Clivia reproduction. Ways to propagate clivia at home
Clivia or kaffir lily belongs to the Amaryllis family. This perennial flower wild nature found in South Africa, and today only three varieties of this plant are known.
Due to its decorative qualities, unpretentiousness and ease of care, clivia is very popular in gardening. This beauty attracts with its appearance both during flowering and during its absence. If you decide to grow clivia at home, caring for it will be a real pleasure.
Popular types of clivia in home floriculture
Clivia is a unique flower that combines the brightness of bell-shaped flowers and the juiciness of dark green leaves growing at an angle of 180 °, forming a kind of pyramid. Clivia grows leaves slowly (5-10 pieces per summer), but does not shed them for a long time.
Clivia blooms for about a month, dissolving the buds in turn, which makes it seem that the plant blooms for a long time.
The decorative form is a stunted plant, while wild flowers reach gigantic sizes. Not all forms of clivia are suitable for growing at home, only certain types will harmoniously fit into the interior of the room. 
Did you know? Clivia patronizes people born under the sign of Sagittarius. It helps to maintain cheerfulness and protects from negativity.
The Latin name is Clivia Gardenii. It grows up to half a meter in height, has leathery, belt-like, long, dark green leaves pointed at the ends. It blooms in the second half of winter with red bells collected in an umbrella inflorescence. The flower stalk reaches a height of 50 cm.
The most common type of decorative clivia. The second name of this flower is Clivia Miniata, in Latin - Clivia Miniata. While the flower is at rest, it is impossible to distinguish it from the beautiful clivia - its leaves are also belt-shaped, dark green in color and 70 cm long.
The difference is noticeable when the cinnabar clivia blooms - its flowers are red-orange, the petals are yellowish at the base. This species blooms in February-May and forms up to 20 flowers on a peduncle. It was cinnabar clivia that became the basis for breeding new varieties of this beautiful plant.
The Latin name is Clívia Nobilis. It has the same belt-like leaves, only their length is slightly shorter - 40 cm. When flowering, it throws out a half-meter peduncle with long, funnel-shaped flowers of a light red hue, collected 30-60 pieces in an inflorescence. The beautiful clivia petals are green at the tips. Flowering time is the second half of winter.
Optimal conditions for growing kaffir lily indoors
In addition to luxurious flowering and unpretentiousness, its longevity can be attributed to the advantages of clivia. If you know everything about clivia and competently care for this southerner, then you can admire it for more than a decade.
Location and lighting
First of all, you need to remember that clivia loves bright diffused light and suffers from direct sunlight.
The western and eastern direction of the windows are best suited. If you place a flower on the south side, you should take care of its shading. It is also not recommended to place clivia on the north side - it will grow more slowly and may not bloom at all. 
In summer, it is advisable to expose indoor clivia to fresh air: on the terrace or balcony, but do not forget about sun protection.
Important! During flowering and bud development, neither transplanting the clivia nor moving the pot with it is possible - the plant will begin to shed its leaves. If the bush has been rearranged, you need to place it towards the light with the same side as in the same place.
Temperature regime
If you are thinking about how to make clivia bloom at home, create the right temperature for it. During the growth period, it should be + 20-25 ° C, and from autumn to spring - + 12-14 ° C. When the temperature drops, the plant goes into a dormant period and lays buds for the next season.
As soon as the first peduncle appears, the temperature should be raised to + 18-20 ° C.
Important! The larger and older the plant, the longer its rest period should be.
Features of caring for clivia during the flowering period
If you decide to grow this flower in your home, remember that clivia needs special soil, consisting of leafy, soddy soil and sand, otherwise, home care consists in proper feeding and watering. It is desirable that there is good drainage, which can be used as ordinary sea pebbles. 
Watering and humidity
Clivia is not particularly demanding on air humidity, however, low humidity in winter and lack of lighting leads to the fact that the plant quickly fades.
Spraying should be carried out more for hygiene purposes than to increase humidity. Dust on the leaves can be removed with a damp cloth.
Clivia needs moderate watering - with an excess of moisture, the roots begin to rot, and the trunk and leaves turn brown. For irrigation, it is necessary to use separated, not hard water. It is necessary to water after the surface layer of the soil dries out, and excess water from the pallet must be poured out.
When the plant has released a peduncle and until the flowers are fully blooming, the frequency of watering is increased. After the clivia blooms, watering is reduced. During dormancy, the flower practically does not need watering - once or twice a month is enough so that the leaves do not dry out.
In winter, you need to monitor the condition of the leaves - the color and vitality. If you notice changes, carefully inspect the plant to find out why the tips of the clivia leaves are turning yellow. If you do not notice pests, just moisten the soil. 
Did you know? At home, clivia is used to treat snake bites.
When and how to feed
From the first year of life, from spring to August, it is desirable to fertilize clivia. To do this, use organic or complete mineral top dressing twice a month. It is advisable to alternate fertilizers. During the dormant period, it is not necessary to feed the clivia.
If you decide to use ready-made fertilizers, then you need to choose for bulbous and flowering plants. At the same time, florists recommend reducing the concentration indicated in the instructions.
Complex fertilizers are added to water for irrigation.
Features of care during the rest period
Experienced florists advise arranging a dormant period for home clivia - wintering. At the same time, there are certain rules for caring for clivia after flowering.
At the beginning of autumn, it is advisable to put the pot with the plant in a cool room, the temperature in which will be 7-12 ° C. With the onset of cold weather, he is returned to the room where he will spend the winter.
For young plants, two months of rest is enough. For adults, the dormant period should last longer - until March, when the flower arrow begins to grow. 
It is practically not necessary to water and feed the clivia during the dormant period. A lily signals a lack of moisture by shedding its leaves.
Important! Top dressing during the dormant period will deplete all the forces of the clivia, and it may even die.
After proper wintering, the lily blooms longer and richer.
Subtleties of clivia transplant
Young clivia need an annual transplant, as they rapidly increase in size. Mature plants need to be repotted when the roots do not fit in the pot - usually once every 2-3 years. Transplantation is done after the clivia has faded.
Despite the fact that clivia is patient even under adverse conditions, transplantation is stressful for her. Therefore, you need to carefully follow the rules for transplanting this plant.
The soil for clivia should be slightly acidic, loose and not monotonous. Optimal proportion:
- turf - 2 parts;
- peat - 1 part;
- humus - 1 part.
The pot for clivia should be small - the roots should fit tightly in it. To ensure proper air exchange and drainage, the flowerpot must have drainage holes.
The size of the pot for each subsequent transplant should be 2-4 cm larger than the previous one.
Important! If the clivia is planted in a spacious pot, it will bloom sluggishly or not bloom at all.
To prevent stagnant water, drainage must be placed at the bottom of the pot, and the root collar must protrude to the surface during transplantation (to prevent leaf rotting).
Often, when transplanting, the roots of clivia are damaged, so the places of creases should be sprinkled with activated carbon powder or ash, and in this case it is impossible to water immediately after transplantation, as the root system will begin to rot.
Very large flowers are no longer transplanted, they are annually refreshed with the top layer.
Reproduction of clivia at home
Like many lilies, clivia propagates by seed and vegetative means.
Clivia from seeds
Not the most common method of propagating clivia at home, as it is not very effective. However, many gardeners successfully use it. 
To obtain seeds, flowering clivia is cross-pollinated. In case of successful pollination, a green ovary will appear. After ripening, the berry acquires a reddish tint and becomes soft.
Kaffir lily from seed is grown from October to April. Seeds are planted in a container with a nutrient substrate (peat, sand, sod) at a distance of 2 cm from each other. Sprouts will appear only after six months.
After the seedlings grow up and begin to produce leaves, they are transplanted into small (7 cm in diameter) separate containers. Subsequent transplantation is carried out as the clivia grows. The first two years, pots for transplanting should be 3 cm larger than the previous ones. You can add some of the humus to the substrate.
Two years later, starting in autumn, the flower needs to provide a dormant period, since the clivia begins to bloom in the third or fourth year of life.
Vegetative method
The most optimal method of growing clivia is reproduction by children. They separate from the mother plant at the time when they have 4-5 leaves. Given the fragility of the roots, any damage should be avoided.
Important! In no case should you separate the sprouts during flowering.
For young sprouts, a container no larger than 7 cm in diameter is selected. When the young flower adapts and gets stronger, it can be transplanted into the ground for clivia. The plant will begin to bloom in 2-3 years.
Possible problems when growing clivia
As a result of improper care of clivia, problems can arise. In order for the flower to please with its beauty for longer, we will describe the main signs of erroneous care, the causes and ways to eliminate problems.
Most often, clivia suffers from excess moisture, as a result of which its root system rots and painful signs appear. With insufficient watering, the peduncle may be too short.
If the time has come for the kaffir lily to bloom, but it does not bloom, then the rest period was short for it. In this case, you need to provide the plant with a full rest period by placing it in a cool room.
Clivia ceases to bloom even at high temperatures or insufficient lighting. They simply deal with this problem - the temperature regime necessary for the season is created and diffused light is provided.
Another reason for the lack of flowering can be an excess of nitrogen. In this case, nitrogen fertilizers are excluded, and potash or organic fertilizers are used instead.
Did you know? Clivia was named after the Duchess of Northumberland, Charlotte Clive.
Leaves dry
If the leaves of the clivia dry out, this may be a sign of waterlogging or stagnant water. In order to save the plant, you need to change the substrate and place the flower there, after cutting off the rotten roots and disinfecting the sections.
Leaves turn yellow
Clivia may react with yellowed leaves to a transplant. To remedy the situation, it is necessary to water the plant with water with the addition of a few drops of a root growth stimulator (for example, Kornevin).
Insufficient watering can also affect the color of the leaves. In this case, it is necessary to adhere to the irrigation regime and make sure that the earth ball does not dry out.
Another reason why clivia leaves may turn yellow is a lack of nutrition. Everything is simple here - the feeding regimen must be observed.
Control of diseases and pests
With proper care, clivia is practically not susceptible to diseases, but sometimes ailments still attack it. 
The most common clivia disease is gray rot. Too spacious a pot can provoke its appearance. The rot appears as brown spots on the leaves. It can be cured by transplanting into a new pot with disinfected soil, after removing the affected roots and treating them with activated charcoal powder.
When a mealybug appears, clivia leaves are wiped with a cotton swab or cloth soaked in alcohol or a soap and tobacco solution.
Pests can also attack clivia, the most dangerous of which are:
The tropical flower kaffir lily has long taken root on the windowsills, and is loved by flower growers. Reproduction at home is carried out by root offspring and seeds. It has short, fleshy rhizomes that, under good conditions, quickly produce lateral rosettes and create lawns. In captivity, the flower is propagated when transplanted into a new container. You can grow clivia from seeds obtained from flowering plants after pollination.
Getting planting material
In a cramped pot, there is not enough space for the roots. If you take a large dish while the roots fill it, there will be no flowering. In a tight pot of fast-growing clivia, a transplant is necessary. The plant that has entered the flowering time forms around shoots, which are separated from the mother bush at the time of transplantation.
If cross-pollination is performed during flowering, then large berries are formed on the plant. When they become soft, 1-6 seeds are extracted from them, which germinate well when fresh. Clivia from seeds blooms later, in the third or fourth year. Breeders seed reproduction create new varieties of flowers. You can only get seeds from plants over the age of eight years.
Requirements for dishes and soil
Under natural conditions, clivia grows on fertile, humus-rich soil. Accordingly, a drainage layer is placed in the pot and a pillow is poured from the substrate:
- - 1 part;
- humus - 1 part;
- sod land - 2 parts.
Additionally, perlite, or vermiculite and sand are added to the ground for clivia. Superphosphate in granules poured onto the bottom of the pot will ensure better root development and abundant flowering.
Experienced flower growers use ready-made soil for orchids when transplanting. In such a substrate, the roots become oily, the plant develops and blooms faster.
A pot for transplanting needs to be selected only slightly larger than the previous one. The choice of ceramic or plastic utensils determines how easily and without injury the plant is removed. Smooth inner plastic surfaces are preferred for this plant. The conical shape of the vessel will help easy extraction of the plant. Drainage holes should provide a good outflow of irrigation water.
Clivia transplant at home
If circumstances have not occurred that require an immediate transplant of the plant, the clivia is transplanted after flowering, during the dormant period.
If you are not going to propagate clivia from seeds collected from a plant, the flower arrow must be cut off. The plant is greatly weakened, giving strength to the production of offspring.
When transshipping, it is necessary to save the roots, since the wounds can become infected and the roots will begin to rot, especially since the plant loves abundant watering. Young plants are transplanted annually, and in old ones they only change the top layer of loosened earth. When planting in a new container, the layer of earth should not cover the base of the leaves. Constant dampness in this place will lead to decay.
If the roots are damaged during transshipment, they must be carefully treated with charcoal dust. The planted plant is shaded and creates comfortable conditions for rapid rooting.
At the same time, new offspring can be carefully untangled from the mother plant for clivia propagation. An indispensable condition will be the presence of at least four leaves in young plants. Only under this condition can their roots feed a young plant.
You can plant young children in separate cups, with a bottom hole and a drainage layer. In this case, the diameter of the dishes should be about 7 cm in diameter. You can root two or three plants in one dish. When breeding clivia at home by children, it will give a flower arrow for the second or third season.
It is considered important not to create a dormant period for young plants for two years. They must intensively throw out leaves, accumulate a supply of food in order to bloom faster. Constant watering and will accelerate the formation of arrows.
Obtaining clivia from seeds.
The seed method of reproduction requires more patience. Seeds can be grown independently, when the mother plant is eight years old. They need to be sown in a school of peat, turf and sand. The seeds will hatch in six months. Favorable time for sowing is from October to April. All the time the container is kept warm and moistened a little. After the leaf comes out, the plants are transferred to separate cups.
Seeds germinate if they are kept moist in the berry. So that the berry does not dry out, it is kept until the sowing time on the cut stem.
There is also a faster way to get seedlings - in a warm place in a damp cloth. The hatched seeds are sown in separate cups.
After the seedlings grow up, they are transplanted into large cups and more nutritious soil. In two years, transplanted plants three times without a dormant period gain mass and roots. They are fed, kept at a temperature of 20 0 C. With seed propagation of clivia at home, flowering will occur in the fourth year of the plant's life.
Video about propagation of clivia by seeds
Perennial clivia (Clivia) has only 7 species in its genus. At home, this flower grows up to 60 cm tall. Clivia propagates by lateral shoots, seeds and division of the bush. Proper care of young plants makes it possible to grow healthy flowering specimens, avoiding elementary problems.
Propagation of clivia by lateral shoots
This method of breeding a flowering beauty is the most reliable and simple. In a pot with an adult plant, over time, you can find small sprouts on the sides. These are the “babies” that should be planted from the mother part of the flower when they already have four stronger leaves.
The process of jigging side shoots must be carried out, adhering to simple, but mandatory rules:
- each shoot should have 3-4 leaves;
- it is possible to disturb the plant only at the end of its flowering period in the current year;
- separate the "children" should be carefully, taking care of the integrity of the roots of the mother flower system and young shoots;
- accidentally injured roots should be covered with a layer of wood ash in places of damage.
Shoots are planted in personal pots 7 cm in diameter. For an adult flower, a small pot is also used. The root system of clivia loves tightness. With this condition of the roots, the leaves of the flower grow more fleshy and rich green.
The first two days after planting, the plant is not watered and kept warm at 20-25 degrees. Then gradually resume moderate watering.
Young plants will bloom for the first time in 2-3 years.
Plant seed propagation
To propagate plants with seeds, they are easiest to purchase at a specialized store. If you want to get seeds with your own labor, flowering clivia must be artificially cross-pollinated. To do this, use a thin watercolor brush to take pollen from one flower and carefully place it on the pistil of another flower. Thus, in a flowering clivia umbrella, which has about 60 flowers, half of them will be pollinated, and half will remain a source of pollination.
If the process succeeds, then berries will form at the end of flowering. At first they will be light green, and as they mature, they will darken to a brownish hue. Inside each of the ripe berries there are 4-5 seeds.
This method of reproduction of clivia gives a guarantee of 1/3 of flowering specimens from all received.
Clivia: landing and care (video)
Planting seeds in the soil has preliminary measures and subsequent rules:
- soak the seeds for a day in warm water, leaving them in a warm place to swell;
- seeds are planted in a box, with a properly prepared mixture of earth, to a depth of 1 cm, at a distance of 2 cm from each other;
- covered with a film or glass, creating a greenhouse. provide moderate watering and a temperature of 20-25 degrees;
- as necessary, the seed box is ventilated, removing the greenhouse cover, and watered a little.
- deciduous soil (2);
- clay soil (1);
- humus (1).
Now young flowers are cared for like adults, but they are left with a little more warmth.
Clivia seed sowing develops very slowly:
- The first year - 2-3 new leaves appear.
- The second year - 3-4 pairs of leaves will be added.
- Third year and beyond - 2 pairs of new leaves per year.
For the first time, clivia will bloom only after 5-6 years.
Reproduction technology by dividing the bush
This method is applicable at the time of transplantation. In this case, the root system is divided into equal parts, and the places of cuts are covered with a layer of charcoal. Plants are placed in pots filled with the correct potting mix and do not water for the next three days. Then resume modest watering. The soil should dry out well between each watering.
The flowering of clivia, propagated by dividing the bush, will resume only after a few years.
The soil in a clivia pot should be loose and slightly acidic. The best mixes would be:
- sod land (2) + humus (1) + peat (1);
- sod land (1) + peat (0.5) + sand (1);
- sod land (1) + leaf land (1) + humus (1).
Clivia loves light and warmth, but leaving her in the hot sun is fatal. A flower pot is best placed on the windowsill of an east or west window. On the south side of the house, the clivia must be protected from direct sunlight at noon. In summer, it is useful to take the flower out into the garden or onto the balcony, leaving it out there in the open air in partial shade.
Propagation of clivia by seeds (video)
Watering the clivia should be moderate so that the soil has time to dry well. If water collects in the pan during irrigation, it must be drained to prevent root rot. Spraying a flower is not worth it. But when the leaves are covered with dust, they are gently rubbed with a soft, damp sponge.
Clivia is fed every two weeks, from the moment it was in the pot. For this purpose, organic and mineral fertilizers are used for indoor deciduous plants, strictly observing the dosages indicated on the package.
The dormant period of clivia lasts from September to November. During this period of time, the flower is placed in a cool place and watering is completely stopped. In this case, the leaves may turn yellow and fall off, which is a natural process of wintering the plant.
Possible problems in development and ways to solve them
With proper care for clivia, she will feel great. But it happens that clivia leaves dry, turn yellow or become stained, trying to signal errors in its content:
- The leaves dry and wrinkle, talking about overdried soil. We must not forget about watering the flower.
- Rot spots on the leaves, their yellowing and falling off during the active state of the plant, show an excess of moisture in the roots. To save the flower, it urgently needs to be transplanted into a new substrate and continue not to exceed the allowable watering and allow the soil to dry well.
- Dry spots on leaves are sunburn clivia. The flower must be removed from direct summer sunlight that burns it.
Vegetative propagation of clivia (video)
Clivia is sometimes attacked by spider mites and aphids. If such a nuisance overtook the plant, then it must immediately be treated with a special preparation purchased in a specialized flower department. If you do not drive away the pests, they can destroy the flower.
The most important difference between Clivia and other plants of this family for reproduction is that the underground part of the plant is not represented by bulbs, as in other Amaryllis, but by a fleshy rhizome with adventitious roots. This means that the methods of reproduction will be somewhat different. For Clivia, vegetative propagation methods are mainly used, that is, parts of the rhizome and processes, and the seed method. Let's consider each of them in more detail.
How to plant shoots and parts of the rhizome?
The most commonly used propagation is by shoots, the so-called children, since this is a less laborious and relatively fast method. The disadvantages of the method include the fact that young plants cannot be propagated in this way, that is, the presence of the shoots themselves is necessary. Drop off children must have at least 4 sheets.
Material selection
During the transplantation period, the shoots are separated from the mother plant with a part of the rhizome with a sharp knife. All sections must be treated with charcoal, since Clivia's roots are prone to decay, and coal has a drying effect. Young shoots should be handled with extreme care and any damage should be avoided, as the roots of the plant are very fragile.
Important: A flowering plant is not transplanted or propagated. Transplantation and reproduction are carried out after the flowering of Clivia, during the dormant period.
Requirements for dishes and soil
For young shoots use pots with a diameter of about 7 cm. It is possible to plant several children in one dish.
As a soil, you can choose a mixture of leaf earth and sand, a mixture of sand and peat, or clean wet sand. It is very important that the soil is non-moisture intensive, as the clivia reacts sharply to the increased humidity of the substrate in which it is grown.
Also, there should be a drainage layer at the bottom of the pot so that excess water does not lead to rotting of the roots and death of the plant. For drainage, you can use pieces of broken brick, pebbles, expanded clay.
transplant process at home
An adult mother plant is transplanted every 1-3 years, depending on the age of the plant.. The pot should be 3-5 cm larger than the previous one. Soil for Clivia requires nutritious, for example, a mixture of clay-turf and leaf soil, sometimes soil is used for orchids.
The plant is transplanted by simple transshipment, but if there is a need to separate the children, then the roots are very carefully straightened and washed from the old soil. When planting in a new pot, make sure that the root neck is above the ground to prevent rotting.
Read about how to transplant clivia at home.
Rooting young plants
The planted daughter shoots after planting are not watered for 3-4 days, then moderate watering is carefully resumed.. Young plants will bloom only after 2-3 years, but it is important not to create a dormant period for the plants at this time so that they continue to grow green mass and fill the pot space with roots (if your clivia does not bloom, you can read). Then the flowering will be more magnificent.
This can be achieved by systematic, but not too abundant watering and top dressing. The method is considered optimal, since it requires much less time and effort, and daughter plants will begin to delight in flowering much earlier.
Division of the underground part of the trunk
A little less often, reproduction by parts of the rhizome is used. Planting material is also obtained during transplantation. It is important to pay attention that there is a kidney in the cut off piece of rhizome, from which the shoot will develop in the future. All sections, as in the previous case, should be treated with charcoal.
Pieces of rhizomes are carefully placed in a mixture of sand and peat and watering is limited for 2 days.. Then watering is gradually returned. A plant obtained in this way will begin to bloom at 3-4 years of age.
Seed breeding
The next method is more suitable for ideological people who are in love with floriculture. It is less efficient and more time consuming, but also more interesting. It becomes especially interesting if there are already several Clivia of different colors at home. In this case, you can try to get a hybrid of these two plants and feel like a real breeder.
Training
But the seeds obtained from the mother plant do not require soaking, and getting them is much more entertaining. During flowering, Clivia is cross-pollinated, it is possible both pollination of different flowers of one plant, and pollination of two different Clivia. Readiness for pollination is determined by the flower itself.
When a small droplet appears on the stigma of the pistil, and the stamens begin to crumble, you can start pollinating. To do this, carefully run a wet cotton swab or toothpick over the stamen so that some of the pollen remains on the tool, and why transfer it to the top of the pestle.
If pollination was successful, then the flower will begin to wither, and a green ovary will form at its base.. It is she who later forms the fruit. On one plant there can be several fruits at the same time, which will not interfere with the development of each other in any way, but can spoil it for some time. appearance. Over time, the Clivia berry will turn red and become soft, which will indicate its maturity. But do not rush to pluck them before landing. Seeds are recommended to be planted immediately from the fruit, so that they do not have time to dry.
Attention: Despite the attractive appearance of Clivia berries, they should never be eaten.
Sowing
Seeds are planted in a container with a nutrient medium, usually a mixture of sand, peat and turf. It is strictly observed that there are 2 cm between the seeds, and the planting depth is not more than 1-1.5 cm. If the seeds are still dry, then they are kept for about a week in a warm place in a damp cloth or gauze before planting in the ground. After 4-6 weeks, the first shoots will appear, in six months the plant can grow up to six leaves. With the appearance of the first leaves, seedlings can be planted in separate containers. In the first year they are transplanted twice, then once a year, increasing the diameter of the pot by 2-3 cm.
The first three years of Clivia do not suit the dormant period, allowing you to grow roots and leaves.. Young plants from seeds will bloom only for 4-5 years of life. Clivia is a poisonous plant, it is necessary that children and animals do not have access to the plant in order to avoid poisoning. After all the manipulations carried out with the plant, you should thoroughly wash your hands and tools.
Choice of selection method
The most commonly used vegetative method. It does not require special conditions, a long wait and can be part of an annual transplant. Young seeded shoots are already quite developed and will begin to bloom much earlier. But sometimes adult large-sized specimens simply cannot be transplanted. Or the plant may simply not produce new shoots. Then you can resort to the second method.
The seed method is rarely used due to low efficiency., but allows you to propagate a plant that is difficult to transplant, and also opens up new horizons regarding selection on the windowsill. It is used mainly in the cold season.
No matter how interesting this method is, it can not always be used. It should be applied if the plant is more than 8 years old, it is healthy and receives enough nutrition. A large number of restrictions are justified by the fact that fruiting greatly depletes the plant.
Conclusion
Clivia is a completely unusual plant.. It is difficult to resist the temptation to get a whole field of splendor through a fairly simple reproduction. It does not matter at all which method was chosen for this. Here the result is much more important.
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Among tropical decorative flowers that immediately attract attention, Clivia deservedly holds the first position. There is the simplest explanation for this: its unpretentiousness, ease of care and very lush, bright flowering at the end of winter, which can bring its positive notes into the cold season, captivates.
Caring for a home clivia flower by season
During the summer, when the air temperature passes the mark of +20 ° C, the clivia is put outside, providing partial shade. As the substrate dries, it is moistened. twice a month.
Period from autumn to mid-winter is considered rest time. At this time it is best:
- put it on the window on the north side of the apartment;
- limit the flow of light;
- ensure optimal temperature within +12..+15°C;
- water 2 times a month;
- do without supplements.
Second half of winter and spring require the most reverent attitude, since at this time a peduncle appears. To do this, the plant is transferred to a room with windows to the east or west, protected from direct sunlight, and the air temperature is maintained at + 20 .. + 25 ° C. Periodically water the substrate to a slightly moist state, fertilize twice a month. Humidity is not a vital indicator for a plant; they do not pay special attention to it. Only occasionally wipe the leaves from dust particles.
Proper care of clivia will give you beautiful flowers
The unpretentiousness of the flower allows flower growers to relax a little, to master only the rules of watering and feeding. And also to take care of a little, observing the necessary requirements during the autumn-winter rest.
How to water the clivia
Clivia is extremely negative about high soil moisture. Only the drying of the top earthen layer will remind you to start watering. In the event of an overflow, when excess water enters the pan through the drainage hole, it is immediately drained. Neglecting this procedure, you can provoke root rot.
- The amount of watering is sharply reduced with the advent of a dormant period, this is autumn-early winter. At this time, it is enough to moisten the earth once a decade to make up for the lack of water in the soil.
- With the formation of a peduncle, regular watering of the clivia is resumed. Water only if you notice that the top layer in the pot has dried out a couple of centimeters.
If water for irrigation is taken from the water supply, then it is certainly defended so that the chlorine ions, which are sometimes present there, have time to evaporate.
It has been proven that the state of the flower does not depend on air humidity, so you should not put a humidifier next to it and spray the leaves once again. But if you wipe their surface with a damp cloth, then the beauty will sparkle with new colors. Especially for clivia, in the hot summer, bathing under a warm shower is arranged.
Seasonal top dressing
In order for the clivia to develop normally, to become outwardly even more attractive, it must be fed. In the summer, in the first year of the plant's life, as well as during flowering, they alternately apply organic matter and a complex of mineral fertilizers intended for indoor plants. They do this a couple of times a month.
Among the organic matter, which is based on biohumus, such products as "Giant", "Ideal", "Breadwinner" are in demand. For feeding, take 1 tablespoon of any fertilizer, diluted in 2 liters of water. As for mineral complexes, 2 grams of "Ammophos" ("Nitrofoska") or "Kemira" diluted in 1 liter of water will make up for the lack of nitrogen and phosphorus required for the plant. With the onset of autumn, top dressing is temporarily stopped for the duration of the plant's stay at rest.
Resume top dressing with the appearance of an arrow of the peduncle. Experienced flower growers know that nitrogen-containing top dressing helps to delay the appearance of the peduncle, while potash stimulates flowering.
Clivia care during flowering
Clivia is usually observed at the end of winter or with the arrival of spring. It lasts from 20 to 25 days. The arrow of the peduncle hatches at a time when the flower is in a cool room. As soon as the length of the arrow reaches 10 cm, the plant is taken out of dormancy, moved to a warm place with good lighting.
They try not to move it anywhere else, not to move it, not even to turn it around its axis.
- During the flowering period, increase the frequency of watering. stimulate it with regular fertilization.
- Untimely watering affects the condition of the peduncle (it will remain short and inexpressive) and flowering time may be reduced.
Why clivia does not bloom and what to do
The flowering of clivia obtained from seeds is expected only in the 4th year of the plant's life. Clivia, grown from a shoot, begins to bloom in the second year (sometimes in the third). Experts attribute the main reason for the delay in flowering to the lack of rest.
- In the autumn-winter period, the implementation of all recommendations regarding watering and temperature conditions will lead to the fact that in the second half of winter the plant will release an arrow of the long-awaited peduncle.
- Immediately after the appearance of the peduncle, the plant is given a warm shower, more intensive watering begins and mineral potassium-containing fertilizers are applied. To do this, use potassium salt, potassium chloride, sodium sulfate.
If in due time the clivia refuses to bloom, then they resort to the following measures: the plant is left in a room with a lower air temperature of the order of 15 -16 ° C and low lighting for 2-4 weeks.
Reasons why clivia does not bloom:
- A very wide, spacious pot also becomes common cause flowering delays. The only way out of this situation is to wait for the time when the roots of the plant completely fill its volume.
- Improper care during the rest period (read above).
- Clivia has grown a lot, you need to divide it and seat the children in separate pots.
Clivia after flowering What to do when it has faded?
The period after flowering is conditionally divided into two halves. The first is in the summer, when the clivia grows green mass, enjoys the natural warmth and light. The second half is a dormant period when the flower is taken out to a cool place. Most often, the glazed loggia of a city apartment plays this role. It will not be superfluous to remind you that at temperatures below +12 ° C, clivia dies.
The duration of the rest of the clivia directly depends on its age. A couple of months (from September to November) are enough for young plants to gain strength for flowering. Starting from the age of five, the plant is given a full autumn-winter rest from September to February. And only the appearance of a peduncle brings the age-related clivia out of a sleepy state.
Clivia bloom twice a year: myth or reality?
When the clivia blooms, it is taken out into the open air, to a shady, calm place.
Desire to get flowering for the second time in a year makes flower growers resort to the following trick:
- the plant is allowed to rest for 2-3 months, taken to a dimly lit place, watering is practically stopped (1-2 times a month).
- From these strict measures, its dark green leaves turn slightly yellow, but after about 1 month, the appearance of a peduncle is observed.
Remember: only mature, strong, healthy plants are attracted to such experiments.
Common mistakes in clivia care
Unpretentious clivia endures any conditions of existence without prejudice to itself. But some circumstances can affect its appearance: the tips of the leaves dry out on the plant, brown spots, yellowness. Knowing the cause of unpleasant external manifestations, you can take actions that will eliminate them. For example:
Clivia turns yellow, what to do?
If the clivia leaves turn yellow, this is due to:
- being in a draft.
- insufficient watering.
- natural aging and death of old leaves.
- lack of nutrients in the soil, top dressing is needed.
- the return of nutrients to the peduncle to the detriment of the leaves (feeding is needed).
- adverse effects of transplantation.
- wrong choice of place for the plant.
- too high water hardness.
- root rot damage. Only a transplant with the complete removal of damaged parts of the root will help.
It is pointless to fight natural aging, as new leaves will grow to replace the old ones. The lack of fertilizers is replenished as follows: in spring and summer, the crop is fed twice a month. So that the redistribution of nutrients does not affect the state of the leaf blade, each time the peduncle is cut off after the flowers wither.
The ends of the clivia leaves withered and turned brown
So the plant feels an excess of moisture. Reducing watering will help to avoid waterlogging. It is made more moderate and do not forget to pour the accumulated water from the pan.
Leaf rot after transplanting
Among the measures to combat rot are the following:
- stop watering for a long time;
- waiting for the earth to dry;
- cut off the affected areas, monitor the condition of the plant, preventing the spread of foci of rot.
When the plant gets rid of the disease, watering is gradually resumed as usual.
Brown spots on clivia leaves due to sunburn
Pale clivia leaves
This indicates a lack of nutrients, so the timely application of fertilizers will correct the situation.
Features of landing and transplantation
Clivia is not at all worried about the unfavorable conditions of detention. The only thing I don't like is being disturbed. The plant experiences stress especially during transplantation. It is believed that until the roots appear outside the pot, this procedure should be refrained from. An adult culture is not touched for 2-3 years, and then transferred to a wider pot. Do it after flowering.
Only youngsters are subject to annual. When transplanting, they try not to harm the root system, which rots at the slightest wound. If the root is still accidentally damaged, then the wound is treated with crushed coal.
A very old clivia at the age of 10 years plus is no longer transplanted, annually renewing the top layer of soil to a depth of 3-5 cm.
- When choosing a pot, make sure that it is not spacious, but a little cramped for the roots. Otherwise, the clivia will not release the peduncle until its roots fill the pot volume.
- When transplanting, each subsequent pot should exceed the width of the previous one by 3 cm, no more.
- Drainage holes will help remove excess moisture and allow air to enter to ventilate the root system.
The bottom of the pot is filled with drainage to help manage soil moisture. Broken brick, small gravel, pebbles, collected on the banks of reservoirs or expanded clay bought in a flower shop are suitable for it. Loose slightly acidic soil is poured onto the drainage. It is obtained by mixing equal parts of turf, leafy soil, sand.
Young clivia needs loose soil. To satisfy her desire, the following proportion of soil components is used: leafy earth + turf - 5 parts, sand (or perlite) - 1 part. If the soil is purchased in a store, then for this purpose it is better to choose the soil for growing orchids. This mixture contributes to the excellent development of clivia.
Before planting, the soil is treated to disinfect it. Disinfection is done in any of the following ways:
- calcined in the oven for 10 minutes at a temperature of 200 ° C;
- use a microwave, keeping the mixture for 2-3 minutes at maximum power;
- spilled with boiling water;
- treated with a weak solution of manganese.
After processing, the soil must be mineralized by adding fertilizers (in the amount of 30 g), the basis of which is phosphorus, for example, superphosphate or phosphate rock. This measure improves the nutritional properties of the soil.
Clivia transplant at home on video:
- The earth is well moistened before transplanting, left for 1-2 hours to facilitate extraction. Then they take out a bush along with a clod of earth. The roots of young plants are carefully washed under running water.
- If there are putrefactive lesions, the root is partially removed, not forgetting to sprinkle the cut with charcoal (if there is no wood, it can also be activated). Careful handling of the roots will help to avoid accidental damage that can lead to the death of the plant.
- Drainage from the bottom is raised to a height of 1/4 of the pot, then soil is poured 3 cm thick, a clivia is placed in the center. Fill the remaining voids with earth. At the same time, an immutable rule is observed: it is strictly forbidden to dig the root collar deep into the ground. This will cause the lower leaves to rot. The root neck should always be above the soil surface.
Reproduction of clivia is not difficult!
Clivia use seeds or side shoots, which are called babies. Most often they resort to obtaining new plants with the help of side shoots. It's simple, besides, flowering occurs much earlier in time. However, for the most experienced, scrupulous flower growers, growing a pet from seeds is not difficult.
Reproduction of clivia by processes
This type of reproduction, of course, is simpler, more effective. After flowering of an adult plant, they begin to transplant it. At the same time, children are carefully separated from the mother bush. The tangled roots of the plants are separated with a knife. The place of the cut is immediately sprinkled with charcoal, dried for 30 minutes.
Clivia babies are planted in pre-prepared small containers. Young shoots determine a place on a bright, warm windowsill, as it feels the need for warmth, light a little more than adult plants. But she needs less water. Flowering is expected in 2-3 years.
Growing clivia from seeds
How to get seeds
Usually, clivia seeds are purchased at the store. The desire to have your own seed material from a pet pushes flower growers to take the last step: get them yourself. Flower lovers are not stopped by the fact that the full ripening of the fruit takes a lot of strength from the plant, depletes it. But the planting material is excellent, immediately ready for planting.
At the beginning, a flowering plant is artificially pollinated with a soft brush. Waiting for ripe fruits lasts up to 9 months. Full ripening will occur when the fruit (berry) changes from green to red, and its rigid structure becomes soft. Seeds are planted immediately, without delay. Clivia belongs to the group of plants in which seeds lose their germination capacity every day. For this reason, you should prepare in advance for collecting seeds, hurry up with their subsequent planting.
How to plant clivia seeds:
- Fresh seeds are kept in water for 24 hours to swell.
- Mix the soil components in equal proportions and place it in a container. The soil is prepared two-component, consisting only of perlite with peat, or three-component, representing a mixture of soddy soil, sand, peat.
- The distance between the seeds is at least 2 cm, but 5-6 cm is better.
- To create greenhouse conditions, the container is covered with plastic wrap or glass.
- Air every day for 10-15 minutes and, if necessary, slightly moisturize.
- Picking is carried out immediately after the appearance of the first true leaflet. To do this, take small pots, fill them with soil formed from humus, deciduous soil, clay soil, plant seedlings there.
Slow growing seedlings are often a concern as they seem to freeze for the first 2 years. Every year, a young clivia, along with a clod of earth, is moved to a wider pot. The plant obtained from the seed is suitable for flowering only for 4-6 years of life.
Video about growing clivia from seeds:
Diseases and pests of clivia
Clivia is not often attacked by pests, but if this happens, it becomes necessary to stop their spread. It is not easy to cope with the bred brethren, and in neglected situations, it is practically impossible. AT last resort have to say goodbye to the plant. The most common pest is the mealybug, scale insect.
The scale insect and the mealybug are close relatives to each other, they settle on leaves, buds and feed on juices, delaying the growth of the plant. If the scab is covered with a wax protective shield, then the worms are only covered with a wax coating. The adult shield aphid is motionless, while its larvae quickly move through any part of the plant. Worms (hairy lice) form numerous colonies, visible to the naked eye. Among the diseases, rot is often found.
Pest and disease control measures
The shield looks like a dark spot-growth on the leaves. To destroy it, the leaves are treated with a solution of laundry soap. To increase the effectiveness of the product, a drop of kerosene or denatured alcohol is added to the solution. An immovable adult scale insect is removed with a damp cotton swab. At the end of the treatment, the plant is sprayed with "Confidor" (insecticide).
The appearance of “white cotton wool” on the leaves indicates the presence of a mealybug
When absolutely all the leaves begin to turn yellow, slowly die off - this is a clear sign of damage to the root system by rot. To avoid the spread of the disease, the clivia is carefully dug up, the roots are examined, all damage is removed, not forgetting to sprinkle with charcoal, and transplanted into another soil.
A very common cause of pests and diseases is the poor bacteriological condition of the soil, so it is recommended to start each transplant with disinfection of the soil.