Annual aster: planting seedlings in a permanent place and caring for asters. What does pinching mean: rules for pinching plants Do I need to pinch seedlings of undersized asters

Cultivation of asters attracts gardeners with the opportunity to easily decorate the garden with a variety of flower forms and colors at a time when most other flowers have long since faded, and the golden prints of autumn are about to appear around. Often, in order to see their friendly flowering early,. If the process of sowing and growing was successful and the seedlings delight the eye with several pairs of leaves, then the question “when to plant asters in the ground for a permanent place of growth and how to do it right?” becomes relevant.

What needs to be done before planting asters in the ground?

1. Bed location and soil features
it is better to prepare and season the garden bed for planting flowers in the fall, as well as. The site itself should be sunny or slightly shaded, preferably flat or with a slight southeast or south slope, because asters are hard to tolerate waterlogging of the soil and stagnant water, which negatively affects the quality of the inflorescences and contributes to the development of fungal diseases.

If the site has not been prepared in advance, then it can be filled with humus or compost (but not fresh manure) for digging before planting seedlings. You can also use or phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. For example, about 40 g of potash fertilizers and (40-60 g) or (60-80 g) are distributed per 1 square meter. In the case of cultivated nutrient soil, additional fertilizer is not necessary. In addition, you should pay attention to the acidity of the soil. Asters grow best on soils with neutral indicators. If the pH level is higher than 6.4-7.4, when digging the ground, lime must be added to it, 120-200 g of dolomite flour or 100-150 g of wood ash, again per 1 sq. m.

For growing asters, do not use areas where gladioli, levkoy, gerberas, daffodils, chrysanthemums, carnations, nightshade and asters themselves grew before, in order to avoid planting damage by fungal diseases.

2. When to plant asters
It is possible to plant aster seedlings in a flower garden from mid-May, when relatively warm weather sets in with a stable night temperature of at least +5 degrees. The plants themselves at this time should already have at least 5-6 developed leaves and reach 5-10 cm in height. Planting is carried out in cloudy weather or in the evening. With proper preparation of seedlings, it should not only take root well during this period, but also endure short-term frosts down to -3 degrees.

3. seedling preparation
A few weeks before the time when it will be just right to plant asters in a flower bed, the seedlings must be hardened off. Direct hardening begins after the appearance of 4 leaves, setting the temperature regime in the daytime 10-12 degrees, and at night 8-10 degrees. Every day it is necessary to increase the duration of the seedlings in the open air by 15-20 minutes. The period of hardening of seedlings is about 15-20 days. The number of waterings at this time is reduced.

A couple of days before the transplant and immediately before the procedure, the seedlings, if they are not contained in separate pots, are watered. This will help preserve the earth ball and roots.

With proper preparation of the conditions and hardening of the aster plants themselves, planting and caring for which will not become a big problem in the future, will take root perfectly and give healthy and powerful plants.

How to plant grown asters in a flower bed

The technology for planting seedlings of asters in the ground is not particularly difficult. Before planting, the soil is loosened and grooves or pits are made of such depth that the roots of the plant can freely fit in them and it is possible to deepen it by a couple of centimeters. The latter is especially necessary if the seedlings have stretched out for some reason.

With a lack of moisture in the soil, it is advisable to do pre- and post-planting watering, spending a total of about a liter of water per plant. If the soil is damp, one watering is enough. In this case, during planting, the soil around the plant is compacted in the form of a hole. When the planting is completed, the asters are watered over the holes and the surface of the beds is mulched with dry earth or peat with a layer thickness of up to 1.5 cm so that a crust does not form.

The distance between asters during planting is primarily determined by the characteristics of the variety. It is impossible to thicken the plantings so as not to weaken the plants and not complicate the further care of the asters. Often, tall varieties are planted according to the scheme 30 × 30 cm, medium - 25 × 25 cm, and low - 20 × 20 cm. For example, undersized Pinocchio asters, planting and caring for which are carried out according to the same principles as for others varieties of asters, can be planted even at intervals of 10-15 cm. This will allow you to create a more coherent composition from them in the foreground of the flower garden or in the border.

If asters are grown for cutting (usually they are high large-flowered varieties), then the distance should be made approximately 25 × 40 or 20 × 45 cm. With multi-row planting, the gaps between rows can reach 60-70 cm.

In the case when the weather remains cool outside, at first it is sometimes practiced to cover freshly planted asters with non-woven material at night to protect them from possible frosts. For the same purpose, small "nests" of hay are formed around the plants, thanks to which moisture is also retained. In hot weather, seedlings sometimes try to shade so that they can take root without suffering from the scorching sun.

How to care for asters after planting

Caring for asters in the early stages of growth is simple. After 10-14 days, top dressing is carried out with complex mineral fertilizers, which is repeated after another 3-4 weeks. Water infrequently and in moderation, mainly on dry days, because the plant does not tolerate excessive moisture. After watering and precipitation, it is necessary to loosen the soil and remove weeds. This procedure is especially necessary if the site is not mulched. Optionally, using special preparations, pest control and disease prevention are carried out, if there is a possibility of such.

Before branching, some varieties of asters are pinched to get larger inflorescences. Approximately at the same stage, the plants are spudded by 5-7 cm.

As you can see, the aster, planting and caring for which is a simple task even for a beginner, is undemanding to growing conditions. It is enough to make a minimum of effort and elementary care in order to see the bright colors of flowering asters in the summer.

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Astra is a huge variety of shades and shapes of flowers. It is easier to name what color asters are not found: orange and green. There are even two-color baskets, which is not so common in the world of flowers. This arouses the interest of gardeners and excites the imagination of landscape designers. But aster, like any other plant, requires a special approach to cultivation.

Sowing asters in open ground

The most common is the cultivation of asters from seeds. They can be purchased at specialized stores or use your own. But in order for the flowers to meet your expectations, it is important to know where, when and how to sow the planting material.

Optimal sowing time

Determining the ideal time to sow asters is not always easy, as it depends on the plant variety. So, early asters are immersed in the ground earlier than usual, and some are literally sown in the snow.

Early asters are sown in the second half of March. By July, about 90 days after planting, you will get the first flowers. Mid-early varieties bloom after 110 days.

The dates for sowing asters of late varieties are set for the end of April - the beginning of May, when the air temperature does not fall below 10 ºC. They can be expected to bloom in 120 - 130 days, that is, by the end of August or the beginning of September, and some varieties can bloom even before frost. In any case, plants grown on open field from seeds, bloom later than those grown from seedlings grown in a greenhouse.

Did you know? The Aster family, or Compositae, has 200–500 species. These are annual or perennial herbs, the flower baskets of which are collected in the form of panicles or corymbs. They grow throughout Central and North America. And that flower, which is usually called aster, actually belongs to the genus Callistefus (Callistephus) and has the name Callistefus Chinese. It has green or dark red simple stems, alternate leaves, basket-shaped inflorescences.

Another question is how many asters sprout from seeds planted in late autumn. Seeds are sown in grooves made in slightly frozen soil after the first frost. The grooves are well closed with humus or peat. Some varieties can be thrown directly into the snow, covering the grooves with peat. Do this in December-January. This planting method is an excellent prevention of Fusarium. When the snow melts in the spring, it is advisable to cover the place where shoots are planned to be covered with a film, creating a greenhouse effect. Remember that it is desirable to sow the seeds harvested from the previous year's crop. Two-year-olds have a lower germination rate, and older seeds practically do not germinate.

How to choose a site for landing asters

So that growing asters does not bring a lot of trouble, it is important to choose a suitable place for a flower bed in advance. Asters grow well in partial shade, but still prefer sunny places. However, it is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of the climate, since in extreme heat they noticeably lose their decorative effect. Also make sure that the place is well ventilated and not too damp. It is advisable to clarify how close to the flower bed groundwater lies.

Pay attention to what grew in the flower bed to asters. For example, if earlier tulips, gladioli, levkoy, carnations, tomatoes, potatoes, asters grew in this place, it is better not to plant, as there is a high risk of their being affected by Fusarium. These flowers can be planted in such land only after six years. Asters feel good in a flower bed after calendula, marigolds, perennial herbs.

How to prepare the soil for planting

Neutral fertile or light soil is best suited for the plant. It must be prepared in advance. If sowing is planned in the spring, then in the fall the site must be deeply dug with compost or humus at the rate of 2–4 kg per square meter with the addition of sand. The latter will give good drainage and breathability.

In the spring, if the soil is depleted, it is necessary to carry out another digging with superphosphate (20–40 g per square meter), ammonium sulfate and potassium salt (15–20 g each). Before planting, the flower bed must be weeded, loosened by 4–6 cm. In order to have lush and healthy flowers during flowering, the soil for asters must be well moistened before planting.

Important! To date, there is no single generally accepted classification of asters. None of the compilations are complete. But if you divide it very roughly, then perennial asters are divided into two groups according to the timing of flowering. The early flowering group includes Italian asters (Aster amellus), Bessarabian (Aster bessarabicus), alpine (Aster alpinus). More numerous is the group of autumn-flowering plants: New England, New Belgian, shrub and others.

How to sow

Grooves for sowing plants should be shallow, up to 4 cm. Before throwing seeds into them, they must be well watered. After sowing, the furrows are covered with soil and covered with special materials. You can also mulch, but only in dry weather. When shoots appear, the shelter can be removed, and when two or three leaves appear, thin out the sowing. There should be a distance of 10–15 cm between the sprouts. Seedlings that had to be removed can be transplanted to another place.

Basic rules for caring for asters

The main rule in the matter of how to care for asters is to weed the earth from weeds in time and loosen it well to a depth of 4-6 cm after each rain. To accelerate the growth of roots, it is recommended to spud the bush by 6–8 cm.

How to water asters

When watering, it must be remembered that asters do not like excessive moisture and dampness. It is a drought-resistant plant, although it requires intensive watering in hot weather. On average, for each square meter, approximately three buckets of water are needed, with the condition that the earth will then be loosened. This is especially important when buds appear. Abundant watering during this period promises flowers with large buds during flowering. If you delay with watering, the flowers will lose not only in splendor, but also in color.

When, how and how to feed asters

Asters need to be fed at least three times during their entire life span. The first top dressing is recommended to be done two weeks after planting. For this, mineral fertilizers are used, for example, 50 g of superphosphate, 10 g of potassium sulfate, 20 g of ammonium nitrate per square meter. As soon as the buds appear, use fertilizers that do not contain nitrogen. During the flowering period, asters use 50 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate per square meter. It is recommended to use organic fertilizers only on poor soils.

Benefits of pinching for asters

Removal of buds, tops at the ends of the shoots gives the active growth of lateral shoots and wide branching of the main stem. This is usually done with a sharp knife or just nails. Most often, these manipulations are carried out when the plants go into intensive growth. Although they do not do this for all varieties of plants. It is recommended to aster shrub, from which you can form undersized fences strewn with flowers.

Did you know? From Latin, the word "aster" is translated as "star". The name of the flower is associated with a philosophical legend about how two monks decided to get closer to the stars by climbing to the top of the highest mountain. After many days and nights, having reached the summit, they found that the stars were still far from them. Below them was waiting for the same long and hard journey without food and water. Having reached the foot of the mountain, exhausted, they discovered a beautiful meadow dotted with amazing flowers. "Marvelous! We were looking for stars in the sky, and they live under our feet!” the monks said and took a few bushes with them. Returning to the monastery, they began to grow them and distribute them around the world.

Astra is unpretentious. Astra is light-loving. Astra is moisture-loving (especially the first month of the life of seedlings). Astra is cold-resistant (tolerates short frosts). Astra is responsive to fertile soil.

You can not plant asters after potatoes, tomatoes, asters, gladioli. Adult aster plants are unpretentious to growing conditions, easily tolerate short-term drought, tolerate transplantation well up to the budding period.

Aster seeds are quite capricious. They quickly lose their germination capacity (2-3 years after seed collection), are very sensitive to drying out of the soil during germination, are quite frost-resistant, sown well by self-sowing (under favorable conditions) and germinate in spring (when wintering under snow).

Flowering in asters begins in mid-June (when planting through seedlings) and from the end of July (when sowing seeds in open ground).

Early asters begin to bloom after 90 days (at the beginning of July), medium-early - after 110 days (at the beginning of August), late - after 120-130 days (late August - mid-September). Late varieties of asters bloom until severe frosts (-5C).

In one place, asters can be planted 2-3 years in a row.

Selection of a site for landing astro.

A flowerbed for them must be chosen necessarily light, asters cannot stand the shadow (the stems are drawn out, they often get sick, rarely bloom). Astra does not tolerate stagnant water (it suffers from Fusarium, the leaves become covered with rust, dry out and die).

It is preferable to plant aster in nutritious medium-dense soils, where manure was introduced no earlier than 2-3 years ago.

Aster seeds selection.

Seeds are selected depending on the location of the asters in the future flower bed, taking into account the height of the bushes, the diameter of the flowers and the desired color scheme.

In the foreground, undersized and smaller varieties of asters will look good. For the background of the flower beds, taller bushes with large inflorescences are suitable.
Preparing the soil for planting asters.

As with any flowers, the aster will produce large, healthy, vigorous flowers only if there is enough nutrients and moisture in the soil.

If the landing of asters is planned for the spring, then it is better to dig up the site in the fall, adding 200 grams of nitrophoska and 1 bucket of rotted manure (or compost) per 1 square meter. Fresh manure cannot be applied, it contributes to the defeat of asters with fungal diseases.

Methods and time of planting asters.

Annual asters are grown in seedlings (in greenhouses in the country and in containers on the windowsill) and in a seedless way. An aster planted with seedlings will bloom 3-4 weeks earlier than an aster planted with seeds in open ground.

standard landing of asters in rows

Single planting seedlings of aster

In a seedless way, aster seeds are planted in open ground in autumn, at the end of October or in spring (late April - early May), when the air temperature is above 100C. In the spring, the crops are not delayed in order to avoid drying out of the soil during germination (which gives poor, unfriendly shoots).

It is good to plant asters in a group or singly, they are also planted between perennials.

Standard planting - planting in rows, with a row spacing of at least 30 cm and a distance of 3-5 cm between seeds in a row. Prepared holes are shed with water before planting the seeds, then the seeds are laid out and covered with a 2-3 cm layer of earth.

From the moment of germination to budding, seedlings break through 2-3 times. The first time when the first pair of real leaves appear (after one), the next - every 3-4 weeks. Broken seedlings can be used for transplanting in other flower beds.

Asters seedlings are best planted in cloudy weather, according to the scheme, no thicker than 30 × 30 cm.

asters seedlings in May when self-sowing in autumn

Under favorable conditions (not hot and not dry autumn), asters reproduce well by self-sowing.

aster royal white

What to do so that asters grow lush bushes?

For abundant flowering of asters, pinching the central bud (the very first one) is necessary. Although there are varieties that bush on their own.

Watering asters.

In summer, the aster is watered infrequently, but plentifully. Astra does not tolerate systematic waterlogging, it is also sensitive to prolonged drought (buds become smaller). Watering alternates with loosening the soil.

How to prolong the flowering of asters?

During flowering, faded flowers are systematically removed to give the plants a neat appearance and prolong their flowering period (due to saving energy and nutrients that would go to seed maturation).

How to get larger flowers from cut aster?

In order for the flowers of the aster to be larger, it is necessary to remove all side shoots from the bush at the time of budding and leave 1-2 central flowering stems. This operation can be effectively carried out with large-flowered asters.

The buds on the aster open gradually, first the topmost and central ones bloom, then the turn of the side flowers comes. Asters with half-opened flowers are removed for cutting.

How to harvest your aster seeds?

To collect seeds from the variety you like, the flower is not plucked until the petals on it fade, and the center darkens and it is covered with white fluff. Such flowers are cut and dried in a warm, dry place for a month, without cutting the heads. Then the seeds are shaken out and stored at room temperature, in paper bags or cloth bags for no more than 2 years.

From garden to apartment.

If desired, in the fall, before the onset of frost, they dig up beautiful bushes (flowering or in the budding stage), transplant (along with a clod of earth) into pots or other containers and put on a glazed balcony or veranda (where the temperature will be kept within + 10-+ 18оС).

Then for a long period they will delight with their colors and colors.

Top dressing asters.

Astra responds well to foliar feeding, especially at the time of budding (June-July) with a solution of complete mineral fertilizer, the solution is evenly sprayed over the leaves in the morning on a cloudy windless day.

Multi-colored asters bloom for a long time in autumn, decorating the flower garden. The plant is not whimsical, so there are no difficulties in growing.

Astra can be sown with seeds directly into the ground or planted with seedlings, then flowering will come earlier. Growing aster seedlings at home requires some knowledge about caring for young seedlings. If agricultural practices are not followed, young plants can get sick and die, which often happens with inexperienced flower growers. Let us consider in detail the whole process of growing seedlings of asters on the windowsill of the house: from sowing seeds to planting on the street.

When to sow asters for seedlings?

It is necessary to sow aster seeds in a timely manner, since overgrown seedlings take root worse, and later sowing of seeds does not make sense. Good, healthy seedlings of asters can be obtained from fresh, last year's seeds, which are sown from the end of March to the second decade of April. Later sowing is already carried out directly into the ground at a permanent place of growth.

Growing seedlings of asters from seeds

For seeding we need:

Drawers at least 5 cm high;
A piece of glass, the dimensions of which correspond to the box;
Soil from earth, humus and sand in equal proportions;
wood ash;
Perlite;
Weak solution of potassium permanganate;
A bag of aster seeds.

Many people ask themselves: how to grow good aster seedlings? In order for the flowers to grow strong, it is necessary to initially sow the seeds in nutrient soil. Any grower can do it on their own: they mix humus, garden soil and sand in equal proportions, steam it in an oven or double boiler, and add wood ash at the rate of a glass of ash per bucket of mixture. It is useful to add perlite to the prepared soil, which improves soil aeration and allows seedling roots to develop better.

A plastic or wooden box for seedlings is filled with prepared soil, slightly compacted and poured abundantly with potassium permanganate.

Seeds must be treated with any fungicide before planting. This is the most effective remedy for fungal diseases that often affect aster seedlings on the windowsill of the house.

Shallow furrows (up to 2 cm) are made in the ground and aster seeds are laid out. Then they are sprinkled on top with soil, but not more than 2 mm. The distance between the grooves should be 2-5 cm.

Experienced flower growers are advised to sprinkle aster seeds with calcined sand 0.5 cm thick, which will avoid jamming during watering and the development of the "black leg" disease.

Crops are covered with a piece of glass, which will prevent the rapid evaporation of moisture.

Aster seedlings appear on the 5-10th day, after which the glass is removed from the box. Seedlings are moved to the windowsill with good lighting but the temperature should not exceed 15°C. This is an important condition when growing aster seedlings at home, otherwise it will stretch.

As the soil dries, moisten it with warm water from a spray bottle. It is important not to overdo it and not flood the plants, otherwise the seedlings may be struck by a black leg. As soon as the first signs of this disease are detected, diseased shoots are immediately removed with a small clod of earth. The hole is covered with earth and this place is spilled with a fungicide solution.

Picking seedlings of asters

This procedure should be carried out when aster seedlings have 2-3 true leaves. The composition of the soil during transplantation should not differ, but an additional spoonful of complex mineral fertilizer is added to the prepared soil. Thoroughly mix the soil to evenly distribute the fertilizer.

Pots or cassettes are filled with soil and lightly compacted so that the soil does not settle much after watering. With a stick, a recess is made in the center of the pot, in which the roots of the seedling will freely fit. A plant with a highly branched root system is pinched. When transplanting, the seedling is buried in the soil, but not more than 1 cm from the cotyledon leaves.

The soil around the sprout is compacted so that it is not washed out with water when watering.

Each pot is carefully spilled with warm water, and you need to water from the edge of the pot, gradually moving towards the center. It is important to ensure that water does not get on the leaves of plants. Picked seedlings of asters are exposed to a bright place, preventing direct sunlight. The optimum temperature for asters is + 20 ° С.

Subsequent care of aster seedlings is not difficult. As the soil in the pot dries up, the seedlings are watered with warm water; it is not necessary to feed it if the soil was originally filled with mineral fertilizers.

Additional mineral dressing will be required for plants if planting is delayed due to cold weather. When 4-5 leaves are formed on aster plants, the seedlings should be gradually hardened in the fresh air, for which the pots are taken outside to a slightly darkened place.

Read also:

|| Sowing seeds in protected ground || Sowing seeds in open ground || Seedlings || Lawn care || Lawn from seeds || Paving || First steps in pruning || Pinching and pinching || Cuttings || Reproduction by layering || Root layers || Berry crops || Miniature fruit trees || Shrubs || Herbaceous perennials || Bulbs, rhizomes, corms, tubers || Curly and creepy

Pinching and pinching are simple, but necessary garden work. It is only important to know which plants need it and when.

Dahlias require regular grooming. 3-4 weeks after planting, they need to be carefully pinched, removing the main shoots. Over time, withering flowers should be cut.

You may have been doing this work without knowing it. It consists in removing, often simply by pinching off with your fingers, the buds of a new growth. This allows the plant to concentrate on producing fewer flowers or fruits, but more beautiful or larger ones. New buds are laid in the axil of the leaf (the place where the leaf cutting is attached to the stem). Leaves and flowers can develop from them, and later, probably, fruits.

growth control. In many plants, the development of buds located down the stem is inhibited by the main stem growth point. Therefore, gardeners pinch the top of the stem with a growing point to allow the lateral buds to grow; the plant in this case becomes more magnificent. Such a procedure does not stop the growth of the apex at all - after a while it resumes. Not all plants in the garden need to be pinched; it all depends on your goals. If you are preparing flowers for a show, you will need to pinch or pinch the plants. Faded heads are often removed due to their untidy appearance, but there may be other reasons.

Many early flowering herbaceous perennials can be made to bloom a second time by cutting them. Other plants manage to extend the flowering period by regularly removing old, dead flowers. Under natural conditions, plants flower to attract pollinators and produce seeds for the survival and spread of the species. But the development of seeds takes a lot of effort. So that it does not affect flowering in the next season, it is better to prevent it in plants using bulbs, corms, rhizomes or tubers for vegetative propagation. Plants will consistently bloom every year if they are not allowed to form seeds. They will even try to produce more flowers, as if hoping to eventually get seeds. Some plants easily produce seeds that self-sow throughout the area. You don't have to allow it if you don't want them to overrun everything.

How it's done. In some plants, for example, heathers, lavender, a number of herbs, flowers are formed on long, elongated shoots. Cut them off so as not to weaken the plant and so that the elongated stems that are bare at the base do not spoil the appearance of the plant. Garden shears and single-handled shears are useful for shearing heathers and related plants and for removing faded flowers from a number of large herbaceous perennials. In flowers like pansies, old flowers are most conveniently plucked with thumb and forefinger. Scissors are good for stronger stems, secateurs are good for woody plants. When removing flowers from bushes, cut the branch back to the previous bud, usually at the leaf axil. If the side shoot is ready to grow, cut back to it.

Carnations. Flowers are cut off from garden carnations to prolong flowering; greenhouse, constantly flowering (for sale) varieties require more attention. Carnations with several flowering shoots do not stepchild, but pinch. However, varieties with single flowers and early flowering ones do not pinch, they are stepchildren! Carnations with several shoots are formed by pinching the first small pair of leaves two to three weeks after planting. This stimulates the growth of side stems, but slows down flowering. Carnation stems are articular. Buds in two or three nodes at the base of the stems are removed from carnations with single branches. Others, higher up the stem, are left with buds. Having found the point of growth (the main flower bud), you must remove the six lying below. Cut off the main stem with the flower above the node with the bud. After such pinching, the remaining buds will develop into healthy side shoots and will bloom.

Chrysanthemums. For annuals, pinching the upper bud is beneficial, they grow into lush bushes that serve as an ornament to any flower bed. They are often cut for bouquets; removing inflorescences, you will extend the period of their flowering. For winter-hardy perennials, it is enough to remove faded inflorescences. Delicate chrysanthemums are distinguished by the type of flowers, size and season. Only large and medium-flowered varieties stepchild. However, pinch the growth point of all chrysanthemums that have reached a height of 15 cm to stimulate the growth of side shoots. Then you remove one or two side shoots from each stem daily until you have the number of shoots you need - usually about six for flower beds and bouquets, but two or three for exhibition specimens.

The growing point is then removed again, as this bud is larger and blooms earlier than the side ones. Even if this flower bud has not formed in early summer, the growth point is still pinched, otherwise the growth of lateral buds will slow down. The remaining stems now produce their own side shoots with buds. They are removed as they grow, leaving one inflorescence on each stem. Other side shoots growing on the flowering stem are also pinched off. Remove them every one to two days. If in chrysanthemums with non-removed buds, which are going to form side shoots, the bud at the point of growth outstrips the surrounding buds in growth, it should be pinched off.

pasynkovanie

The side shoot of the chrysanthemum has a growth point and other buds below. Remove the lower buds to get one good flower.

Dahlias. Pinch the top bud a month after planting in a flower bed, when strong shoots appear. If you are preparing them for a show, limit the number of side shoots. Dahlias are distinguished by the shape and size of the flowers. Leave "giants" (over 25 cm) 2-3 stems, large (20-25 cm) - 3-4 stems, medium (15-20 cm) - up to 5-7 stems, small (10-15 cm) - up to 8-10 and "miniature" (less than 10 cm) - up to 10-12 stems. Also, when growing pom-pom dahlias, pinch off side shoots as soon as they produce two leaves. This will produce a mass of 5 cm flowers. When removing faded flowers, cut them back to the emerging lateral shoot. This will prevent the plant from becoming long, thin, with a hanging top.

Roses. Some roses will form two or three buds at the point of pruning, you only need to leave one of them. If you leave everything, they will give weak stems. When preparing hybrid tea roses for exhibition, inspect the stems and remove excess flowers that may have grown on a single stem. Cut off all flowers except one. When removing faded roses, cut back to the first five-leaf leaf below the flower. When cutting faded floribunda roses, make sure you remove the entire "bundle" of flowers down to the first five-leafed leaf on the main stem. Since removing the growing point on re-blooming roses encourages new growth, do it in early fall. Otherwise, tender young shoots will be killed by early frosts. Buds below old flowers are best left dormant so they can grow next spring.

Sweet pea. It must be pinched off as soon as two or three true leaves appear, as the first shoot usually does not bear flowers, although it stretches up to 1 meter. After pinching, the plant will produce two shoots from the base, both of which will bloom.

Plants to be pinched. Herbaceous perennials with a single flowering until late summer: gravel (Geum), lungwort (Pulmonaria), delphinium and geranium (Geranium). Sweet pea. Garden carnations. Plants that form bulbs, corms, tubers and rhizomes. Plants in flower beds: dahlias, African marigolds, nemesia, pelargonium (Pelargonia), pansies. Repeat flowering roses. Self-seeding plants: mantle (Achemilla), ornamental bows (Allium), watersheds (Aquilegia).

Plants that do not pinch. Plants with beautiful dried flower heads; seeds or fruits grown for decoration: moonflower, hydrangea, poppy. Most of the flowers in the flower beds. Bushes that bloom once a year: lilac, viburnum, fragrant mock orange. Plants sensitive to cold in cold gardens where old flower heads protect new buds: Hydrangea. Fruits and fruits intended for food, decoration or planting: pyracantha (Pyracantha), quince (edible and ornamental varieties), cotoneaster, wild roses with ornamental fruits.