Why are there brown spots on the palm tree. Hamedorea: home care, photo, transplant, palm diseases

Almost everyone at least once in their life went on vacation in winter or summer to hot countries, where there is sea, sand, exotic fruits and, of course, palm trees. Today it is easy to make a green recreation area in the house by placing an exotic palm tree in it, which can be purchased at the store. The most unpretentious for growing at home is the beautiful chamedorea, which naturally grows in tropical rainforests. In order for an ornamental plant to decorate a house or apartment with beautiful foliage, you need to know some of the nuances of its cultivation and care.

Hamedorea or bamboo palm in nature reaches a height of 3 to 5 meters. At home, it can grow up to about one and a half meters. The plant has a thin trunk, on which, after the fallen lower leaves, ring marks are visible. At proper care and growing conditions, new shoots will form on the rhizomes, and bamboo thin stems will grow.

On each trunk, feathery green leaves dissected into a large number of segments are formed. They have grooved or rounded long petioles. The leaf plate is also quite long, therefore it is inclined in an arcuate manner. This is best seen in adult specimens.

At a young age, hamedorea can bloom, and at any time of the year. First, a peduncle is formed on the bamboo palm, along the entire length of which bright yellow, slightly velvety flowers of small size bloom. Experienced flower growers recommend removing the flower spike that has appeared, since the plant spends a lot of energy on the formation of buds, which can affect the decorativeness of the leaves.

They grow very slowly, so if you want to decorate your green corner with a large tree right away, then get an adult plant.

Hamedorea graceful or Neantha

This type of palm can most often be seen in flower shops, where Neanta is sold in bushes. That is, several palm trees grow at once in one pot.

In height, the graceful chamedorea can reach from one and a half to two meters. She has thin trunks, on which about seven light green pinnate leaves are formed. Each leaf consists of 8-14 narrow-lanceolate leaf blades.

Neantha is the most unpretentious of all palm trees, as it is able to adapt to almost any growing conditions. It is resistant to many pests, can grow in partial shade and withstand a short drying of an earthen coma. However, so that the leaves of the plant always have decorative look, it is still necessary to know certain rules when growing elegant chamedorea.

Chamedorea palm - home care

Lighting Neanta loves the scattered. Many people think that since palm trees grow in hot countries, they should be placed in the sun. Such an opinion is erroneous. Chamedorea in nature grows under the foliage of tall trees and direct sunlight is contraindicated for it. Otherwise, its leaves will turn yellow (see photo).

However, it will not grow at all in the shade. If you put it far from the window in the back of the room, then the trunk will begin to stretch, and the leaves will lose their decorative effect. You can put a hamedorea opposite the western or southern window. If your windows face north, then the tree should be on or near the windowsill.

In order for the leaves to grow in different directions, and the trunk does not lean, the plant regularly needs to be turned in different directions to the light source.

Air temperature for a chamedorea palm tree, it should always be warm. It should not fall below +18 degrees even in winter. Many gardeners like that the plant does not need to be provided with a dormant period and can be grown at room temperature in winter. But if the room is cool during the cold season, then the temperature should not fall below +16 degrees. In this case, the bush needs to be watered less often and you can not spray it.

Watering hamadorea. When caring for Neanta, the main thing is not to overmoisten the soil. It will tolerate drying out of the soil more easily, so it is necessary to water the plant only after the top layer of soil in the pot dries well. In cool rooms, it is necessary to water the tree after the soil has dried to a depth of 3-4 cm.

Remember that they love moist air, not soil! If the leaves turn yellow, the stem at the base has darkened, and a musty smell comes out of the pot, then you are watering your bamboo palm too often. In such conditions, she may soon die.

Air humidity tropical plant loves high. Therefore, when caring for hemedorea at home, it must be sprayed daily with settled water. Plants are especially affected by dry air that comes from heating radiators in winter. In such conditions, sometimes spraying does not even help, and the tips of the leaves begin to dry on the palm.

In rooms with dry air, spider mites can start on the leaves, which feed on their juice. As a result, the leaves of the chamedorea turn yellow and fall off. A humidifier can help increase the humidity in the air. If it is not possible to purchase it, then a container with water is placed next to the palm tree, which will evaporate and humidify the air.

Feeding Hamedorea held during the period of active growth, that is, from April to September. In specialized stores, you can purchase special mineral fertilizers for palm trees, which are used according to the attached instructions. It is necessary to feed the plant once or twice a month.

Hamedorea transplant

This is a very crucial moment when caring for Neanta, since many inexperienced flower growers make mistakes when transplanting. As a result, the plant suffers or even dies. But if you follow all the recommendations, your bamboo palm will soon take root and begin to grow.

Approximately 10-14 days after purchase, when the plant gets used to the new home conditions, it will need to be transplanted from the shipping plastic container into a new pot. If Neanta is already growing in your house, then a young plant is transplanted into a new container every year, and adult specimens once every 3-4 years.
To transplant chamedorea, you can use soil for palm trees from the store or make it yourself from soddy soil, peat, humus and perlite, which are taken in equal parts. Before use, turf and humus are recommended to be sterilized in the microwave.
The palm transplant pot should be only 2-3 cm larger than the previous one. The mistake of many flower growers is that they plant a small tree immediately in a large pot. Under no circumstances should this be done! Increase the size of the pot should be gradual.
If you are going to plant a single-stemmed palm tree, then choose a pot a couple of centimeters larger than the volume of its roots. A small amount of roots in a large volume of earth will begin to turn sour and rot. As a result, the leaves of the chamedorea will turn yellow, and it may even die.
Plant transplantation is best done by transshipment, so as not to disturb the roots. At the bottom of the new pot, a drainage layer is first poured, then a small layer of soil, and only after that, a palm tree is placed along with a clod of earth. The roots of the bush are covered with soil mixture and watered.
Adult plants do not like transplants, but they need to update the soil. If the chamedorea in the pot is not crowded and the roots are not visible from the drainage hole, then in the spring you can simply remove the old topsoil and replace it with a new one.

To get a beautiful palm bush, plant several palm trees of different ages and lengths in one pot at once.

pruning chamedorea

In any palm tree, the lower leaves dry out over time, so they need to be cut off. This should be done with a pruner or a sharp knife. Before use and after trimming, it is recommended to wipe the tools with an alcohol-containing solution. The cut sites after the procedure are treated with any fungicidal preparation. Also, during pruning, you need to pay attention to the tips of the leaves and trim the dry ones. The yellow leaves that have lost their decorative effect are also cut off.

Pests and diseases of chamedorea

Of the pests, Neanthu can be affected by spider mites, aphids, scale insects and mealybugs. Bamboo palm is resistant to harmful insects, but dry air and contaminated soil can lead to their appearance. If the leaves of the hamedorea began to turn yellow and dry, carefully inspect them from the underside, and also pay attention to the trunk:

spider mites can be recognized by very small moving dots and a cobweb between the leaves;
scale insect looks like gray or brown plaques that are hard to tear off;
green or gray aphid insects can settle on the table and top of the tree;
mealybug looks like pieces of cotton wool.

All these insects feed on the sap of the plant, which is why the leaves first lose their decorative effect, and soon dry up and fly around. You can destroy pests with the help of special insecticidal preparations.

With stagnant soil in a pot, cold indoor air and in contaminated soil, chamedorea can be affected by diseases in the form of pink rot or leaf spot:

pink rot affects the roots of a palm tree, and wet pink, brown or brown spots appear on the leaves and trunk. After a while, the trunk rots and the plant dies. To cure chamedorea, it is necessary to change the soil, cut off rotten roots, and treat the rest with a fungicide.
leaf spot- This is a fungal disease that manifests itself as oval or round spots on the leaves of gray, brown, light green, brown, white or yellow. The fungus multiplies rapidly and soon the leaves wither completely. It is necessary to reduce watering, cut off the affected leaves and spray the bush with a fungicidal preparation.

Problems in growing chamedorea

The tips of the leaves dry

Dry and brown leaf tips indicate dry indoor air. Mist the foliage more often, keep the tree away from radiators, and occasionally wash the leaves under a warm shower. Before washing the plant in the shower, the ground must be covered with cellophane so that water with bleach does not get into it.

Lithuania takes on a darker green hue and leaves tips dry in low light. Try to put your chamedorea closer to the light source. If the hamedorea is already large and stands far from the window, then in winter it may need additional artificial lighting.

Hamedorea leaves dry - what to do?

There can be several reasons for this problem:

The old lower leaves on palm trees eventually dry out and fall off. This is a natural process and you should not worry.
With dry air at home, the tips of the leaves dry first, and if no measures are taken, then over time the leaf plates will begin to dry out completely. Place water containers or a humidifier near the plant.
Pests can cause yellowing and drying of the leaves of Neantha. How to deal with them, we wrote above.
If both old and young leaves turn yellow and dry on the plant, then the roots may rot. Reconsider the care, perhaps you are just flooding the palm tree or it is standing in a draft. The plant is recommended to be transplanted into a new soil, after examining the roots. The rotten ones are cut off, and the remaining ones are treated with a fungicide.

The yellowing of leaves on a palm tree is due to many reasons:

planting a plant in a very large pot;
the soil is depleted and the plant needs top dressing;
the tree stands in a sunny place, and the rays of the sun burn the leaves;
because of the dry air in the room, pests started up on the palm tree;
frequent watering leads to rotting of the roots and yellowing of the foliage;
if a palm tree stands in a draft, its roots are supercooled, and the leaves turn yellow.

As you can see, all the problems in growing chamedorea at home are associated with care errors and improper placement of the palm tree. Follow all the rules for caring for Neanta and the palm tree will thank you with beautiful foliage that will decorate your green corner in the house.

Here are the most common plant diseases that are found on indoor flowers. Attention: on any plants in case of violation of agricultural technology (bay, hypothermia, overfeeding with fertilizers) or when planted in non-disinfected soil, signs of several diseases may appear. In the world around us, not one or two types of microorganisms, but millions. We can guess the disease by single characteristic spots. There are specific diseases that cannot be confused with anything: gray rot (long threads of gray mold), powdery mildew (leaves seem to be covered with white dust), dropsy of leaves in succulents (green pimples, the plant is not depressed), ring patterns from viruses and some other.

But very often, plants manifest several diseases at the same time, for example, orchids have tracheomycosis (fusarium) and at the same time septoria or phyllosticosis. Root rot and alternariosis. The good news is that the ones offered to us in the store are usually effective against many diseases. But do not forget that for personal households (i.e. for the home), drugs of hazard classes 3 and 4 are allowed.

Alternariosis and dry spotting

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Alternaria. The fungus infects mainly leaves, sometimes stems and tubers.

Symptoms: First, dry brown spots appear, first on the lower and then on the upper leaves. Usually concentric circles are visible on the spots. With the increase in the spot, it gradually turns black, and gray conidia become visible on it.

Frequent temperature changes and changes in humidity contribute to the spread of the disease, i.e. alternating dry and wet periods. But the optimal conditions for the development of the fungus are at temperatures above about 25-30 ° C and humidity up to 90%.

Prevention

Avoid overcrowded plants, cut out excess branches and leaves during. Ventilate the room or greenhouse, if the flowers are on the balcony, make sure that there is good ventilation and mold does not grow on the walls - this is an indicator of microclimate disturbances.

Control measures

Fungicides used to combat alternariosis:

abiga peak 50 g per 10 liters of water
acrobat MC 20 g per 5 l of water
oxychom 20 g per 10 l of water
hom 40 g per 10 liters of water
Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Anthracnose

The causative agent is fungi of the genera Colletotrichum, Gloeosporium, Kabatiella. Palm trees, ficuses, anthurium, etc. are more often affected.

Symptoms: The disease affects the leaves, stems, petioles and fruits of plants. Spots on different plants, and depending on the pathogen, look different.

Kabatiella zeae - causes the formation of small round or irregular spots, 2-5 mm in diameter with a clear outline. Looks like yellow spot, with a brown or black dot inside. If the spot is larger, instead of a black dot, a dark rim is formed, and inside it is a grayish ring.
Colletotrichum orbiculare - causes usually reddish-brown, often with a slight yellow border, spots, from 2 to 12 mm. On some plants the spots are pale green. Rounded or elongated in shape. In the affected areas, the spots merge, dry out, become like parchment, crack, holes form.
Colletotrichum trichellum - large yellowish-brown or gray-brown spots on leaves and stems with dark sporulation pads. If you look closely, it is noticeable that on the spots on the upper side of the leaf, the surface is not smooth, but covered with fluffy hairs of spores, however, the spores are already noticeable when the plant is severely damaged. The spots on the fruits are gray-brown with a dark middle, depressed.

Anthracnose develops rapidly in greenhouse conditions, i.e. at high air humidity (about 90-100%) and an elevated temperature of 22-27 °. And also with frequent (several times a day) spraying of plants. The fungus is frost-resistant - it is preserved in plant debris, in seeds and spreads with water during irrigation.

Prevention

Removal of leaves with suspicious spots, disinfection of the earth, seed dressing. Suspicious plants bought in the store are quarantined. When signs of the manifestation of the disease, it is necessary to stop spraying the plants.

Control measures

Spraying, usually three treatments are enough, using fungicides:

oxychom 15-20 g per 10 liters of water
: 100 g per 10 liters of water
colloidal sulfur: 50-100 g per 10 liters of water
strobi fungicide, in a system with other fungicides, 4 g per 10 l of water
abiga-peak: 50 g suspension per 10 liters of water

Ascochitosis

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Ascochyta. The most severe lesions are caused by ascochitosis of chrysanthemums, which most often affects plants of the Compositae family.

Symptoms: at the initial stage, small, only 1-2 mm reddish or brown spots appear on the leaves, sometimes brown, reddish with a yellowish or brown rim, of various shapes. The spots increase in size and acquire a dark brown necrotic hue with a yellowish chlorosis border around the edge. Small black spores of the fungus can only be seen under magnification with a magnifying glass. If the growth of the fungus on the stem rings it, then the stem easily breaks.

Sometimes the disease begins with signs of overdrying of the plant - the tips of the leaves begin to dry out, a dark brown stripe forms on the border with healthy tissue. The causative agent is very resistant to deep temperature changes, i.e. tolerates both severe drought and freezing of the soil. Preserved on plant residues, seeds. The disease spreads with the wind, undisinfected soil, water drops.

Prevention and treatment, as in .

Dropsy leaves (edema)

A disease caused not by a fungus or bacteria, but resulting from waterlogging of the soil, often with a lack of lighting. It usually appears in succulents, typical for peperomia, fat women, Kalanchoe, possibly on pelargonium, sheffler.

Symptoms: the plant, most often on the underside of the leaf, barely noticeable pimples appear, they seem watery, but are actually dense, sometimes, like cork growths, some look like warts, the color of the leaf may be preserved, i.e. the spots are green, may acquire a gray necrotic color. This is due to the fact that part of the roots dies (due to overdrying, waterlogging, hypothermia), nutrition is disrupted through the conductive vessels that were supplied by these particular roots. Since waterlogging is not strong, the soil had time to dry out, rotting did not spread further, but the spots remained. The affected leaves will not recover, but if the plant is given good conditions, the new leaves will be healthy.

The difference between dropsy (edema) and other diseases, root rot is that the plant is not depressed, it grows noticeably, and the spots themselves in small areas affect 1-3 leaves on the bush. Leaves with dropsy do not turn yellow, do not dry out and do not fall off!

Treatment and prevention: Adjust watering, do not flood, after heavy watering and when compacting the soil in a pot, loosen the ground. Make up the soil with a high proportion of draining, loosening particles - at least 1/5 or 1/4 of the volume of the pot.

Downy mildew (Peronosporosis)

The causative agents are fungi of the genera Peronospora, Plasmopara, Pseudoperonospora, Mildew. The disease can affect any indoor plants, but the disease is quite rare.

Symptoms: on the upper side of the leaves, yellow, then brown spots of irregular shape are formed, with a false powdery rose of cucumbers, the spots are angular (the specifics of the leaf structure). Gradually, necrosis occurs in these places, and the spots become brown. On the lower side of the leaves - at the beginning of the disease, a light gray coating from the conidial sporulation of the pathogen that came to the surface of the leaf through the stomata, then this coating gradually turns black. Diseased leaves turn yellow, become wrinkled or corrugated, wither and dry out. The causative agent with a strong degree of damage can penetrate into the vascular system, which is noticeable on the cut in the form of darkened vessels (mycelium and spores).

The disease predominates in heavy acidic soils. Exacerbates the spread of high humidity and poor ventilation. The source of infection is undisinfected soil and seeds.

Prevention

Maintaining low humidity, regular airing, thinning and cleaning the bushes. Change of soil and its disinfection. If signs of the disease are already detected, avoid spraying and watering the leaves when watering.

Seed preparation for sowing:

immersion in hot water at 50°C for 20 minutes, followed by rapid cooling in cold water for 2-3 minutes
soaking in a seed treater, for example, Maxim preparation

Control measures

Removal of diseased leaves and severely affected branches. You can use preparations containing copper: oxychom, cuproxate, 1% solution, ordan. These fungicides are more available (cheap and effective) for the treatment of horticultural and horticultural plants. You can get more modern preparations: quadris, bravo - but they are not sold in small packages, they are intended only for agriculture (in cans and bottles), gardeners usually buy them in collective purchases.

For a simple grower, fungicides are available:

topaz 4 ml per 10 liters of water
abiga-peak 50 g suspension per 10 l of water
oxychom 15-20 g per 10 liters of water, three times

Start the treatment at the first sign of the disease and repeat every 7-10 days, especially carefully treat the underside of the leaves. It is necessary to carry out at least 3-4 treatments.

Preparations: pure flowers, fast, rayok are ineffective against downy mildew.

powdery mildew

A common plant disease caused by fungi of the species Podosphaera fuliginea, Erysiphe cichoracearum and Oidium - powdery mildew on oidium grapes.

Symptoms: at the beginning of the disease, small mealy spots appear on the flowers and leaves. They are easily erased, but then reappear and increase in size, becoming a rich gray color. Gradually, the mycelium thickens and becomes almost brown. Powdery coating can be on both sides of the sheet. The leaves gradually dry up, the buds and flowers crumble, the growth of the plant stops. The most favorable conditions for the development of the disease are high humidity - about 60-80% and warm air within 15-26°C.

From domestic plants, powdery mildew most often affects: laurel, Saintpaulias, gloxinia, roses, gerberas, Kalanchoe, etc.

Prevention

To prevent powdery mildew of indoor plants and flowers, pollination with sulfur can be carried out 3-4 times during the summer. Overfeeding plants with nitrogenous fertilizers, especially during the budding period, increases the risk of powdery mildew. On the contrary, top dressing with phosphorus and potash fertilizers increases the resistance to the powdery mildew pathogen. You should also ventilate the room more often, avoiding cold drafts. Pay attention to the bushes and trees that grow under your windows, if they show signs of a disease, you constantly need to be on the alert - the spores of the fungus are easily carried by the wind.

In addition to sulfur treatment, preventive spraying with whey (backwash) can be carried out. Ordinary whole milk will do, but whey is preferable (less traces on the leaves), you need to dilute with water in a ratio of 1: 3 and spray the plants. For prevention, repeat after 2 weeks.

Fighting powdery mildew at home

If powdery mildew has got on indoor flowers, and violets (Saintpaulias), potted gerberas, indoor roses are especially susceptible, then you can use the same means as for garden plants, except for highly toxic ones (bayleton), but preference should be given to fungicides such as topaz, fast.

You can use the preparations Chistotsvet, Skor, Rayok - they are all available in small packaging, contain difenoconazole, dilute 2 ml per 5 liters of water. For fruit trees, vegetables and berries, dilute 2 g per 10 liters of water, maximum 4 treatments: the first - on a green cone, the rest - after 12-14 days, stop treatments 20 days before harvesting.

It is safe enough to spray powdery mildew at home with a solution of soda ash and copper sulfate: dilute 10 g of soda ash and 2 g of soap (household, tar) in 1 liter of water, dissolve 2 g of copper sulfate separately in a glass of water. Pour the copper solution into the soda solution, add water to a liquid volume of 2 liters and spray the plants.

If you heard from someone a recipe for fighting powdery mildew with antibiotics, do not try to repeat it, penicillins, tetracyclines and other antibiotics do not work on fungal infections, in last resort, will help from bacteriosis, but no more.

You can use drugs such as Topaz, Vectra, Hom, Oksikhom, Bordeaux liquid (1%). How to get rid of powdery mildew on gooseberries, currants, roses and other garden crops - read more:.

Spraying with a solution of iodine helps as a preventive measure and treatment: dilute 1 ml of an alcohol pharmaceutical tincture of iodine in 1 liter of water. Roses can be increased in concentration - dilute 1 ml per 400 ml of water.

Septoria

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Septoria.

Symptoms: dark brown or dark gray spots with a yellowish border (on anthurium) or, as on azaleas, small reddish or reddish-yellow spots that gradually increase. Then blackening appears on the spots in the center - the fruiting organs of the fungus, which can even overwinter on the leaves at sub-zero temperatures and the disease will begin to spread in the spring. Some forms of septoria have different manifestations (depending on the type of plant):

Pathogen Septoria albopunctata - looks like small 2-5 mm reddish-purple or brown spots with a gray center. With the development of the disease, the spots increase, and in the center of some of them you can see small dark brown or black spores of the fungus. Over time, the spots merge, turn brown, and the leaf dries out. Ideal conditions for the development of the disease are high humidity and temperatures in the range of 28-31 °.
The causative agent Septoria populi - the so-called white spot, first causes the formation of small whitish or gray spots with a brown rim around the edge, round or oval.

Prevention

Removal of leaves with suspicious spots, disinfection of the earth, seed dressing. With signs of a manifestation of the disease, it is necessary to stop spraying the leaves, improve air circulation (ventilation).

Treatment of septoria

When the spots have already appeared and spread further, it is necessary to spray using chemicals: among them, popular in gardening, a 1% solution (100 g of copper sulfate + 100 g of lime per 10 liters of water, dilute strictly according to the instructions), a solution of copper oxychloride (hom , oksikhom), copper sulfate (100 g per 10 liters of water). As well as:

colloidal sulfur 50-100 g per 10 liters of water
strobi in a system with other fungicides, 4 g per 10 liters of water
abiga-peak 40-50 g per 10 liters of water
fungicides: pure flower, fast, rayok, discor, keeper - any dilute 4 ml per 5 liters of water
Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Repeat spraying after 7-10 days.

Gray rot

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Botrytis Botrytis.

Symptoms: most often the affected areas are on the stems in the form of a fluffy grayish-olive coating. With further development, the disease passes to the leaves, ovaries of flowers and fruits.

Over time, the lesion takes the form of dry rot with concentric spots. After a few days, the spot grows and rings the stem. For the first week, there is no sporulation of the fungus on the spot, it turns pale in the center to a straw color, blurry ring-shaped stripes become visible. Gray rot looks like gray loose cotton wool or mold. Inside the stem, tissue necrosis develops, while the vessels die, and the movement of water stops. Escape above this zone withers.

Prevention

Prevention measures include soil disinfection during transplantation (heating in the oven or microwave), regular ventilation of rooms, removal of dying leaves and thinning of seedlings, good lighting. Avoid waterlogging the soil, especially when kept cool, if the flowers are on the balcony in early spring or late summer - autumn. When transplanting, trichodermin, barrier, barrier or phytosporin preparations can be applied to the soil (spill the soil).

Control measures

At the first sign of the disease, remove diseased leaves and inflorescences. Sprinkle the affected area with charcoal powder, chalk or wood ash. You can make a paste from the preparation of trichodermin (moisten a small amount of powder with water) and smear the affected areas in the same way. Spraying with a solution of topsin-M (0.1%) or a solution of phytosporin (dilute to the color of tea). In case of severe damage, spray:

(0,2%)
copper-soap solution: 0.2% copper sulfate and 2% laundry soap
fungicides: pure flower, fast, rayok - dilute any 4 ml per 5 liters of water

Repeated treatments are carried out after 7-10 days.

sooty fungus

Appears in the form of a dry sooty film on aukuba, buksus, laurels. It is caused by the fungus Capnopodium, which settles on the secretions of aphids, whiteflies, and mealybugs. By itself, the plaque is not dangerous for the plant, but it clogs the stomata on the leaves, thereby disrupting the respiration process. The plant slows down growth and weakens.

Control measures: timely spraying from pests that form sweet secretions (aphids, scale insects, thrips). After curing diseases, wipe the affected plants with a sponge dipped in soapy water, rinse with warm clean water, treat with phytosporin: take a liquid or paste and dilute in a glass of water until the color of weak tea. Spray the leaves.

Sometimes a sooty fungus settles on the surface of leaves affected by other fungi, carefully examine the nature of the spots, put the plant in quarantine.

leaf rust

The causative agent is rust fungi, for example, the genus Phragmidium or Puccinia.

Symptoms: are expressed in the appearance of orange-brown tubercles on the upper surface of the leaf, sometimes yellow or red round spots. On the reverse side of the leaf, pustules are clearly visible - pads (like warts) of an oval or round shape. Gradually, the spots develop into stripes, the leaves turn yellow and fall off.

Prevention

The disease is provoked by uneven watering and high humidity, but even with good care infection is possible at home through cut garden flowers or with new store-bought potted plants, such as gerberas. The infection can also get with garden soil, because rust often affects apple or pear trees.

Control measures

Remove affected leaves and branches. Apply fungicide spray:

abiga-peak 50 g per 10 liters of water
bayleton 1 g per 1 liter of water
Vectra 2-3 ml per 10 liters of water
10 g per 1 liter of water
oxychom 15-20 g per 10 liters of water
ordan 20 g per 5 liters of water
strobe
4 ml per 10 liters of water
hom 40 g per 10 liters of water

Repeat the treatment 2-3 times in 10 days. Biological products do not help against rust: phytosporin, bactofit, etc.

Phyllosticosis (brown spot)

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Phyllosticta. Of the domestic flowers, hibiscus, roses, orchids, etc. are susceptible to the disease.

Symptoms: Small dark reddish or dark purple dots first appear on affected plants. They enlarge and turn into brown spots with a purple, almost black border around the edge. The middle of the spot becomes thinner, dries up and falls out in plants with non-leather leaves, holes are formed. When viewed through a magnifying glass, black rounded spores can be seen on the brown areas of the spot. The disease spreads with the wind, undisinfected soil, water drops.

Orchid phyllosticosis manifests itself in small spots about 2 mm in diameter, dark brown, slightly depressed, holes do not form, the disease is often called "black spotting", since the leaf is dotted with small spots like a rash - the spots do not merge into large ones, remain loose, but the leaf turns yellow, and then the spores of the fungus become noticeable. The disease spreads quite quickly, as orchids are often in an atmosphere of high humidity.

Prevention

Compliance with the rules of care and hygiene - timely watering if necessary, but not more often, pour water only under the root, water should not fall on the root collar, in the axils of the leaves. Use only warm water for irrigation, without chlorine and salts (iron, calcium). Make sure plants get enough light, weakened chlorosis leaves are more susceptible to infection. Ventilate the house or rooms, avoiding drafts. Ventilation must be very good - an indicator of proper ventilation - the absence of mold in the bathroom, the perimeter of the window frame, the corners of the rooms. Observe the temperature regime, take into account the species requirements of orchids and other plants - a deviation from the norm and the usual care weakens the immune system.

Treatment of phyllosticosis

Vectra fungicide - dilute 2-3 ml of the drug in 10 liters of water
abiga-peak - 50 g per 5 liters of water
strobi - 4 g per 10 liters of water
oxychom 20 g per 10 l of water
fungicides: pure flower, fast, rayok, discor, keeper - any dilute 1 ml per 1 liter of water
Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Spraying at the first signs of the disease or prophylactic, then subsequent with an interval of 7-10 days. In some plants, you can safely remove the affected leaves (for example, in hibiscus), in orchids, do not rush to cut the affected areas to healthy tissue, this can further weaken the plants. You can cut the leaf only when it has already turned yellow. The rest is treated by spraying.

root rot

This is a group of diseases caused by a number of pathogenic fungi of the genera: Pythium, Rhizoctonia, Phytophthora and others. All these diseases sooner or later appear on the crown, tops of plants, but infection begins through the root system. If the pathogen is serious, and the plant is young (cutting, seedling, seedling), then the leaves do not even have time to start turning yellow - the roots and the lower part of the stem quickly rot.

Orchids, saintpaulias, cacti and succulents are most susceptible to root rot. The reason is a violation of agricultural technology.

The black leg is the scourge of seedlings, manifested in the decay of the lower part of the shoot, the cutting. Rot is the most typical - blackening, softening of tissues. A very part of the black leg affects when the soil is waterlogged, poor aeration, if the clods of earth are so dense that an anaerobic environment is constantly around the roots. The source of infection is unsterilized earth mixtures, inventory, pots and seedling boxes after diseased plants.

late blight

This is a type of root rot. In this case, the plant first slows down growth, fades somewhat, the leaves lose color, become pale, only then the roots rot and the plant dies. The first impression with this disease is that the plant does not have enough water, but after watering the turgor is not restored, and the leaves fade even more. In plants with dense leaves, the leaves do not fade, but are covered with extensive brown spots that start from the central vein.

Prevention

Choose the right soil for your plants, add more porous, draining materials to structure the soil. Do not use fine river sand or sand from a children's sandbox (quarry) - it cements the earth mixture! Use small pebbles with a particle size of 3-4 mm, such as can be bought in specialized departments and aquarium stores, or sift river pebbles. When planting, add a drug to the plant pot

Make sure that the soil does not become waterlogged, water after an acceptable degree of drying: if it is indicated that watering is plentiful, it means that the soil in the pot should have time to dry by about 1/2 or 1/3 of the upper part of the pot by the next watering. If you dip your finger into the ground, you will find that the soil is dry on top, and the inside of the pot is slightly wetter (cooler) - then you can water.

If moderate watering is recommended for the plant, then the soil should dry out completely - if you dip your finger into the pot, it should also be dry inside (the finger does not feel that it is cooler, wetter). Of course, you should not stick your fingers into the ground before each watering. Just wait for the soil to dry on top and wait another 2-3 days before watering so that it has time to dry in depth. And if it suddenly gets colder and the temperature drops, you may need to wait even longer - 5-7 days before the next watering.

To propagate indoor plants, cut off only healthy cuttings and leaves. Be sure to sterilize the ground for planting cuttings, especially if you are breeding plants that are very susceptible to late blight and root rot (for example, Gesneria, gardenia, shefflera). Old, already used pots in which the plants died must be scalded with boiling water.

Before planting, soak the seeds in a disinfectant, use, for example, the drug maxim.

Control measures

With a large development of root rot, when a significant part of the roots died off, and most of the shoots drooped, lost their elasticity, treatment is useless. If the tip of the petiole or twig has blackened on rooting, it can be cut off, drop phytosporin into water and put on rooting again.

If the plant shows signs of wilting, while the soil is damp, it is urgent to remove the plant from the pot. Rinse the root system, remove rot. If healthy roots are still preserved, treat them (soak for a few minutes) in a fungicide solution:

Alirin B - 2 tablets per 10 liters of water
Hamair - 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
ordan 5 g per 1 liter of water
3 ml per 2 liters of water
baktofit 10 ml per 5 l of water
oxychom 10 g per 5 l of water
hom 20 g per 5 liters of water
Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

spotting

This is a whole group of diseases that are both fungal and bacterial in nature.

Pathogens - fungi genera Ascochyta, Colletotrichum, Phyllosticta, Pestalotia, Septoria, Vermicularia and others. Spotting is a disease whose causative agent is difficult to identify, it can be anthracnose, septoria, phyllostictosis, ascochitosis, but the specificity of the spots is not pronounced. At the same time, brown spots appear on the leaves of the plant, which grow in size with the spread of the disease, merge and affect the entire leaf. If the plant is strong enough, resistant to diseases, or very well cared for, the spots grow slowly and the leaves dry out also slowly.

Prevention of spotting

Contribute to the development of diseases violations of conditions of detention. This waterlogging is especially aggravated by hypothermia of the root system (after watering cold water or when transporting home from the store during the cold season). Spotting can also develop in warm, humid conditions, especially with poor air circulation and planting in dense clay soil.

Avoid large plant crowds and excessive watering. Regularly ventilate the room, greenhouses and provide good lighting. For prevention, water the plants with a solution of the drug or bactofit. Can be added to pots when planting tablets of the drug.

Control measures

In garden conditions, any plant debris with stains from dead plants should be collected and destroyed. Prune affected leaves and branches from houseplants. Spray with fungicides that can deal with most fungal infections.

abiga peak 50 g per 10 liters of water
acrobat MC 20 g per 5 l of water
oxychom 20 g per 10 l of water
hom 40 g per 10 liters of water
alirin-B 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
Vectra 3 ml per 10 liters of water
1% solution of Bordeaux liquid (100 g of copper sulfate + 100 g of lime per 10 liters of water diluted)
copper sulfate: 100 g per 10 liters of water
Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

At home, indoor flowers from spotting should be tried to be treated with more affordable and simple means: use Chistotsvet, Skor, Rayok - they are all available in small packaging, contain the same active ingredient - difenoconazole, you need to dilute 2 ml per 5 liters of water. Spray the leaves with the solution, repeat after 2 weeks. Add zircon to the solution of these fungicides Chistotsvet, Skor, Rayok (6 drops per 1 liter of solution).

Red burn

The causative agent is a fungus of the genus Stangospora Staganospora. A disease characteristic of hippeastrums and some bulbous.

Symptoms: red narrow spots appear on the leaves and peduncles, on which spore-bearing crusts subsequently form, the scales of the bulbs completely turn red. In a diseased plant, the deformation of leaves and flowers begins, flowering does not begin or stops, the bulbs rot.

Treatment

Treatment of bulbs in fungicides. You can use the drug maxim (soaking the bulbs), but it can cause burns of the primordia of the leaves and peduncle - their tips have a very thin epidermis. The third photo - burns from the drug maxim, although the bulbs are cured, the burns will remain.

You can treat the red burn of hippeastrum with other fungicides:

fundahol (benomyl) 1 g per 1 liter of water
Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water
oxychom 4 g per 1 liter of water

black spot

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Rhytisma, Dothidella.

Symptoms:

Rhytisma acerinum - causes the formation of large rounded spots, initially yellowish and blurry. Then black dots appear on them, which gradually merge and form black shiny stroma (nodules), surrounded by a yellowish border. Sometimes there may be no yellowing around the black stroma.
Rhytisma salicinum - causes similar lesions, only the spots are more convex, more angular in shape, large and small.
Rhytisma punctatum - causes the appearance of small, dotted or teardrop-shaped, shiny black and bulging stroma.
Dothidella ulmi - causes the formation of grayish-black, rounded stroma; they are convex, at first shiny, later - rough, like warts.

A combination of conditions contributes to the spread of the disease: high humidity, shading and high temperatures.

Control measures

Spraying with fungicides:

abiga peak 50 g per 10 liters of water
acrobat MC 20 g per 5 l of water
benomyl (foundazol) 1 g per 1 liter of water
Vectra 3 ml per 10 liters of water
oxychom 20 g per 10 l of water
hom 40 g per 10 liters of water
alirin-B 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Spraying three times in 10 days.

Tracheomycosis

Tracheomycosis is a group of diseases called vascular wilt- pathogens enter through the roots and affect the vascular system of plants, clog the lumen of blood vessels with their mycelium, release toxins, the plant does not receive water and nutrients and begins to fade.

Tracheomycoses include diseases such as:

verticillium wilt (verticillium wilt)
fusarium wilt (fusarium)
malsecco in citrus

The symptoms are very similar, all diseases are diagnosed only in the laboratory, all are incurable, they are detected at the stage when pathogenic fungi have already poisoned the vascular system, this is something like blood poisoning in animals. Particularly affected by tracheomycosis are orchids, phalaenopsis, dendrobiums, cattleyas, etc. From other indoor flowers: fuchsias, roses, balsam, begonias, geraniums; from garden: petunias, carnations, chrysanthemums, asters, dahlias. Vegetables prone to tracheomycosis: cabbage, celery, cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, lettuce, melons, potatoes, pumpkin, radishes, rhubarb.

There are also plants resistant to tracheomycosis: saintpaulia, ageratum, gypsophila, mallow, periwinkle, primrose, zinnia, asparagus, ferns, philodendrons. Of the vegetables, only corn and asparagus can resist.

In foreign practice, all tracheomycotic wilts are simply called: wilt - from wilt - to fade.

verticillium wilt

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Verticillium. It reproduces exclusively asexually - by conidia, infects plant roots and poisons xylem tissues: it grows and reproduces systemically throughout the plant.

Symptoms: in the initial stages of the disease, the lower leaves acquire a grayish-greenish color due to the development of interveinal necrosis. The leaf tissue between the veins turns brown and dries out. Then wilting begins, most of the leaves, starting from the bottom, turn yellow, curl and dry. On the section of the stem, browning of the vessels is noticeable. Vessel lumens are filled with thin multicellular mycelium. Plants lag behind in growth, develop poorly, then die. Sometimes the disease manifests itself on the plant in the drying up and death of individual branches of the bush. If the conditions are favorable, then the disease passes to other branches and the whole plant dies rather quickly. If there are unfavorable conditions for the development of the fungus, then the disease can last for months and part of the plant looks healthy, and part dies off.

The pathogen persists in the soil in the form of microslerotia for several years. The optimum temperature for germination of sclerotia is 25-27°C, humidity 60-70%. The development of the fungus is most likely on soil with a neutral pH value = 7-7.5. The spores of the fungus germinate and penetrate the conductive tissue, where mycelium develops, causing clogging of blood vessels. Since there is a gradual clogging of the vessels from the bottom up, the wilting of the leaves begins with the lower leaves and gradually covers the entire plant.

Prevention

Do not use garden soil for indoor plants without pre-treatment: pour on a baking sheet with a layer of 5 cm, heat at maximum temperature for 20 minutes. Disinfect seeds by heating and disinfectants (for example, fungicide maxim)

Control measures

Chemical agents, due to the peculiar biology of the pathogen (development in the soil and distribution through conductive vessels), are ineffective. Treatment is possible only in the initial stages, by spraying with foundationazole, vectra (3 ml per 10 l of water) or topsin-M at a concentration of 0.2%.

Fusarium (fusarium wilt)

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Fusarium.

Fusarium develops only on weakened plants, primarily in dying areas. The course of the disease can take place according to the type of tracheomycosis wilt or with rotting of the roots. Plants are affected at any age. The fungus is found in the soil and enters the plant through soil and wounds, with water from natural sources, non-sterile tools during grafting or pruning. The increased humidity of air and soil contributes to the spread of the disease.

Symptoms: In young plants, the disease manifests itself in the form of rotting of the roots and root neck. In these places, the tissues turn brown, the stem becomes thinner, the leaves turn yellow. In affected plants, the tops of the shoots wither (loss of turgor), and then the entire shoot. This happens, as in the case of infection with verticillosis, due to blockage of blood vessels by toxins and enzymes secreted by fungi. Therefore, the darkening of the vessels is also visible on the transverse section. But sometimes tracheomycosis appears only on part of the crown, the rest remains healthy for the time being - then the bush or tree is oppressed, individual branches droop. If you cut off (the cut is clean without darkening) cuttings from healthy branches during the time, you can root and get a healthy plant.

The rate of the course of the disease depends on how favorable the conditions are for the development of the fungus. With high soil and air humidity, as well as temperatures above 18 ° C, the disease can destroy the entire plant in a few days. If the humidity is lowered, then the disease can become chronic, then the plant slowly fades within 3-4 weeks.

Control measures

Removal and destruction of the plant along with a clod of earth. Disinfection of pots with a 5% solution of copper sulfate, bleach, or at least scald with boiling water.

If wilting has just begun, then you can try to treat the plant with fungicides:

Vectra 3 ml per 10 liters of water
benomyl (foundazol) 1 g per 1 liter of water for orchids can be 1 g per 100 ml
alirin B 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Spraying three times, with an interval of 7-10 days.

How to treat orchids: get rid of the old substrate (throw away or boil the bark for at least half an hour). Cut off rotten roots. Prepare a fungicide solution, and carefully spray the root system and leaves. Leave to dry. Plant in a fresh substrate (large pieces of bark, foam, cork). Do not spray, water by dipping as needed for a short time (5 minutes is enough). It is advisable to keep diseased orchids at a temperature of 23-24 ° C, without drafts, with very intense but diffused lighting (possible under lamps).

The soil for large plantings (growing seedlings and transplanting tub plants) can be prepared by shedding it properly, with a solution of potassium permanganate (pink), Maxim, or applying trichodermin. When working, sterilize tools - a knife, scissors and even garter material (wire, thread) with alcohol.

The date palm is one of the most common and attractive indoor ornamental plants and belongs to the palm family.

Despite the unpretentiousness of this plant, the date palm, like many other indoor plants, is often exposed to various pests and diseases.

To prevent the occurrence date palm diseases and pests, it is very important to be able to recognize them, know the causes of their occurrence and take all necessary measures in time.

The main pests that cause diseases of the date palm

The red spider mite is one of the most dangerous and difficult to remove pests of indoor plants. The most favorable conditions for its development are high temperature and dry air. A small tick (up to 0.5 mm) infects the plant most often in spring, damages the stem (with severe infection and leaves), biting into the skin, after which yellowish or gray spots remain on them, the leaves and stem crack and die. In the later stages of the lesion, the entire plant is covered with cobwebs and dies.

Mealybug - is a sucking insect that settles in the axils of the leaves and forms large clusters on the youngest shoots and leaves of the plant, sucking the juice out of them, greatly delaying the development and growth of plants. The infected plant is covered with a white coating that looks like a cobweb.

thrips- an insect that damages indoor plants and causes diseases of the date palm by laying eggs in leaf tissue. This pest stays on the plant in large groups along the veins located on the underside of the leaves. Brown-brown spots appear on the underside of the damaged leaves, and whitish on the upper side. With a large-scale infection, the leaves turn yellow, dry and fall off, subsequently the date palm dries.

Treatment and prevention of date palm diseases

The methods of pest removal, prevention and treatment of any date palm disease caused by pests are the same. For mechanical removal of the pest, it is necessary to wash the surface of the leaves with warm soapy water and irradiate with an ultraviolet lamp. Next, spray with water and pollinate the plant with pyrethrum powder or ground sulfur. You can get rid of the date palm disease caused by pests by spraying the plant five times with an aqueous solution of pyrethrum, actellik, phosphamide, fitoverm or fosalone (2 g per liter of water, the interval between sprayings is 7 days).

A radical method of combating any type of pest is considered to be the treatment of a plant with medical alcohol - wiping it with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol or spraying with a fine spray. Measures to prevent the appearance of pests are regular washing and spraying of plants with water in the summer to prevent dry air, regular thorough inspection of the plant, removal of dry leaves and keeping the plant clean. Date palm from the stone.

Fungal and bacterial diseases of the date palm

Date palm diseases can be caused by various viruses, bacteria and fungi. With viral diseases, a mosaic pattern appears on the leaves of plants, and with fungal and bacterial diseases, putrefactive diseases appear. The most dangerous disease is rot, which appears in most cases in winter - at low air temperatures and at the same time high soil moisture. When rot appears, palm leaves become soft, lose color and fall off, the stem also becomes soft, which leads to the inevitable death of the plant.

Quite often, such a fungal disease as gray spotting occurs, in which old leaves are damaged first of all, irregularly shaped gray spots and a large number of small black dots with fungal spores form on them. The treatment of date palm diseases consists in removing the affected parts of the plant and treating the entire plant with fungicides - this will save the life of the plant.

When a plant is infected with viruses carried by insects, there are no radical control measures, so you can only improve plant care. In case of severe damage, the diseased plant will have to be destroyed along with the soil, the dishes must be disinfected. To prevent the spread of date palm diseases to healthy plants, it is necessary to carry out chemical treatment twice a year with preparations designed to combat pathogens and pests.

Exotic cultures are often famous for their beautiful and unpretentious "character". But, unfortunately, palm diseases at home cannot be called a rarity. Such a tragedy in the life of a plant is the result of improper flower maintenance. Therefore, the main task of the grower should be the creation of a favorable microclimate, as close as possible to the tropical. Initially, it is worth taking care of the humidity of the air, since the heat-loving tree does not tolerate dryness around the green mass. In 9 out of 10 cases, this is what leads to death.

Leaf dieback is a natural process for most plants. In a palm tree, a majestic trunk is formed from these scars. Nevertheless, its indoor varieties should be kept green for as long as possible.

Carrying out preventive measures will help protect a small greenhouse from the harmful effects of pathogenic microorganisms. However, there are situations when the plants still show signs of severe ailments. Then you need to look for the causes of their occurrence, and then organize a competent treatment session.

Common palm diseases at home

All problems start with improper watering. Although the culture is in dire need of life-giving moisture, it is not excessive. Otherwise, an irreversible process of decay will begin. There is another extreme - overdrying the soil. As a result, the foliage turns pale, takes spots, stops growing and fades. But these are just some of the manifestations of the disease. Now it is important to know what they are and how to save your "beauty" from them.

The basic rule of care is daily spraying. In this case, the leaves should be washed periodically. They do this very delicately, since in some varieties the greens are covered with a wax coating / fluff (a manifestation of a protective reaction). If you erase it, the sheet will die. The liquid temperature should not exceed 30°C.

Brown "attack"

Most often, flower growers begin to sound the alarm when brown spots appear on palm leaves. Pigments differ only in shape and size. The spotting process begins with small round formations. As they progress, they increase in diameter, acquiring angular contours. This happens for the following common reasons:

stagnation of water in the soil or its waterlogging;
use for watering hard, as well as cold water;
low temperature in the containment room.

If you make changes in these 3 directions, you can significantly improve the condition of the flowerpot. The daily portion of watering is reduced by 2 times. Use water either rain or settled (12-24 hours). Damaged parts are recommended to be removed.

Spray the leaves only with warm liquid and until water starts to flow from them. This is the first sign that the deciduous plates have gained enough moisture.

The reason that the leaves become stained and dry out may be pests, such as spider mites. In addition, web garlands will appear on the trunk. Therefore, the grower should arm himself with a soap or actellik solution. Sometimes one treatment is enough, but for reliability, it is better to do 2-3 with an interval of 7-14 days.

"White leprosy" - signs of penicillosis

The causative agent of a terrible disease are fungal spores that live in the soil. Although they are so far away, they still hit exactly the top of young shoots. First, dried areas of a dark color appear, and after 1.5 weeks a white coating appears on the palm leaves. As a result, the green mass is terribly deformed.

To successfully fight the fungus, it is important to know its nature. Being in the ground, it feeds on organic residues that have not had time to decompose. As soon as the immunity of the culture weakens, pathogenic organisms move to young greens. Mold on a palm tree also appears in such cases:

humidity exceeds 70-80%;
planting an infected specimen or which has been damaged;
keeping in a room with a temperature below + 17 ° C;
use of soil with colonies of the fungus;
placing the flowerpot in direct sunlight.

Improper irrigation technology serves as a favorable environment for the development of penicillosis. Thus, liquid must not be allowed to enter the growing point.

To begin with, the listed causes of the development of palm disease are eliminated at home. Then cut off the leaves affected by spores. Next, all the greens are treated with a fungicide. The procedure is repeated if the symptoms reappear.

How to deal with rot?

Another consequence of plant damage by fungal spores is rotting of the stems or root system. As noted, microorganisms develop only in a humid environment. Answering the question why the palm tree rots, again you have to remember the reason for too abundant and frequent watering.

Mineral deficiency or a sharp temperature drop also leads to the development of a terrible disease.

The situation can only be corrected. It is advisable to carry it out at the initial stage, when the foliage is just beginning to turn yellow or darken. In addition, the green mass becomes lethargic, drooping.
The resuscitation procedure is carried out in the following way:

shed a flowerpot;
carefully remove it from the pot;
remove festering, as well as withered roots;
for 15-20 min. immerse the culture in a fungicidal solution containing zinc or copper;
sprinkle slices with charcoal or activated charcoal (some use ground cinnamon);
the planting substrate is disinfected with steam or a solution of potassium permanganate;
after planting, the soil is shed with a fungicide suspension, after a week the action is repeated.

Gardeners note that the appearance of black dots on palm stems is caused by insufficient soil aeration. Therefore, it is important to always make good drainage at the bottom. But this is just one of possible causes their occurrence.

After such a cardinal event, watering is reduced. But only until the affected exhibit takes root. As soon as young sprouts appear on it, you can proceed to the standard rules of care.

When a palm tree becomes a petting zoo

Shield and false shield

If small tubercles / droplets (from 2 to 5 mm) of a brown hue protrude on the leaves, then the scale insect has come to visit. Her diet is fresh plant juice. Because of this, the leaf area under them often becomes pale. If they are removed with a fingernail and crushed, then thick yellow mucus will flow out from the inside. Among other things, insects secrete a sticky coating, in the form of white dots on a palm tree. Regrettably, they can also appear on neighboring plants.

Some gardeners recommend treating the culture with an alcohol solution or water-oil emulsions. In parallel with this, you can replace the top layer of earth in a pot. Whether this will help or not largely depends on what stage of infection the flowerpot is at.

Mealybug

These insects are close relatives of the scale insects. Their diet is the same - culture juice. They differ only in oval shape (3-5 mm) and light color. The white larvae that appeared on the palm quickly increase in number and begin to settle in:

veins;
ovaries;
root system.

Using sprays, you must follow the instructions. If the sprayer is brought too close, then the concentrated preparation can damage the leafy plates.

regularly collect larvae;
remove severely affected leaves;
every 7 days, wash the greens with a soapy or alcohol solution (often mixed with onion or garlic juice);
use lepodocides - preparations of biological origin with toxic substances;
apply systemic insecticides that are absorbed by the culture and poison all the tissues of the flower (the worms eat them and then die).

Preparations with biologically active substances are applied only to infected foci, which are the habitat of the colony.

It is impossible to single out any universal drug or method of struggle. Often you have to experiment and apply several methods in turn. Yet experience shows that palm diseases can be successfully dealt with at home. It is only important to diagnose them correctly.

Fighting yellowing leaves - video

There are a variety of diseases of indoor flowers, some of them are complex, requiring a special approach in treatment and preventive measures in the future. Rust - a disease of indoor plants - a rare, but dangerous, capable of destroying a flower. The name of this flower disease is explained appearance lesions: red and brown spots appear on the leaves of domestic plants, slightly convex and as if fleecy. Actually, it's a fungus. Treatment of home flowers affected by it is long and complicated. Be sure to reconsider the conditions in which the plant is located, and the scheme of care.

Ficus, completely infected with rust, is very difficult to cure.

Rust on plants is not so difficult to recognize, the signs of this disease are specific, they cannot be confused or missed.

First, rust appears on the leaves and on the stems of house flowers. It looks like yellow-brown or red-brown convex spots of various sizes and shapes.
The spots increase in size, swell and form pustules. The leaves of diseased plants evaporate moisture intensively, the pustules quickly dry out, crack and burst. A “rusty” powder is poured out of them, which poses a serious threat to neighboring healthy plants. These are fungal spores that quickly spread through the air throughout the flower garden.
Then the spores completely cover the entire surface of the leaf and stems, appear on the flowers. Plants change color, become brown or brown.
Then indoor flowers begin to dry and lose leaves, if treatment is not started, the plants will die.

However, even if you start taking action, it is not always possible to save indoor plants from the disease. Therefore, it is better not to allow its appearance and development.

It is important to know: at a temperature not exceeding 10 degrees above zero, the incubation period of the disease lasts up to 20 days. If the temperature is above 18 degrees, then the incubation period is reduced to 7-14 days.

Reasons for the appearance

Rust is a fungal disease, and the fungus, as you know, loves to settle where it is humid, warm and dark. From this we can conclude that rust on plants appears if they are watered too often and abundantly, not ventilated and kept in the shade, away from direct sunlight or phytolamps.

It is especially dangerous to flood indoor plants with water in winter. Many flowers in the cold season fall into a dormant state until spring, they do not need frequent watering, as well as mineral supplements. If, in addition to this, the pot is near the battery, you should not be surprised at the appearance of such a plant disease.

Over-watering houseplants can lead to rust infestation.

Also, the development of the fungus can provoke the abuse of mineral fertilizers rich in nitrogen. In winter, they are not needed at all. And during the growing season and flowering of plants, you should strictly follow the instructions and do not make too high a concentration of fertilizer.

If pots with plants are on an open terrace, veranda or balcony, then the spores of the fungus can be carried by wind or insects. Sometimes seeds are already infected with rust. It is difficult to recognize this, often impossible at all. This is one of the reasons why the seeds should be treated with potassium permanganate before sowing. As well as containers with soil in which they will land.

Which indoor plants are affected more often than others?

In principle, rust can appear on indoor plants any kind. But certain varieties of fungus love more than others. In addition, there are house flowers that are more sensitive to fungus spores and are unable to fight it. The following ornamental crops should be protected from moisture and overheating with special care:

camellia;
fuchsia;
carnation;
cyclamen;
pelargonium;
rose flower;
geranium;
chrysanthemum.

A cameo sheet damaged by rust is no longer subject to treatment.

This fungus likes to settle on horticultural crops such as asparagus and citrus shrubs, and often it infects palm trees of various types.

Treat and prevent disease

In most cases, the flower garden suffers from rust due to the fault of the owners themselves - this means that they do not properly care for their plants. In order to prevent the formation and spread of the fungus in the spring, all flowers should be treated with a one percent solution of Bordeaux mixture.

What to do if a fungus nevertheless settled on the plant and its leaves began to rust? First of all, it is important to prevent infection of neighboring plants, even if the diseased flower can no longer be saved. Therefore, a sick flower must be immediately taken to a hotel room. Affected leaves break off every single one, even if they have only a few small specks of rust. Then they need to be burned away from the flower garden.

Bordeaux mixture is used to control rust on indoor and garden plants.

The flower itself can be treated with the same Bordeaux mixture. Or use sulfur dust. You can also prepare such a disinfectant mixture yourself:

heat 5 liters of purified water;
dissolve 200 g of green soap in water;
add 15 g of copper sulfate.

The room in which the potted plant is located must be well ventilated several times a day, and it is better to keep the window open at all times. Neither dry air nor high humidity should be allowed.

It is important to water the plant properly. The liquid should be added to the pan or to the ground, but so that the water gets under the root, and not on the leaves and flowers of the plant. If top dressing is used, then preference should be given to preparations containing potassium and phosphorus.

Copper sulfate is a component of a spray preparation that you can prepare yourself.

Beginner gardeners often confuse rust with any red spots on the leaves of plants and begin to spray the flower garden with various fungicides. As a result, many plants die from an improperly applied remedy. Therefore, if there is a suspicion that a plant is affected by a fungus, you should either familiarize yourself with high-quality photos of the symptoms and manifestations of the disease, or invite a knowledgeable person to inspect the plants and diagnose.

Rust can also manifest differently in different colors and cultures. On some flowers, it develops faster, on others it grows very slowly, for weeks and months. In any case, you need to treat the plant, the most important points in this process are to ensure a constant supply of fresh air and remove the affected parts of the flower. Treatment with a disinfectant solution is recommended to be repeated 10-12 days after the first spraying.