When to plant family onions. How to grow a good family onion

But it has its own distinctive features and advantages. In one mother's head, planted in the ground, a different number of onions are formed. Some varieties are able to divide only up to 10 heads, then each bulb turns out to be quite large. In others, up to 20 “residents” are placed in the nest, but in this case, the heads will be correspondingly smaller, on average from 15 to 65 grams.

Each head differs not only in volume, but also in appearance. They can be:

oblong
Stretched out
rounded
In the shape of a jug
ovoid
cuboid

The color of the upper husk varies from golden to bronze, from reddish to purple. When cut, the bulb may have a white structure or a pinkish tint. The green growth of splinters has a great advantage over all other varieties - it branches well and remains fresh, green and soft throughout the entire growth period. Each feather is individually waxed. In addition, feathers are much softer and superior in taste to other types. The taste of greens does not leave a sharp aftertaste and a specific aroma after consumption from the mouth.

The greens of the family onion are quite lush, stretching 30-45 cm. It can be cut off completely or pulled out of the nest together with the head. The plant will not suffer from this at all, on the contrary, the remaining tubers will receive more nutrients for development. Harvesting for greens can already be done after 14-21 days from the date of planting. If you plant a plant to obtain full-fledged tubers for food, then their ripening period is much less than the usual bulb. So the latter ripens at least 90 days from the moment of planting, while the family one is able to come up in 40-80 days.

A large number of different varieties have been bred for planting onions. But farmers are of the opinion that no matter how original and non-standard the type of onion is, it is best to plant local varieties.

The following varieties are distinguished, in which it is possible to obtain sufficiently large bulbs in the crop:

Knyazhich - the bulb consists of 7-10 heads, each reaches a maximum of 75 gr. The outer color is brown-pink. The inner pulp has a pinkish tint, causes a pleasant aftertaste. Under favorable storage conditions, it is capable of retaining its original appearance and taste for a long period.
White Queen - Up to 10 splinters grow in the head, each of which draws 70 gr. The upper scales are of a snowy-cream tone, the flesh also has a white tone, and the aftertaste is a combination of the original taste, both sweet and spicy.
Veliky Ustyug - grows in fertile soil in the amount of one head and reaches 6-10 splinters. But they are quite large, each has a weight of 80 grams. It has a vigorous, spicy taste, and is covered with a brown-red shell on the outside.
Water lily - in the nest of each head there are up to 5 onions, each of which resembles a jug. On average, their weight individually is at least 70 grams. The upper part is yellow-brown, the inside is white, when eating it gives off a sharpness.
Prometheus - gives large yields. Each head weighs an average of 80 grams. In terms of taste, it wins among all the others - soft, pleasant aftertaste. The color of the onion is yellow with a brown tint, the correct even rounded shape.
Grant - rich in thin, graceful feathers. Expels a large amount of greens, when weighed from one tuber, up to 200 grams are obtained. fresh feathers. The heads are yellow in color, rounded and flat in size. The family has from 4 to 11 children, whose average weight reaches 55-60 grams. for one beam.
Old Believer - his homeland is the Vologda region. External tone - copper with pink tint. The aftertaste will highlight a significant sharpness. Therefore, it is more used for cooking soups, as a fry or when stewing dishes.
Andreyka - are transverse elliptical heads. The husk is dark brown, and the inner flesh is pink. Taste is medium spicy. The weight of one splinter reaches 26 gr.
Albic - have a flat shape of a rounded diameter, are distinguished by a long storage period. Weight varies between 30-55 gr. the top is yellow. The pulp is spicy. Expels a large amount of greens suitable for fresh consumption.
Cascade - ripens early. Bulbs are small, reach 35 gr. in volume. They are shaped like a large egg. The upper shell is pink, and the inner shell is white with a slight pink tint. It is spicy when used.
Earring - in the nest there are up to 7 splinters. All of them are represented by a rounded view, weighing up to 70 grams. maximum. Taste qualities are noted as very sharp.

Thus, the variety of family onions is quite large. If you want to grow a new species, you can resort to a huge selection of varieties that differ both in appearance and in taste.

The cultivation of the "family" occurs both with seeds and with the help of bulbs. The latter method is simpler and more efficient. Especially when planting splinters, all maternal qualities are preserved in the grown crop.

Before starting planting work in the garden, it is recommended to prepare the bulbs for planting in advance:

For this purpose, each onion is placed in an oven and the temperature is set to 35 C. The heating time should be at least 7 hours. This procedure reduces the possibility of attachment of various pathogenic bacteria.
24 hours before the intended work, the torches are soaked in warm water, with a weak solution of Potassium Permanganate diluted in it. Thanks to the event, the splinters are disinfected, which leads to a decrease in the possibility of developing fungal diseases.

Landing is recommended to be done on fertile soils. You can choose a slightly heavier soil than for ordinary varieties of onions. From this, the torches will only be richer and better. The main quality of the prepared soil should be a drainage base. Be sure to control the pH of the medium on the soil. It is recommended that it be neutral.

It is best to plant the Family Onion on the ground in which it grew before, or legumes.

Soil preparation should be done in the fall. At this point, humus should be added to the soil - about 5 kg. In addition, saturate the earth with superphosphate (25 gr.) And potassium salt (15 gr.). Such top dressing should be carried out on 1 m2.

Family onions are characterized by increased frost resistance. With a strong decrease in temperature, the ground part of the bulb will not develop, but the root system is actively increasing its mass. Therefore, it can be planted at any time of the year.

Rhizomes actively develop at a temperature of +2..+25 C. At temperatures below -6 C, they simply stop their development until a favorable moment arrives. Greenery actively begins its growth at air degrees from +15..+25 C.

But at the same time, green feathers are not afraid of frost, they feel calm both in cold (-7 C) and in heat (from +35 C).

Thanks to these parameters, the most favorable time for landing should be allocated. It should be in time at such a moment that the root system builds up mass so that when warm weather sets in, it can nourish the growing feathers. Otherwise, if the bulbs are rooted at a temperature above +15 C, then the ground part will immediately grow. The disadvantage of this time is the active growth of greenery, but at the same time the lack of development of rhizomes, which will not be able to properly nourish the plant.

Before planting, it is recommended to distribute all the bulbs by size, after warming them up and disinfecting them. The best planting option is 10 cm between the torches, while the length between the rows should be at least 20 cm. The torches go deep into the ground during spring planting by 5 cm, and during winter planting by 8 cm deep into the soil.

From the moment of planting, you should wait for the emergence of seedlings 10 cm emerging from the ground. Only then start caring for the plant:

There is no need for watering and other care due to the fact that the plant must develop a root system and independently deepen the roots into the ground in search of underground water. Otherwise, the entire root system will be on the surface, will depend on the watering of the gardener.
After the emergence of seedlings, it is recommended to mulch the soil next to the seedlings. For this purpose, cut dry grasses or weeds removed from the site are used. It is best to use weeds. They are laid in a dense layer. After they dry, the soil will be covered with a dense porous layer. Thanks to such a mulch, during decomposition, the plant will receive nutrients into the soil, and the top layer will not allow the nutrient moisture to quickly evaporate from the soil, new weeds to grow, and the sun's rays to overheat the onion rhizomes.
Further watering is carried out 1 time in 7 days. For every 1 m2, at least 20 liters of water should be poured.
Additional fertilizer application is not required. But if it is noticed that the feathers have acquired a yellow tint, they began to fade, then ammonium nitrate in a volume of 10 grams should be added, as well as potassium salt (15 grams), diluted in 1 bucket of water. If cultivation is carried out on depleted soils, then top dressing should be applied 2 times. The first time at the time of intensive growth of the aerial part, and the second time at the time of the formation of the heads.

Identifying damage to the bow is quite simple. If the feather unusually began to turn yellow, you need to look inside for the reason. A worm that feeds on the internal juice of the plant can become a problem. It eats up the base of the feather, spoils the internal structure of the bulb. As a result, the root system begins to deteriorate and dry out. The feather begins to wither and die, and the bulb becomes soft and lethargic, with an unpleasant fetid odor.

Another dangerous pest for onions is the onion fly.

If the plant has been affected by fungal diseases, it should be sprayed with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture. But in this case, there is a pen, it is not recommended. If harvesting is planned, then pollination should be stopped 10 days before harvest.

Harvesting in most cases takes place in the second decade of July. A long stay of a splinter in the ground can provoke a bust with nutrient moisture, then the splinter will be loose, watery, unsuitable for storage. The event should be held at a time when half of the greenery has already withered and turned yellow. Before the planned harvest, watering is recommended to be completely stopped.

It should be dug out of the ground in the morning, at the moment when the fallen dew dries. Pick a sunny day for picking. Uprooting the splinters is done with a shovel. After that, shake off the soil, leave the splinter to dry in the garden.

In the evening, the crop is harvested and moved to a dark room with a cool temperature and low humidity.

You need to lay out all the torches in one layer. From that moment on, they are dried for 14 days. Qualitatively dried onions are determined by the dried upper husk, which departs well from the lower part. When the onion is ready, the tops are cut off. For long-term storage, only whole torches are selected, without visible damage and soft parts. Storage can be carried out in wooden boxes in vegetable stores or rooms with low humidity and cool temperature conditions.

Family onions have the same useful qualities as the rest of the onions. It contains a large amount of minerals and vitamins. In the autumn-spring period, it is the onion that saturates the body with the missing vitamins.

In most cases, it is used for cooking, frying when preparing first courses, and also as a dressing for stewing vegetables and meat. In addition, fresh onion feathers are great for use in salads. Onions are also used as a marinade. It can be frozen and taken out for serving if needed.

There are the following beneficial features family bow:

Strengthens the protective properties of the body, increasing its resistance to viral diseases.
With its nutrients, the torch affects blood pressure, reducing its performance, and also helps to strengthen the inner walls of blood capillaries.
The antioxidant substances contained in onions have a beneficial effect on the elimination of toxic substances from the body.
It can be used for eye diseases, as well as for diseases of the gastrointestinal tract. Effectively affects the digestive organs, quickly cleansing the intestines from stagnant feces and eliminating pathogenic microflora.

Therefore, the cultivation of family onions is not only due to the need for green feathers for consumption, but also to obtain nutrients for the treatment of certain types of diseases. For therapy, it is recommended to use either fresh ingredients or specially prepared ones, in which all elements useful for internal organs are preserved.

More information can be found in the video:

Picking a bunch of green onions in early spring is not a pleasure. For the owner of a country house or cottage, getting a feather for greenery is easy. A polycarbonate greenhouse will speed up the process.

Types and varieties of onions that give thick greens

Dense greens give multi-germ varieties. Consider the most productive varieties - a multi-germ variety that gives a large amount of feathers per season and popular varieties of shallots:

Cipuccio

Cipuccio is an early ripening, high-yielding shallot variety. Greens after planting can be cut in 2-3 weeks. The pen has original spicy taste. Bulb weight up to 50 g. Vegetation period 70 days.

Aristocratic

Aristocratic - shallots. From one sowing bulb in the nest, from 6 to 12 new pieces weighing from 50 to 100 g are formed. People call this species a family one.

The variety is early, full-fledged bulbs ripen in 70 days. Cut greens are ready in 4 weeks.

Variety Aristocratic is used to produce greenery on an industrial scale.

From one bulb of the Aristocratic variety, 6-12 new ones are formed.

Old Russian

Old Russian (red, yellow) - a type of shallot. Gives a powerful, bright green feather with a waxy coating. The seed material is stored well and for a long time (2 years). The variety is resistant to many diseases of bulbous crops. Up to 10 pieces are formed in the nest.

Reproduction is only vegetative, as arrows do not form. Gardeners consider this species the most cost-effective for forcing greens. Cut shallots are ready 20-30 days after planting.

Lilac ringing

Chives Lilac ringing is 7 kg greens per season from 1 sq.m. soil. The variety is early ripe, when grown in open field cutting is carried out after 20 days. During the summer, several cuts are made. The variety is frost-resistant.

Chives Lilac ringing

studgarten riesen

Studgarten Riesen is a multi-bearing, high-yielding variety with good immunity to most diseases. The productivity of the variety is high.

In the presence of 4-6 primordia in the seed from 1 square. m. receive up to 15 kg of greens.

When is the best time to plant onions outdoors?

For home consumption, turnip greens can be planted in open ground as early as the end of April, provided that the earth has warmed up and its temperature at night and in the morning is not lower than 12 degrees.

For commercial purposes, turnips for greens are grown in a greenhouse. If there is heating, distillation can be done throughout the year.

On an industrial scale, onions for greens are grown in greenhouses

The main thing you need to get a pen:

quality seed;
fertile substrate;
watering;
top dressing;
backlight.

A full crop of green feathers is obtained with 12 hours of daylight. For growing in greenhouses, select varieties with a short dormant period.

With long daylight hours, the optimum air temperature 18-22 degrees. Yield drops at lower temperatures. At higher air temperatures, product quality decreases.

How to plant sevok

There are proven methods for planting turnips on greens. Experienced gardeners successfully apply planting methods:

pavement;
tape.

Bridge landing method

In addition to the landing method, it is important choose the right place and prepare fertile soil (substrate) before sowing any variety.

Choosing a place to grow

Choosing a place for planting sevka on greens, take into account the principles of crop rotation.

Plant after crops:

cucumbers;
zucchini;
pumpkins;
cabbage;
tomato;
potatoes.

In the shade, the onion grows poorly, the feather is pale and thin. Ridges are better placed in an open, sunny place. During rains, it should not be stagnant moisture.

Proper soil preparation for planting

We prepare a bed for planting in the fall before planting. Determine the acidity of the soil. For acidity, add dolomite flour. Consumption - 50 g-sq. m. Onions love loose soils with a pH of 6.5 to 7.5.

With increased acidity of the soil, add dolomite flour

In the fall, for digging, add:

Humus ½ bucket;
Superphosphate 2 tbsp. l;
Potassium chloride 1 tbsp. l.

Consumption is per sq. m. Dig up the soil by 20 cm with a shovel or walk-behind tractor. In the spring, dig again and add urea 10 gsm m. 7 days before sowing, pour the ridge with a solution blue vitriol. Pour 10 liters of water into a watering can and dissolve 20 g of the drug in it.

Planting onions for distillation on a feather

A good green growth will provide high-quality seed material.

Before planting, the bulbs should be stored in a warm room. Before planting seed sevka in the garden, they need to be sorted out. Reject damaged copies. Sort by size. Bulbs give the highest feather yield. 2 to 4 cm diameter, weighing from 15 to 40 g.

For growing onions on a feather, it is best to choose bulbs 2-4 cm in diameter

The selected material must be moistened and kept in a warm room at an air temperature of 25 degrees for 48 hours.
a quarter length trim the tops at the bulbs.
Dissolve 30 g of ammonium nitrate in 10 liters of warm water (35 degrees), lower the bulbs into it for 16 hours.

Approximate seeding consumption with the bridge method 13 kg per sq.m. The consumption is large, because the bulbs are stuck into the ground tightly to each other. Aisles are not made. The advantages of this method are obvious:

the landing area is saved;
all the forces of the plant go to the formation of the feather.

The bridge method is especially beneficial to use to grow onions in greenhouses.

The tape method involves furrow formation at 10 cm intervals. The bulbs are placed in furrows close to each other or with a small indent of 1-2 cm. The furrows are covered with a thin layer of earth (2 cm).

Ribbon method of planting onions

Care rules

The main care of the crop in the open field is in the right watering. In its absence, the feather is bitter and thin. With an excess of bulbs rot, the crop suffers.

To maintain the required humidity, take into account the weather and check the soil moisture at a depth of 3 cm. It is tentatively recommended to water 2 times a week in the absence of rain.

Water only in the evening. This will eliminate unnecessary heating of the soil. Onions do not like high temperatures.

If the soil is prepared correctly and filled with organic matter and mineral fertilizers, top dressing can be omitted. With the tape method of planting, loosen the ground between rows, remove weeds.

When to harvest green onions

The crop is harvested, focusing on the length of the pen. There will be seedlings of the same length on the entire ridge if the seeds were calibrated in size before planting and sets of the same variety were planted.

The commodity size of onion feathers is 24-42 cm

For all varieties, the requirements for the length of the feather are the same. Commodity is considered the size from 24 to 42 cm. When this length is reached, the feathers are cut for sale or own consumption.

It does not take much time and effort to get a feather green for home consumption. Before you engage in forcing turnips into greens on a large scale, it is worth evaluating your capabilities on a small scale. Choose the most productive variety, master the technology of preparing planting material and soil. With the right approach, success is guaranteed.

Many do not plant family onions. The reason is that small bulbs grow. But if you know the agricultural technology of family onions, then you can grow bulbs of 150g or more.

Onion widespread vegetable crop of the onion family. Bulb onions are small-sized (1-2), medium-sized (2-3) and multi-sized (4-5 or more).
In the common people, multi-pronged bows are called family bows. Seven I am a lot.

The largest bulb of the family onion

Shallot onions should also be included here. This is a variety of onion multi-growth, but with a smaller bulb and delicate leaves. Immediately pay attention, not feathers, but leaves. Feathers are found in birds, while plants have only leaves.

With its exquisite taste, shallots are considered gourmet onions. These bows are often confused and called "who is in what much." Therefore, for convenience, we will call all these bows family.

Planting dates for family onions

Onion is a cold-resistant plant. Its root system grows intensively at a lower temperature than leaves. This biological feature makes it possible to plant at an earlier date.

The root system of onions develops at temperatures from + 2° to + 25°С, tolerates frosts down to minus 4-6°С. The onion leaf grows well at a temperature of + 15-25 ° C, withstands frosts down to minus 7 ° C and tolerates heat at + 35 ° C.

If you delay planting and the temperature of the air and soil is high, the leaves will immediately begin to grow. The root system will no longer be as powerful and this will affect the results.

If there is enough moisture in the soil during the period of leaf growth, the plant is in no hurry to form a storage organ. It continues to increase the number of leaves and their size, thereby creating the basis for the formation of a larger and larger bulb. The more powerful leaves on the plant, the larger the bulb will be (taking into account varietal characteristics).

With a lack of moisture, during the growing season, plant growth stops, and the bulbs begin to form at the stage in which they were caught by drought.

For normal onion growth, a water regime with reduced air humidity (60-70%) and high soil moisture is necessary. This culture makes especially great demands on water in the first period of growth, when the process of swelling and germination of planting material takes place, the leaf apparatus increases in volume, and the bulb begins to form. During the growth period, additional watering is required.

Family bows often reproduce vegetatively. Since several bulbs grow in the nest, some are left for planting. The rest go to food. And so every year.

Is it possible to plant family onions before winter?

Family onion is a completely adult and mature plant, despite the size of the bulb. A bow planted before winter shoots, even small ones. Partially, the bow can shoot at a very early planting in a cold, protracted spring. But this happens extremely rarely.

The Siberian Research Institute of Plant Growing and Breeding (SibNIIRS) has developed varieties that can be planted before winter. Of the varieties for winter planting, the following are recommended: Siberian yellow, SIR-7, Ryzhik, Sophocles, Seryozhka, Krepysh, Albik, Garant and a number of new Siberian hybrids. But these are not multi-pronged onions, but shallots.

Agrotechnics of family onions, features

To understand agricultural technology, it is necessary to imagine the structure of the bulb.

On the bottom of the family bows there is a heel - the place of attachment of the daughter bulbs to the bottom of the mother bulb.
If you cut off the heel, we will see the location of the roots, in the form of a horseshoe. The rudiments are visible on the transverse section.

Usually, for planting, I use a bulb weighing about 100g. If you plant a whole bulb, then all the buds will sprout, and > 8 medium-sized bulbs will grow. The amount depends on the variety. The larger the planting bulb, the more new bulbs are formed, but small ones.

How to grow a large family onion?

To grow large family onions, it must be prepared for landing. First of all, it must be cleaned from dry scales, to juicy ones. Various pathogens often hide under dry scales. Then the bulbs are pickled in a solution of copper sulphate -1st. spoon for 10 liters of water. Etching time 20 min. Pickled onions are rinsed with clean water.

During storage, the onion dries slightly and loses nutrients. To restore the supply of moisture and nutrients, onions must be soaked in nutrient solutions of any complex fertilizers.

To do this, cut off the heel, to clean white scales. Don't be afraid to cut off the excess. The beginnings themselves are deep. Even if one or two are damaged, there are many of them in the bulb. If two of the six rudiments are damaged, then the remaining four will give a decent harvest. Damaged buds do not grow. But it’s better not to injure much, cut off only the heel to the bottom. Removing dry scales and trimming the heel of the bottom facilitates the access of moisture, primarily to the roots, therefore, first of all, a powerful root system develops, which ensures strong plant growth.

I try to do without chemicals and use Humistar or Biohumus for soaking onions - 1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water. Soaking time 8-10 hours.

Then I put the onion in a bucket, close the lid and put it in any unheated room, until the roots grow (3 - 5 mm).

How to cut family onions before planting?

Now we need to cut it in half. Onions are cut not to increase the number of planting units, but to obtain larger bulbs in the crop. In each half, there will be a smaller number of primordia than in the whole bulb. Each half will grow 3-4 marketable bulbs. The feeding area will remain the same, and fewer bulbs will receive more nutrition.

We cut the onion into halves, trying to leave about the same number of roots on them.

In other words, after the heel is cut off, we turn the bulb 90 ° and cut it in the center of the “horseshoe” of the roots. I don't process cuts. They dry out a bit on their own.

Cut the whole onion

They cut the family bow. The bow is ready for planting.

Preparing the soil for planting family onions

After harvesting potatoes, I sow winter rye.

The whole next season, it grows to full ripeness, and leaves before winter.

I don't do anything in this area.
This is what the field looks like in the spring before planting.

Planting a family bow

The first time I come to the country at the very end of April or at the beginning of May. I try to plant onions faster, at least until May 5th.

According to the folk calendar, this is the day of Luke - onions day. So I plant onions to Luka. Sometimes April is warm and (if possible) I plant earlier. How ripe the soil is.

If you measure the temperature of the soil, then the most suitable + 5 ° C. You can do without a thermometer, just look, when the soil stops smearing, you can plant.

I have constant beds with a width of 0.9 m. Passages 0.5m.

In the spring I rake the straw into the aisles and slightly loosen the top layer of the bed with the Swift cultivator.

Then I make furrow grooves 3-5 cm deep at a distance of 20 cm from each other -15 cm-20 cm-20 cm-20 cm-15 cm. I spill the grooves with water from a watering can without a strainer.

I sprinkle moistened grooves with a mixture of ash and Zemlin (the same diazinon) from an onion fly, 1 liter of ash + 1 package of Zemlin is enough for 4 grooves 10 m long.

In the grooves I lay out the halves of the onion at a distance of 23 cm in a checkerboard pattern. It turns out landing in equilateral triangles with a side of 23 cm.

Planted onions spud with a rake on both sides, like potatoes.

Under these "dunes" it is warm and humid. Luke likes this.

The longer the day and the higher the temperature during growth, the more closed scales, the better the onion will be stored in the future, the deeper and longer its dormant period.

Family onion care

Until the leaf grows to 10 cm, I do nothing. I don't even water. Let the roots go deeper in search of moisture. I don't do any dressing. I don't spray anything. Didn't notice any pain.

Onions grow very quickly and it's time to mulch the beds. To mulch an onion bed, you need to chop up a decent bunch of organic matter.

Moisture is better preserved on mulched beds, and onions grow well. I mulch to the height of hilled rows (approximately 5 cm - 10 cm) with mowed weeds, immediately after crushing it, without drying it. Drying, the mulch covers the bed with a dense porous layer.

I water onions once a week. 200 liters of water goes to the garden. From the beginning of July, I stop watering.

At the end of June, the bulbs begin to separate and the number of bulbs in the nest can be counted. The optimal quantity is 3-5 pieces.

If the quantity exceeds 5 pieces, then you can normalize - remove the extra bulbs.

The remaining bulbs will grow larger. When to rake a family bow?- at the beginning of July. You can simply move the soil around with your finger. The bulb will be in full view. In the sun, the bulb will ripen faster.

Cleaning the family onion

End of July. The bow is ready to be harvested.

“It should be noted that there should be no delay in harvesting onions after leaf lodging, as this leads to an increase in losses during winter storage.

This is explained by the fact that the bulbs remaining in the ground absorb moisture from the soil, which activates growth processes and shortens the dormant period.

I pull out the onion when the dew dries. He lies on the beds all day long. In the evening I clean the attic. There, the harvested onion is ripened and dried. After drying, the leaves are sneezed by hand. I don't use scissors.

Even if it is damp and cold during harvesting, family onions ripen well and dry under the roof. Secondary germination does not threaten him. He has a long dormant period, which was confirmed by the past, far from hot summer.

After onions, I sow, all over the plot, peas - oatmeal mixture. Siderata from this mixture and go before the winter. In the spring I plant potatoes, right on the straw.

Storage of the family onion

I take the dried onions home, along with the entire crop.

This is how onions are stored for food. Onions for planting, different fractions, I store in separate boxes.

In the kitchen, the temperature is sometimes quite high, but the onions keep well. The storage temperature of the bow for planting is +19 +22 degrees, otherwise the bow will go to the arrow.

The family onion keeps well. In many ways, it is better than a simple onion. You just have to want to grow it.

Growing onions from sets.

Kazan. Tatarstan.

Many vegetable growers spare no effort in growing family onions and value it for its mild taste, long shelf life, yield, early maturity, and lack of tendency to shoot even when frosts. He got his name because of the peculiarities of development - a few more (nest) are formed around each planted bulb. The family also has a multi-growth onion with an ordinary round turnip, and a shallot (kuschevka), which has an elongated shape and a smaller size. The classic family bow is also popularly called blue. In many families, this variety is passed down from generation to generation. Gardeners note its increased resistance to diseases, as well as to damage by an onion fly.

In order for the turnips not to be too small, it is necessary to create certain growing conditions for the family onion. Experienced vegetable growers have learned already at the stage of preparing planting material to influence the size of future bulbs and their number.

Soil Requirements

Family onions, like other species, react extremely negatively to heavy and acidic soils. If clay and stony deposits prevail on the site, then at least a year before planting, sand, organic matter and mineral fertilizers, lime or dolomite flour must be added to the soil. If you plant a family onion in clay soil, then the output will be a nest of small turnips the size of a cherry, which will quickly dry out during storage.

Family onions develop well on light, crumbly soils with a uniform structure. An excellent folk way to make the soil looser is to add crushed eggshells to it. Experienced gardeners collect it all winter, and in the spring they grind it and plant it in beds along with compost or rotted manure (the latter - in the amount of 3-4 kg per 1 m2).

The place for planting family onions should be well ventilated and lit by the sun. This is important, because during the maturation period, almost the entire nest comes out of the soil.

Planting material preparation

Experienced vegetable growers know a number of features of preparing family onions for planting, so they get good results when growing it.

If you plant a whole large bulb, then a large “family” will form around it, all members of which will be very small, since many primordia will sprout.
This variety has a very hard "heel" - the root part. It is carefully trimmed to living white formations. This contributes to the speedy development and growth of the bulb, almost doubling the yield.
To get new large bulbs, the planting must be cut lengthwise into 2-3 parts so that each bud remains. You should be guided by the location of the roots on the bottom after trimming the “heel”: they are unevenly located, there should be several pieces on each of the parts of the bulb. On a properly made cut, the bottom looks bevelled.
Some cut off the top of the bulb almost "to the shoulders", but this will result in an abundance of feathers and a shallow root part.

If there is an unfavorable infectious background on the site (plants often get sick), then it is not recommended to plant cut bulbs. You can try this method on multiple instances first.

2-3 hours before planting, family onions with trimmed bottoms (but whole bulbs) are soaked in a pink solution of potassium permanganate (any fungicide is also suitable). To stimulate growth, preparations such as "Gumistar" ("Biohumus") are used, diluted in the proportion of 1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water. In this solution, the onion is soaked for 8-10 hours. Then the water is drained, the bulbs are cut, if this method of preparation is chosen, and planted in the garden. Some remove such seed material for several days in an unheated room in order to grow roots up to 3-5 mm, and only then plant it.

landing technique

The family bow is cold-resistant, but since it matures rather quickly (70-80 days), there is no need for early planting. Regarding the timing, vegetable growers are divided into two groups: some plant it in open ground until Luke's Day (May 5), others later. The soil should warm up to +5 ° C (it ceases to be "smeared").

The beds for family onions are usually made about a meter wide, grooves are cut along them 3-5 cm deep at a distance of 20 cm.

Landing is done in a checkerboard pattern so that at the exit of the onion they form equilateral triangles with ribs of about 23 cm each - a very convenient layout.

It is impossible to press the bulbs into the soil, since the roots on the cut bottoms will be damaged, the plant will hurt for a long time.

Care

Family onion care consists of watering, loosening, nest formation and top dressing (if necessary). If the soil is favorable for growing, then the chores are minimal.

Watering

Experienced vegetable growers recommend doing nothing until a few 10 cm feathers grow on the onion. So the root system will develop better in search of moisture. Then watering is done once a week. Moisturizing stops at the end of July. You can add ammonia to the water (2 tablespoons per 10-liter bucket). This will scare away the onion fly and at the same time serve as top dressing. Loosening after watering or rains is a must.

In order for the moisture to evaporate more slowly and weeds to be suppressed, it is advisable to mulch the beds with family onions by about 5 cm (to the height of the regrown feather). To do this, you can use mowed and chopped grass with a lawn mower.

top dressing

If the soil is depleted, then it is necessary to carry out top dressing.

The first - after the growth of 3 leaves. Urea or carbamide is used (a tablespoon per 10-liter bucket) mixed with half a spoonful of potash fertilizer.
The second is at the 5-leaf stage. Potassium monophosphate is added - 1 teaspoon per 10-liter bucket of water.

If the soil is well fertilized since autumn, then additional summer top dressings can be dispensed with.

nest formation

Around the middle of June, you can see how many bulbs are planned in the nest - they begin to separate. This is the very period when there is an opportunity to influence the presentation and quality of the crop. The optimal composition of the nest is 3-5 bulbs. If there are clearly more of them, then to get a larger turnip, the extra ones are carefully removed: with one hand, the nest is held, with the other, individual onions are carefully separated from the ground and taken out.

Pulled out rudiments with a feather are eaten or used in blanks. They can be cut and frozen, and added to dishes in winter.

Pest protection

As the nest matures, it gradually emerges from the ground. Many vegetable growers specially rake the soil so that the bulbs warm up and light up - this repels the onion fly and promotes ripening.

If the tips of the pen turn yellow, then the onion is watered with salt water or slurry. Some people scatter a pack of salt in advance on the bed where they plan to plant family onions.

Sometimes vegetable growers notice that part of the onion feather on some specimens seems to be cut off. This is the work of an owl larva. To find it, you need to turn the soil around the affected plant - most likely, a thick gray caterpillar will be found, which must be eliminated.

This variety is almost not affected by rot and fungus.

Harvesting

Growing family onions ends with harvesting - in August, when the feather falls. You should not overexpose, otherwise the turnip will be poorly stored. By this time, the bulbs are already on the surface, it remains only to separate them and send them to dry.

In order for the onion to pour better after harvesting, the feather and roots are not cut off, but they are given time to dry naturally.

Those who once managed to grow a family onion no longer “let go” of it from their gardens. This is such a tasty and unpretentious variety. It can be stored up to one and a half years. Usually onions are woven into bundles and hung on the wall.

Some, having unsuccessfully planted this variety several times, refuse it because of the small bulbs. However, having adopted the experience of successful vegetable growers, you can quite simply correct the situation by competently preparing planting material and soil.

Hearing the name “family bow”, many (I confess, and I once) shrug their shoulders in bewilderment: what kind of new bow is this. In fact, it’s not new at all, it’s just that this bow is better known in my homeland as a “kushchovka”.

Why "family"?

In fact, the family onion (family) is a type of onion. But, unlike the single-rub onion that is familiar to us, this onion has several rudiments inside - usually 5 or 7, but sometimes their number can reach up to 20. All these rudiments grow in one “house”, one family, wrapped in a common outer husk, hence the nickname - family.

Distinctive features, description of the family bow

Compared to ordinary onions, family onions are more juicy and fragrant. In addition, it is not as bitter as onions, so some gourmets even consider it dessert, if such a definition applies to onions at all.

Family onions are early maturing and less demanding on soil and growing conditions. Compared to ordinary onions, it is more resistant to diseases, primarily to various types of rot.

And yet, most housewives do not like this subspecies of onion, planting it mainly for growing on greens. This is understandable: the head of such an onion has to be not only cleaned, but also disassembled into its constituent rudiments, most of which are often wrapped in their own husks. Therefore, in comparison with ordinary onions, cleaning family onions takes more time and effort.

But still, rarely is a garden in our country complete without a bed of family onions. Depending on the preferences of its owners, it can be more or less, but there is almost always. It is valued not only for its excellent taste, but also for its early maturity and high keeping quality.

Small shallots contain more solids and are better suited for long-term storage than large onions. It’s not that they don’t rot at all, but their quantity, saturation with dry matter and isolation from each other do their job: if one bulb is rotten, the others remain healthy and suitable for food.

The early maturity of the family onion also contributes to its keeping quality. It quickly forms heads, but then just as quickly ages and dries out, so its bulbs are very rarely affected by neck rot and downy mildew.

Due to the fact that in a family onion, not one, but several bulbs grow from one bulb, then, although the weight of individual bulbs is smaller, the overall yield of the garden bed invariably turns out to be higher. Moreover, depending on the variety, weather conditions and the efforts of the owner, this difference can be very noticeable and reach up to 50%.

Appearance of the family bow

Family onion bulbs are small, weighing from 25 to 50 grams, although now there are already varieties of it with larger bulbs. At the bottom, all the bulbs are attached to a single nest. The appearance of mature family onion heads looks like some kind of fantastic flower, with its outlines a bit like a tulip. Depending on the variety, they can be of the most diverse form; oblong, ovoid, pitcher-shaped, elongated, cuboid.

Also, the color of the scales depends on the variety: red, bronze, golden or purple. The flesh of the bulbs on the cut is predominantly white, but in some varieties it can show off a pinkish-lilac hue.

The family onion sprouts before the onion, and with several feathers at once, it sprouts. These green leaves are thin, juicy, covered with a slight waxy coating, and almost without bitterness. Salad of crushed leaves of family onions and young radishes is the first vegetable dish of the new crop, appearing on many tables every year.

Yes, and the family onion itself, as if specially adapted by nature for such use, and easily gives 2-3 leaves for lettuce without any damage to productivity. In addition, unlike onions, the leaves of the family onion leave almost no odor from the mouth, so you can enjoy this dish even at breakfast before work or in the evening, before a romantic date.

The nuances of growing

Planting and caring for family onions are almost the same as planting and caring for onions. Yes, and these two varieties are often grown on the same bed.

Best of all, family onions grow in open ground on loose, fertile soils, with a pH close to neutral. The best predecessors for it will be legumes, potatoes, cucumbers, cabbage or tomatoes.

Family onions are planted mainly in spring, although autumn planting is also possible. Bulbs are planted in the garden very early: as soon as the snow comes off the garden and the earth dries enough to start processing and planting it. Depending on the weather conditions and the growing region, the timing may shift slightly, but in most regions it is early or mid-April.

Such early planting dates are simply explained: onions are cold-resistant plants, and calmly endure frosts of minus 6-7 °. At the same time, its root system can actively grow and develop just at low temperatures. But the leaves, although they can withstand frost, grow better at a higher temperature - from 15 to 25 °.

If you are late with planting a family onion, then it will “drive” the ground part to the detriment of the root system, and in the end will not be able to form full-fledged healthy bulbs.

Another argument in favor of the early spring planting of the family onion is that it is a long day plant, i.e. grows and develops better with an increasing length of daylight hours. The longest day of the year is June 22, and usually by this day the bulbs of the family onion are already formed.

Preparation for planting and planting bulbs

Immediately before planting, the bulbs of the family onion should be sorted out. Often, family onion bulbs are stored right in the nests - before planting, they need to be divided, rotten and damaged should be discarded.

For planting, it is better to select medium-sized bulbs: it is wasteful to plant large ones, and it is impractical to plant small ones, there will be no good harvest from them. Small bulbs can only be useful for forcing on a green feather.

Immediately before planting, the bulbs should be soaked for 15-20 minutes. in a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate or treated with a fungicide to protect against diseases and pests. Some gardeners advise for this to warm the bulbs for 7 hours at a temperature of 35 °. I myself have never used such a method of disinfection, so I can not judge its effectiveness.

Bulbs are planted in grooves cut during planting with a depth of 5-6 cm. Wood ash is added to the bottom of the planting furrows - 2-3 cups per linear meter. This type of onion is planted according to the scheme: 10-15 cm between the bulbs and 20 cm between the furrows. Such a scheme allows you to care for the bulbous bed without any problems, and to provide each bulb with an area sufficient for its growth and development.

It should be planted with a sharp tip up, since it is from it that the sprouts of future leaves will sprout. From above, the bulbs are sprinkled with a layer of earth of 2-3 cm. In this case, depending on the weather, green shoots appear 2-3 weeks after planting. If you plant the bulbs deeper, then the germination time will increase.

Features of autumn planting

Family onions, as an unpretentious and frost-resistant plant, can be planted before winter. Usually recommended optimal timing planting - the end of September, but for many years I have been planting a bush after the Intercession - October 14, and have never been left without a crop.

For planting, I use bulbs 1.5-2 cm in diameter - a little smaller than they are planted in the spring. If you plant the same as in spring (2.5-3 cm), a lot goes to the arrows, I was convinced from my own experience.

At the same time, he left the spring agricultural cultivation technique almost unchanged, adding only two nuances to it:

I also plant the bulbs in furrows 5-6 cm deep, but I fill them up to the top. After all, I don’t need the onion to start growing in the winter, the main task is for it to safely overwinter in the soil until spring.
In mid-November, I cover the bed in 2 layers: first, about 10 cm with a layer of fallen leaves, and on top of them - with a layer of approximately the same thickness of corn stalks. The latter, firstly, do not allow the wind to blow lighter leaves, and secondly, they retain snow well.

In early spring, when the snow has already melted, but it still freezes in the morning, I remove the shelter, and by the time the neighbors are just planting onions in the garden, mine is already sprouting. That's all the wisdom, I don't spend any autumn watering and fertilizing on the planted onions.

Bulb garden care

Until the ground part of the planted bulbs grows by 10-12 cm, any actions on the bulbous bed are not only unnecessary, but can also harm the future harvest.

Do not forget that at this time the planted bulbs are actively forming the root system, and the artificial "forcing" of onion leaves will lead to its weakening.

The only exception is if it becomes necessary to loosen the soil (for example, after heavy rain), then this must be done to prevent the appearance of a crust. Otherwise, no watering and top dressing at this time is needed for the family bow.

When the leaves of the family onion grow to 10 cm, the bed needs to be watered and mulched.. It is necessary to decide on irrigation based on the specific situation: during early planting, when there is still enough moisture in the ground from melted snow, and if it still rains on the ground, it may not be required.

Mulching is also not a mandatory agricultural technique, but I advise you to do it anyway. Unlike ordinary onions, family onions form bulbs almost at the very surface of the earth, and besides, these bulbs are small in size, so they are more exposed to the hot sun. Mulch will not only cover them, but will also help retain moisture in the soil and prevent weeds from germinating.

Onions should not be watered often, but plentifully: 2-2.5 buckets of water per m², depending on the weather, watering should be carried out 1 time in 7-10 days, be sure to take into account the amount and intensity of rainfall during their implementation. If during the growing season and especially the formation of bulbs, the onion lacks moisture in the soil, the heads will form small, and if it is in excess, they will be poorly stored.

When growing family onions, fertilizing with mineral fertilizers, as a rule, is not carried out. This variety of onions has a short fruiting period, and from the mineral fertilizers applied, it does not have time to "take" almost anything.

If, during cultivation, there is still a need for top dressing, then it is better to carry them out with organic fertilizers: mullein diluted in water in a ratio of 1:10 or bird droppings in a ratio of 1:15. Usually, such top dressing is applied at the beginning of the formation of bulbs, but on poor soils it is permissible to carry out one more, earlier top dressing - in the phase of intensive growth of green mass.

In general, the issue of feeding family onions is rather controversial. In my opinion, the introduction of organic dressings during the formation of the bulbs delays their ripening, worsens the taste and keeping quality.

For example, if I see that his feathers have slowed down their growth and their tips begin to turn yellow, I feed with ammonium nitrate, diluting 15 grams of fertilizer in 10 liters of water, and for greater efficiency I also add a glass of wood ash to this solution.

It is not even worth mentioning the timely loosening of the soil and the removal of weeds - these are necessary measures when growing any vegetable crop.

Disease and pest control

Like ordinary onions, family onions can be affected by many diseases and pests. And although this occurs relatively rarely with proper agricultural cultivation, it is still impossible to completely exclude such a danger.

One of the most "annoying" onion pests is the ubiquitous aphid. To get rid of it, onion leaves are sprayed with Verticillin. You can also use proven folk remedies: tinctures of wormwood, yarrow or hot pepper.

With wormwood and yarrow, you can protect your garden from onion flies by simply spreading their branches throughout the garden and periodically changing them to fresh ones. I have been practicing mixed plantings of onions and carrots for many decades, alternating two rows of one and the other plant. Caring for such a bed is a little more difficult than for ordinary plantings, but neither the onion nor the carrot fly bothers the plants.

Harvest and storage

Depending on the timing of planting, family onions ripen in late July-early August. Shrunken leaves and “clothing” of the bulbs in dry husks testify to the ripening of the onion. Harvest begins when the necks of the bulbs become dry.

Preparation for harvesting begins in early to mid-July, when watering is stopped. At this time, excess moisture in the soil can lead to the resumption of bulb growth, which will subsequently adversely affect their storage.

Choose bulbs from the ground in dry sunny weather to be able to dry them in the sun. It is best to dry the bulbs on a fabric laid out on the ground, for example, a blanket, but if you have to choose bulbs from damp ground, then it is better to use plastic wrap.

To dry the bulbs, they are cleaned of the earth adhering to them and cut off the roots, and then laid out in one row on a blanket or film. It is not necessary to cut dry onion leaves at this stage; they are cut off immediately before being sent for storage. Although I don’t cut dry leaves from family onions at all, it’s more convenient for me to collect and sort out bulbs with them.

In sunny weather, 2-3 days are usually enough to dry the onion well, while at night it must be removed under cover. If the weather is rainy, then it is better to dry the onion completely under a canopy, but increase its time to 7-10 days.

They store family onions, like onions, braided or in small wicker baskets.. You can also store them in small paper boxes, having previously made 10-15 small holes for ventilation in their walls.

Before the onset of cold weather, you can store the bulbs in a barn or in a veranda, and for the winter you will have to find a suitable place for them at home in a closet. It is risky to take the bulbs to the cellar or basement for the winter, since they often have high humidity, which adversely affects storage.

Are onions and shallots the same thing?

Shallot

The question is interesting and controversial. Family onions and shallots are so similar that they are perceived as one species. But most botanists still agree that these are two different types of onions. As proof of their correctness, they cite several arguments on the structure and biological characteristics of these species, which personally did not convince me of anything.

According to gardeners, most of them make no difference when planting shallots as family onions and vice versa. Yes, and what difference does it make to us, gardeners, whether it is one species or two.

What is important for us: that our beds please us with a generous harvest of delicious and healthy vegetables. And how this vegetable is correctly called: family onions or shallots - it doesn’t matter to me personally. As my grandfather liked to repeat: call at least a pot, so long as they don’t put it in the oven.

Many summer residents avoid the cultivation of family onions, preferring the onion version. But this plant represented various varieties, is quite capable of producing a rich harvest. Thanks to detailed descriptions, you can get acquainted with the various variations of this culture. Photos will make the "acquaintance" more visual. Given the characteristics of a particular variety, you can choose the optimal crop for growing in your region.

The best varieties of family onions for the middle lane

"Sprint".
"Grasshopper".
"Guarantee".
"Snowball".
"Masha".
Siberian yellow.
"Golden".

Attention! In this region, the varieties of family onions "Krepysh" and "Bonilla" are also excellent.

Among other varieties for the middle band, it is worth noting the good option "Ellan". This onion variety was obtained by breeders from Russia. The variety was bred relatively recently, but it literally immediately became in demand among numerous gardeners. The attractiveness of "Ellan" lies in the unique resistance to low temperatures. This variety ripens early and allows you to get a rich harvest. Its taste is pleasant and sweet. Plus, he is not afraid of most common diseases and pests.

Family onions must be selected in accordance with the climatic band

This variety of family onions is early ripening. Already in June, you can harvest. But he lies badly. The culture is recommended to be planted for pickling and making salads.

Another variety of family onions, which is intended for cultivation in central Russia, is Senshui Yellow. This variety was bred by Japanese breeders several years ago, but quickly found distribution in the Russian Federation and Belarus. This variety is cultivated to produce feathers and turnips. "Senshui Yellow" is distinguished by good keeping quality, high yield and excellent taste. This onion lies well for up to 6 months without loss of taste characteristics and presentation. The harvest of this variety usually occurs in June and the first days of July.

"Senshui Yellow" is highly resistant to diseases of a fungal nature of origin and low temperatures. Downy mildew rarely threatens this Japanese crop that produces yellow bulbs. Their scales are quite dense. The shape of the fruit is slightly elongated and rounded. It is like a spindle.

Advice. The seeds of such onions should be chosen with great care. Since this variety is new, it is often passed off as other, less valuable varieties.

Family bow "Russian violet"

Varieties of family onions for the southern regions

For cultivation in the southern regions, gardeners use special varieties of family onions. An excellent solution are varieties:

"Kunak";
"Rostovsky";
"Kuban yellow";
"Bargalinsky";
"Russian purple";
"Kushchevka Kharkiv";
"Belozerets-94".

Each of the options has its own advantages and features. For example, the Russian Violet variety is characterized by high productivity and early maturity. This variety is vegetatively propagated. It takes an average of 95 days to mature the crop. The name of this bow is determined by its appearance. The dry scales of the bulbs have a purple hue. The shape of vegetables is rounded flat. In each nest of this culture, from 10 to 20 bulbs are formed. The advantage of "Russian Violet" is its excellent keeping quality.

Among other varieties of family onions, which are intended for the southern regions, it is worth noting "Radar". This variety belongs to the results of Dutch selection. The variety is intended for winter sowing. Gardeners value "Radar" for the size of the fruit. On average, the weight of each bulb varies from 150 to 200 g. Some varieties can have a mass of 0.5 kg. A distinctive feature of this variety is good pulp. It is semi-sharp, pleasant to the taste, dense, white. The shape of the Radar bulbs resembles a ball with slightly flattened sides. The scales of this variety are golden, strong, dense, which provides the fruits with good keeping quality.

Bow "Sturon"

The variety can withstand frost without problems. The bulbs spend the whole winter in the ground, under the snow, without losing their important properties. Plus, the harvest of such a family onion can be harvested in the spring. Another advantage of the variety is resistance to most diseases. However, if you believe the reviews of summer residents who have already been cultivating the variety, Radar will not interfere with preventive treatment for stem nematodes and onion flies.

Family bow for the Moscow region: the best varieties

For the Moscow region, it is customary to use certain varieties of family onions. In this region, you can harvest a good harvest of varieties "Sturon", "Shakespeare", "Kip Vel" and "Centurion".

The Shakespeare variety, bred by Dutch breeders, has gained particular demand among gardeners in this region. The attractiveness of the variety lies in the fact that it can be successfully cultivated not only in the Moscow region. The variety is often called ideal for the middle lane.

"Shakespeare" - peninsular and useful variety. It is often used for winter planting. The variety is not afraid of frost. Its scales are strong and dense, which protects the seed material from low temperatures. This property also determines the excellent keeping quality of the culture. Vegetables can be stored for a long time without fear of losing their attractive taste and external qualities.

There are many varieties of family onions. Breeders distinguish varieties that form large bulbs and new options into special categories. Plus, for each region, special culture groups are recommended that are ideal for certain climatic conditions.

Growing family onions - video

To grow a decent crop of shallots, you need to choose suitable variety, able to grow in the conditions of your region, as well as properly prepare planting material and comply with the conditions of agricultural technology.

Shallot (or Ashkelon onion) is a type of onion, which is distinguished by smaller onions (20-50 g), as well as good early maturity and keeping quality.

This type of onion is also called the family onion, or kushchevka. The thing is that the bulbs underground form whole nests.

Bulbs and tender green shallots can be eaten all year round. And in some countries, a special anti-aging tea is even prepared from its husk. How to grow such a popular onion yourself? Let's start by choosing the right varieties.

Shallots: varietal diversity

The range of planting material for family onions is quite diverse. Shallot varieties are especially popular. Pomegranate, Fun, Lyra, Olbia, Surprise.

Shallots - cultivation and care

The technology of growing shallots is practically no different from the agricultural technology of its onion "brother", but it also has its own characteristics. This culture is quite capricious, varieties of "northern" selection may lack the length of daylight hours, shooting is often difficult, and it is difficult to achieve flowering. Therefore, all recommendations for growing must be followed very carefully.

Soil and planting site

Shallots need fertile soil with a neutral reaction. On acidic, heavy, damp soils, the plant will feel bad. It does not like waterlogged soil either. The scarce land in autumn (before digging) should be fertilized with rotted manure or compost at the rate of 3-4 kg per 1 sq.m. The bed set aside for planting shallots should be well lit.

Planting shallots

To get bulbs shallot planting material (small bulbs with a diameter of 2-4 cm), can be planted in early spring: in March-April. The holes should be made 5-6 cm deep and the bulbs should be placed according to the 20 × 10 cm pattern. When planting, they should not be pressed or screwed into the ground: their tops should be slightly visible from the holes.

To get a pen larger bulbs should be planted. Do this in the fall (October), so that the plants have time to take root before the onset of frost. Bulbs that have had time to put out roots tolerate winter well even in the northern regions and begin to grow green mass in early spring.

Shallot Care

Shallot care consists of periodic watering, loosening the soil and removing weeds. Usually during the growing season in hot and dry periods it is enough to water the onion 3-4 times. After that, the soil must be loosened so that a crust does not form on its surface.

Shallot top dressing

For one season, family onions are fed 2 times. First dressing carried out in the spring, after the plants grow 3 leaves each. For these purposes, you can use an infusion of weeds diluted with water in a ratio of 1:3, urea or urea (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water), to which ½ tablespoon of potash fertilizer is added.

Second top dressing needed when plants have 5 leaves. Since onions especially need phosphorus and potassium at this time, potassium monophosphate (1 tsp per 10 liters of water) is suitable as a fertilizer. If the weather is too wet, the fertilizer can simply be scattered between the rows and planted into the soil.

Onion harvesting and storage

Shallots are harvested in dry sunny weather, when 50-70% of the green mass is covered. The bulbs should be dug up along with the leaves, and then dried well in the sun for 2 weeks.

To send the bulbs for storage, they need to cut off dry leaves, leaving only a thin neck 3-5 cm high. By this time, the onion should be ripe and dry. It should be stored in small wooden boxes or cardboard boxes in a dry place at 0-3°C or at room temperature. At higher temperatures, the quality of shallots decreases and their taste deteriorates. Nests do not need to be divided into individual bulbs.

Shallots from seeds

It is quite difficult to reproduce onions from seeds - this requires serious preparatory work. But if you have good breeding skills, it's still worth a try.

Garden preparation

Shallots are sown in the spring, but the soil is prepared in advance - in the fall. To do this, the land is freed from weeds, dug up and fertilized with organic and mineral fertilizers. Humus or compost is suitable, which are applied at the rate of 5 kg per 1 sq.m, as well as superphosphate - 70 g per 1 sq.m. After top dressing, you need to form beds and leave them until spring. Before sowing, the earth needs to be slightly loosened.

Seed preparation

In order for the seeds of the family onion to sprout better, they should be germinated: wrapped in gauze or a cloth, dipped in a container of water and kept for 2 days at a temperature of 22-25 ° C. Every 6-8 hours, the seed must be washed under running water, and then again lowered into a container with clean water. Before planting, onion seeds need to be air-dried a little.

Shallot seeding

Shallot seeds are sown in late April - early May in beds prepared in autumn and covered with earth. Seeds are sown in grooves about 3 cm deep. From above, it is desirable to cover them with a layer of peat or rotted compost. At first, the beds with crops of shallots should be watered frequently.

Harvesting

After 20-25 days, it will be possible to harvest the first crop of greenery. In the first year, the seeds give a medium-sized bulb, which, after drying, breaks up into 5-6 small ones. The next year, these bulbs are planted again in the garden to get larger nests of shallots. These bulbs will be suitable for similar reproduction within 5 years. After that, the planting material must be updated.

Selection in country conditions

One of the main problems that gardeners face when growing shallots is that many varieties of shallots degenerate due to various diseases. For example, for several years in a row, onions gave an excellent harvest, after which they began to "refuse" to grow. What to do? You can try to improve (or at least just maintain) the varietal qualities of a particular variety.

Onion breeding is based on its biological characteristics. You can try to breed your own variety from seeds, but this is very difficult. But there is another option. From each planted bulb of shallots, several new ones are combined into a nest. If you take a good look at the bulbs from the same nest, you will notice how different they are in shape, size and color intensity. Most often, changes in offspring occur under the influence of external environmental factors and are not inherited. But there may also be mutations. Therefore, when selecting material for propagation, it is necessary to conduct 2 inspections of planting material:

Stage 1- arrange the bulbs of different nests in a row, inspect them, and then remove the nests with diseased, damaged or malformed specimens.

Stage 2- select the best nests from the remaining ones and select one medium uterine bulb from them for future offspring (sometimes all bulbs from the nest may be suitable for reproduction).

Please note that good growth and development of the onion largely depends on the mass of the selected bulb. Try to select planting material of the same size.

Until spring, selected bulbs should be stored in boxes in a dry, well-ventilated area. At the same time, planting material must be periodically checked and rotten bulbs removed.

In early spring, the selected bulbs must be sorted out again and planted in the ground as soon as possible. The "family" is not afraid of return spring frosts. This is how a simple summer resident can become a breeder and breed his shallot variety.

Diseases of shallots

The most dangerous onion disease is neck rot (gray rot). If you store the bulbs in a damp room, then there is a high probability that the crop will become infected with neck rot. The disease can appear even at the time of onion ripening in the open field. But if you store the onions in a dry place, the affected bulbs will dry out, preventing the disease from spreading to the rest of the crop. In moist air, infected specimens will become soft and watery.