of fertilizer.

If pots with plants are on an open terrace, veranda or balcony, then the spores of the fungus can be carried by wind or insects. Sometimes seeds are already infected with rust. It is difficult to recognize this, often impossible at all. This is one of the reasons why the seeds should be treated with potassium permanganate before sowing. As well as containers with soil in which they will land.

Which indoor plants are affected more often than others?

In principle, rust can appear on houseplants of any kind. But certain varieties of fungus love more than others. In addition, there are house flowers that are more sensitive to fungus spores, and are not able to fight it. The following ornamental crops should be protected from moisture and overheating with special care:

camellia;
fuchsia;
carnation;
cyclamen;
pelargonium;
rose flower;
geranium;
chrysanthemum.

A cameo sheet damaged by rust is no longer subject to treatment.

This fungus likes to settle on horticultural crops such as asparagus and citrus shrubs, and often it infects palm trees of various types.

Treat and prevent disease

In most cases, the flower garden suffers from rust due to the fault of the owners themselves - this means that they do not properly care for their plants. In order to prevent the formation and spread of the fungus in the spring, all flowers should be treated with a one percent solution of Bordeaux mixture.

What to do if a fungus nevertheless settled on the plant and its leaves began to rust? First of all, it is important to prevent infection of neighboring plants, even if the diseased flower can no longer be saved. Therefore, a sick flower must be immediately taken to a hotel room. Affected leaves break off every single one, even if they have only a few small specks of rust. Then they need to be burned away from the flower garden.

Bordeaux mixture is used to control rust on indoor and garden plants.

The flower itself can be treated with the same Bordeaux mixture. Or use sulfur dust. You can also prepare such a disinfectant mixture yourself:

heat 5 liters of purified water;
dissolve 200 g of green soap in water;
add 15 g of copper sulfate.

The room in which the potted plant is located must be well ventilated several times a day, and it is better to keep the window open at all times. Neither dry air nor high humidity should be allowed.

It is important to water the plant properly. The liquid should be added to the pan or to the ground, but so that the water gets under the root, and not on the leaves and flowers of the plant. If top dressing is used, then preference should be given to preparations containing potassium and phosphorus.

Copper sulfate is a component of a spray preparation that you can prepare yourself.

Beginner gardeners often confuse rust with any red spots on the leaves of plants and begin to spray the flower garden with various fungicides. As a result, many plants die from an improperly applied remedy. Therefore, if there is a suspicion that a plant is affected by a fungus, you should either familiarize yourself with high-quality photos of the symptoms and manifestations of the disease, or invite a knowledgeable person to inspect the plants and diagnose.

Rust can also manifest differently in different colors and cultures. On some flowers, it develops faster, on others it grows very slowly, for weeks and months. In any case, you need to treat the plant, the most important points in this process are to ensure a constant supply of fresh air and remove the affected parts of the flower. Treatment with a disinfectant solution is recommended to be repeated 10-12 days after the first spraying.