The rose leaves are all full of holes, what should I do? Rose leaves in holes: how to treat a flower

Roses are not only beautiful, but also quite troublesome to grow. The rose bush is constantly attacked by various pests. To protect the rose from them, you need to carry out preventive spraying, starting from the moment the buds swell.

There are holes in the rose leaves, what should I do?

Holes in the leaves of a rose bush are the work of several pests (chafer beetles, caterpillars of various butterflies, leaf rollers and cocoon moths). Let's consider measures to combat them:

Chafer. This insect eats irregularly shaped holes on rose leaves from May to June. However, an adult beetle causes much less problems than its larvae living in the soil. With their vital activity they make the rose bush weak, and young plants may even die. Control measures: adult beetles are collected and destroyed. The rose bush must be treated with bifenthrin.
Butterfly caterpillars. These can be the larvae of different butterflies. At first, small holes appear on the leaves, but in a short time only veins may remain from the leaf. Control measures: manual collection, treatment with any insecticides.
Leaf roller. The caterpillars of this insect feed on the buds and pulp of rose leaves. Small holes remain on them, and the leaves themselves become deformed. If there are many such damaged leaves, the bush weakens due to lack of nutrients. In rose flowers, the caterpillar eats away the stamens, pistils and petals. At the end of May, a silvery web appears on the leaves - a sign that the caterpillar will soon become a butterfly. Such leaves must be removed along with the cocoon. Control measures: for prevention in the spring, you need to spray rose bushes with a nitrophen solution (before the buds open). 0.3 kg of the substance is diluted in 10 liters of water. In May, preventive spraying is continued using bifenthrin (it is in the drug Talstar, Semaphore). If a leaf roller has already appeared on the rose bush, you need to act differently. If the number of caterpillars is small, they must be collected manually and destroyed. It is much more difficult to deal with large concentrations of this insect. In this case, insecticides Aktaru and Decis are used. It is also necessary to carry out measures to catch leaf roller butterflies before they lay eggs, from which caterpillars will appear next year. You can make effective traps yourself: houses are glued together from paper, inside which sheets with a sticky substance containing pheromones are laid out. Such traps attract leaf roller butterflies. Traps are hung not only near rose bushes, but also in the garden. This product will get rid of a large number of insects.
Cocoon worms. These butterflies have caterpillars that are gray, orange and white. Caterpillars gnaw irregularly shaped holes in the leaves of the rose bush and, in large concentrations, completely expose the branches. Cocoon moths can be easily recognized by their “tents” made of cobwebs. Control measures: you need to manually destroy insect nests, treat them with Talstar or Semaphore. Treatment with Actellik, Decis or Fosbecid gives a good effect.

Care for your roses properly and eliminate their pests in a timely manner!

Protecting roses from diseases and numerous pests is a constant concern of every gardener. It is better to prevent diseases from occurring than to treat them later. To do this, first of all, when purchasing seedlings, you need to choose resistant varieties.

It is necessary to carry out correct and timely pruning. Roses with frost-damaged wood and many thin shoots grow weakly and are quickly affected by fungal infections. After pruning, it is necessary to remove from the soil all fallen leaves and shoots on which pathogens persist. Also, all foliage must be removed before covering the roses for the winter. Otherwise, the eggs of pests and fungal spores remaining on them will survive the winter well, and with the onset of spring they will infect the plant. It is important to water rose bushes correctly, avoiding water getting on the shoots and foliage.

In a word, roses weaken under unfavorable conditions: lack of light, moisture, mineral nutrition or with an excess of nitrogen fertilizers. As a result, plant resistance to infections and pest infestation decreases.

Basic measures for treating roses:

If affected by fungus and bacterial diseases, remove all infected parts of the plant
- in case of massive mold damage, use sulfur or Funginex
- if affected by bacterial gall disease, it is necessary to completely remove the entire plant from the garden, otherwise it will lead to the death of crops growing nearby

DISEASES OF ROSES:

- 1. Powdery mildew

A fungal disease that manifests itself in the formation of a white, ashy or grayish powdery coating on the surface of leaves, stems, buds and thorns. As a result, plant tissues are destroyed, physiological processes are disrupted, leaves curl, and young sections of shoots die prematurely.

This fungus usually attacks plants in summer or early autumn. The appearance of powdery mildew is promoted by thickened planting, excess air humidity, and lack of nutrients.

- Downy mildew, peronosporosis

The main symptom is the appearance of yellow-brown or colorless spots on the upper side of the leaves, and grayish mold underneath. The appearance of the disease is promoted by low night air temperatures and high daytime temperatures.

Control measures

To combat powdery mildew, use a 1% suspension of colloidal sulfur, which also stimulates the growth and development of roses, especially on alkaline soils. Fertilizing with potassium fertilizers increases the resistance of roses to powdery mildew. If the disease develops strongly, you can spray the plants with soda ash (50 g per 10 liters of water). But the introduction of nitrogen enhances the development of the disease.

It is good to use a copper-soap solution during the growing season (except for the flowering period of roses). To do this, dilute 300 g of green or laundry soap in 9 liters of water. At the same time, prepare a solution of 30 g of copper sulfate and 1 liter of water. Add soap solution to the resulting solution of copper sulfate, stirring. Roses are sprayed with this solution every ten days.

In the fall, it is imperative to remove all affected shoots and leaves, dig up the soil and rotate the layer, as a result of which the pathogens die from a lack of air in the soil. And after pruning, treat with a solution of 3% iron sulfate with 0.3% potassium sulfate or 3% copper sulfate. Roses are also treated with the same solution in the spring before the buds open.

Against powdery mildew, it is good to use wood ash, which is sprinkled on the soil around the bushes in the fall and spring (100-120 g per 1 m2) or embedded in the surface layer. You can also spray rose bushes with sulfur. To do this, prepare an infusion of ash (200 g per 10 liters of water) and mullein (1 kg per 10 liters of water), which is infused for five days. Spraying is carried out until the disease disappears.

Various herbal solutions can also be used:

Horsetail decoction: 1 kg of fresh or 150 g of dry horsetail is diluted in 10 liters of water and left to infuse overnight. Then bring to a boil and cook for half an hour. The resulting broth is cooled, filtered and diluted with water 1:5.
- decoction of garlic: 75 g of finely chopped garlic is mixed with 10 liters of water and brought to a boil over heat. The cooled solution is sprayed onto the plants.

- 2. Rust.

Rust is easy to recognize, but not easy to cure. This disease appears on plants infected with aphids or scale insects. Spores of the fungi that cause rust settle on the honeydew that these insects secrete. Rust pathogens are carried by wind or insects.
Rust appears in the spring as rusty spots on branches. In summer, small bright orange sporulation pads form on the underside of the leaves, turning black by autumn. When the plant is damaged, the functions of the vegetative organs are disrupted: transpiration increases, photosynthesis decreases, breathing becomes difficult and metabolism is disrupted. The appearance of plants becomes depressed: leaves dry out, stems, shoots and flowers become deformed.

Excessive moisture around plants, poor air circulation, and lack of nutrients, especially potassium, contribute to rust.

Control measures:

Pollinating the bush with ground sulfur, or a mixture consisting of ground sulfur with slaked lime in a ratio of 5:1;

In case of severe damage, treat the lower surface of the leaves with copper-containing preparations once every 2.5-3 weeks;

Spraying the plant with a decoction of horsetail;

Spraying and watering the plant with 400-500 g of wormwood tincture fresh leaves or 40-50 g of dried, filled with 10 liters of cold water and infused for about a week until fermentation begins. Before use, the resulting solution must be diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10;

Use of soap solution - 300g of soap per 10l of hot water.
Spray with cooled solution.

I.V. Michurin used milkweed juice or an aqueous extract of its juice to protect roses from rust. The scientist acted as follows: he broke off part of the milkweed stem and rubbed the end with a protruding drop of milky juice on the part of the plant affected by rust. The operation was repeated two to three times a day. If the disease appears immediately on a large area of the bush, then prepare the following solution: soak 1.5 kg of crushed milkweed stems in 10 liters of warm water and infuse the mixture in a warm place for one day. The disease usually goes away after the second spraying.

- 3. Black spot

A fungal disease similar to rust. Appears in the second half of summer in the form of black-brown or black spots on the upper side of the leaves. As a result, the affected leaves turn yellow and fall off. The spores of this fungus are carried by the wind. Yellow roses, which have inherited this predisposition genetically, are most susceptible to black spot. But this scourge rarely affects old, once-blooming European roses.

In spring, you need to regularly inspect the plants to notice the first symptoms of the disease. Affected leaves must be removed from the area.

For prevention purposes, a soap solution is used, as well as decoctions of horsetail and nettle. You can use the drug systane - a special product for caring for roses. If the rose is severely affected by fungus, then a systemic fungicide is used. At the initial stages of the disease, an alternative to chemical fungicides is Cornella's drug (GreenCure), based on potassium bicarbonate.

- 3. Marsonina

A fungal disease that manifests itself as black-brown spotting on the leaves, petioles and stipules of roses. The leaves darken, dry out and fall off. Mycelium and spores overwinter on shoots and leaves.

Control measures

Collecting and burning diseased leaves and shoots, digging up the soil with rotation of the layer, autumn or early spring spraying of roses and soil before buds open with one of the approved preparations.

- 4. Chlorosis

It appears with a lack of nutrients: iron, manganese, zinc, magnesium, boron and others. Initially, the disease affects the youngest leaves - the apical leaves, acquiring a white or white with a creamy tint. Subsequently, its tissues die and the leaf falls off.

Control measures

Compliance with regular fertilizing with complex fertilizers in prescribed doses.

- 5. Botrytis (gray rot)

The causative agent of the disease is a fungus that appears during prolonged wet weather in dense plantings. Gray mold appears on rose buds, which prevents the buds from blooming. Hybrid tea and multi-petal varieties are most susceptible to the disease.

Control measures

It is necessary to promptly remove infected shoots and avoid dense plantings and excessive moisture during watering.

In case of severe damage, fungicides are used.

- 6. Cancer

One of the most dangerous diseases of roses. The first symptoms are the appearance of yellow and brown spots on shoots that darken and deepen over time, and the shoot dies. On the leaves, cancer appears in the form of brown spots with a purple tint, which can be confused with downy mildew.
The fungus that causes cancer lives in the soil and, if the shoots are mechanically damaged, can penetrate inside.

Control measures

Mandatory removal of infected shoots from the site. Application of fungicides.

-7. Root cancer

It appears as a growth at the base of the bush on the root collar or at the grafting site of a budded rose.

Control measures

If the disease is not very advanced, you can cut off the growth with a knife and treat the cut area with any disinfectant.

-8. Mosaic

The mosaic is the result of a virus infecting roses. Appears as a variety of yellow patterns on leaves under heat stress.

ROSES PESTS:

The main pests of roses include aphids, spider mites, scale insects, cicadas, leaf rollers, sawflies, and bronze beetles. To combat the above insects, the following drugs are used: fitoverm, insecticide, actar, intavir, karbofos. Spraying is carried out with water-soap solutions, iron or copper sulfate, paraffin or mineral oil. Biological agents include infusion of nettle or garlic. N.I. Kichunov used tobacco decoction, aloe extract, and kerosene in the fight against insect pests of roses. To prepare tobacco infusion, 400 g of shag are boiled for 30 minutes in 9 liters of water. The broth is infused in a warm place for two days, filtered and added 40 g of green soap diluted in 1 liter of water.

The following infusions are suitable for pest control:

200 g of dry or 600 g of fresh hot pepper are poured into 2 liters of water and boiled for 1 hour. Then the broth is infused for two days, filtered and brought to a volume of 2 liters with water. A liter of the resulting decoction is poured into 10 liters of water, and 40 g of diluted soap is added there.

1 kg of dry yarrow leaf along with 1.5 kg of dry wormwood leaf is diluted in 10 liters warm water and leave for two days, filter. Before spraying, add 40 g of diluted soap to the infusion.

200 g of crushed horse sorrel roots are diluted in 10 liters of warm water, left for 2 hours in a warm place. Before spraying, add 40 g of green soap.

500 g of dried dope in 10 liters of water for 12 hours. Before spraying, add 40 g of soap.

1. Rose aphid

It is located on the underside of leaves, on young shoots, buds and peduncles. Adults lay overwintering eggs in late summer, from which new colonies of aphids emerge in early spring. Aphids suck the juice from young shoots, which subsequently become distorted, the leaves curl and fall off, and the buds do not open. Roses weakened by aphids do not tolerate winter well.

Control measures

In the fight against aphids, spraying 2 g of kerosene per 10 liters of water, as well as spraying with Actofite or Actara, Confidor, helps well.

Biological agents used:

An infusion of 300 g of chopped onion or garlic and 400 g of tomato leaves. The greens are compacted into a three-liter bottle and filled with water. Leave for 6 hours. Then the infusion is filtered and diluted with water to a volume of 10 liters. For better adhesion, add 40 g of green soap to the infusion. Treatment is carried out every seven days in fivefold repetition. The solution can also be used against ticks, suckers, sawflies, and caterpillars.

Pour 10 g of mustard powder into 1 liter of water, leave for two days and bring to 5 liters with water.

Red pepper infusion: dilute 1 package in 1 liter of water

2. Spider mite

A very dangerous pest of roses. It damages the leaves, sucking out the juice from the underside and causing disruption of all physiological functions. As a result, the leaves turn yellow, become covered with small light spots and fall off. You can see a tick with a regular magnifying glass.

Control measures

As a rule, fungicides are used against mites. The biological product Fitoverm has proven itself well for these purposes. During the growing season, the leaves are sprayed on the underside with actophyte, actellik or other acaricides.

Biological treatments:

Yu. M. Kara uses against spider mites:
2% solutions of a concentrated solution of tobacco, fern leaves, calendula seeds, onion scales; 3% - onion bulbs; 8% - yarrow and marigold leaves; 15% - wormwood; 20% - potato tops and tradescantia leaves; 25% infusion of bitter nightshade. According to his data, on the third day after treatment, the death of the pest is 71% from the infusion of onion bulbs, 76.8 - from onion scales, 81.8 - from wormwood, 83.6 - from calendula, 84.6 - from potato tops, 87 .5 - from tradescantia, 88.5 - from fern, 96 - from yarrow, 96.1 - from marigolds, 98 - from nightshade, 100% - from tobacco infusion.

3. Rose cicada

When a cicada infests the leaves on roses, they become covered with small white dots. If the damage is severe, the leaves turn yellow and fall off.

Cicadas can be seen under a magnifying glass in the form of white or pale yellow insects, which are very mobile and, at the slightest touch on a leaf, quickly jump, flying to another place.

Control measures

The same as against aphids.

4. Leafrollers

Leaf rollers are caterpillars that damage leaves and young shoots of roses.

Control measures

When the spread is low, the caterpillars are collected manually, and when the spread is strong, chemicals are used.

5. Roseate sawflies

Adult sawflies resemble a bee in structure, but are black in color and up to 6 mm long. Caterpillar larvae of sawflies bite into a young shoot, where they further development. The damaged shoot darkens and dries out. In autumn, pseudo-caterpillars descend into the soil for the winter.

Control measures

Digging up the top layer of soil in autumn to kill false caterpillars in winter
- pruning of infested shoots before the larvae emerge from them
- spraying with chemicals: actara, confidor, actellik, calypso.

6. Bronzovka and Olenka

Golden-green bronze beetles fly from May to August and lay eggs in soil rich in humus or in manure, which overwinter there and fly out the following summer.

Olenka are black beetles with white spots.

Both beetles eat the petals of rose flowers and eat the stamens and pistils. Flowers of light colors suffer more from them.

Control measures

Collecting beetles early in the morning, when they sit motionless on flowers.

Any lover of these capricious plants has encountered the problem of curling leaves on rose bushes at least once. There can be a lot of reasons for this phenomenon, and all of them have long been established thanks to the experience and observation of experienced gardeners. We invite you to adopt their knowledge and quickly respond to the first signs of leaf curling on roses.

Lack of moisture and high temperature

Summer is a difficult time for all garden plants. Despite the fact that roses are considered body- and light-loving plants, they also suffer from excessively burning sunlight, especially if their influence is supported by a lack of moisture. Regular and proper watering, loosening and mulching of the tree trunk area help rose bushes to more easily survive the heat and maintain the elasticity, freshness and bright color of the foliage. If you rarely visit your garden plot, consider a drip or alternative watering system for your rose garden.

Pests

Viral disease

As a rule, leaf curling is the last symptom of rose bushes becoming infected with a viral disease. Before this, the green part of the plants loses its elasticity and becomes pale, the petals on the buds shrink and fall off at the slightest touch. Gardening practice shows that it is better to immediately dig up such specimens by the roots, preventing the disease from spreading to other plantings.

Lack of potash fertilizers

Roses, price which allows you not to save on feeding, are extremely sensitive to the lack of microelements that are important for them. For example, potassium deficiency weakens the root system of rose bushes and prevents them from accumulating moisture and valuable nutrients. Again, an excess of potassium fertilizers is fraught with deformation of plant tissues and, as a result, irreversible curling of its foliage. As an option, you can quickly transplant the bush to a new place, saving at least new shoots and young leaves.

We will tell you about rose pests and how to deal with them.

Spider mite

This insect is found in almost every garden and affects any plants: fruit trees, grapes, flowers, berries, vegetables; Roses are no exception. Thus, of all insect pests, spider mites are the most common. It causes the plant to weaken. Because of this, it begins to lose leaves and, as a result, becomes more vulnerable to disease.

Sparrows and other birds, for which these insects are food, help fight many pests in the garden.

The spider mite is a very small insect, so it is very difficult to detect it on the plant. The length of individuals reaches only 2 mm, the largest of them are females. On the leaves they appear as moving black dots. The spider mite has an oval body and 8 legs, which are covered with numerous bristles. The insect lays eggs that look like a transparent drop, which turns creamy when it is time to hatch.

Spider mites live in a colony, the number of which can be more than 100 individuals. Most often, the pest can be found on the underside of the leaves of the plant, where a thick cobweb is formed, under which small insects run.

To get rid of spider mites for a long time, you need to fight them at all stages of their life cycle. Spider mites feed on green leaves of plants, so they will live in the garden and reproduce almost all summer. For this reason, it is very difficult to get rid of it.

When cold weather sets in, spider mites move into fallen leaves and overwinter in them, which is why it is so important to clean the leaves in the garden in the fall and then burn them. This way you can get rid of hidden pests, as well as destroy the spores of many fungal diseases. If the foliage is not removed, then in the spring, with the onset of warmth, the spider mite will crawl out of its winter home and again settle on green leaves, causing harm to plants.

When the number of spider mites is low, there is no need to worry. However, this insect multiplies quickly, which leads to harmful consequences. Spider mites make their home on rose leaves and feed on their sap. When a plant is in the stage of active growth, it needs to strengthen its roots, but if it loses nutritious juices from the leaves, it quickly weakens, so it has to replenish their loss to the detriment of the roots. Dots appear on leaves affected by spider mites, which turn yellow and fall off.

Spider mites affect not only the leaves, but also the stems and buds of roses. If the summer is dry and the plant lacks moisture, then the damage from insect pests becomes even greater. Young seedlings especially suffer from exhaustion. It is very important to control the number of poutine mites, otherwise entire rose bushes can die.

Prevention. When newly planted seedlings and bushes begin to experience active growth, it is recommended to carry out regular watering, as this increases the plant’s protection from damage by spider mites. It is also necessary to treat the bushes with a soap solution - this will protect the leaves not only from spider mites, but also from other insect pests. The use of broad-spectrum drugs, on the contrary, should be avoided, because in this way it is possible to destroy insects that are the natural enemies of spider mites, as a result of which the invasion of this pest can only intensify. To control the number of spider mites, it is better to avoid frequent use of drugs that kill the enemies of this insect.

Control measures. Although spider mites are very small, the harm they cause is very great. Due to the size of the pest, it is difficult to notice it on the bush until cobwebs appear and the leaves begin to turn yellow. Here it is recommended to only frequently check the underside of the leaves for cobwebs. True, here it is important to make sure that it is a spider mite, and not its enemy - a spider that catches this pest. In addition to spiders, some bugs and fly larvae help in the fight against spider mites; they do not cause any harm to roses and provide an opportunity to use chemicals less often.

As a rule, the number of spider mites begins to increase after the use of insecticides against other insect pests. In addition, some preparations containing pyrethrins and phosphates increase the level of nitrogen on the leaves, which only benefits spider mite.

If its number is small, then you can get rid of it by washing the leaves with water or acaricides. Chemical preparations against spider mites are recommended to be used only in cases where there is an outbreak of their numbers.

Soap or insecticidal solutions help well, which are recommended to be used in cool weather. When processing, it is necessary to ensure that the drug gets on all the leaves, and especially on their underside. You can also use fitoverm. It is recommended to re-treat against spider mites after 2 weeks.

Rose leaf roller

This is a small, inconspicuous butterfly with a brown color, a wingspan of about 2 cm and a lifespan of about 2 weeks.

In early autumn, the leaf roller lays yellowish eggs on the smooth side of tree bark, where they overwinter. A clutch can contain up to 200 eggs, approximately 5 mm in diameter. By the end of spring, greenish-brown caterpillars emerge from them, reaching a length of 25 mm, and they are the ones who mainly harm roses. Caterpillars eat the pulp of leaves on almost all shrubs and trees in the garden.

From the beginning of May, the leaf roller caterpillar can be found on the leaves of plants. Its lifespan is 1-1.5 months, so by mid-summer the number of this pest decreases.

The leaf roller got its name due to the fact that in the process of weaving a web on the underside of the leaf, it rolls it into a tube.

Leafworm caterpillars feed on the pulp of leaves and buds of roses, after which holes remain on the leaves and they become deformed. Holes in the leaves create obstacles that do not allow nutrients to flow in the required quantities, so the leaves are not just damaged in appearance - their deformation leads to a weakening of the plant.

When a rose begins to bloom, the caterpillar eats the pistils, stamens and petals, and the buds become shrouded in cobwebs. On the underside of the leaf, the caterpillar weaves a web, and the leaf curls into a tube. In July, this tube contains an already pupated caterpillar, and in August a butterfly is born from it. It takes 2-2.5 weeks for a caterpillar to turn into a butterfly.

Prevention. Dealing with the leaf roller is quite simple. For prevention, you can use a nitrophen solution in early spring, which will protect rose buds from damage. It is necessary to dilute 200-300 g of this product in 10 liters of water and spray the leaves of the plant.

Control measures. It is recommended to combat this pest during all periods of its life cycle. First, you need to monitor the appearance of holes on the leaves of the rose, and then make sure that they are left by the leaf roller caterpillar. Next, you should determine the number of caterpillars. If it is small, you just need to collect and destroy individual individuals, but if there are a lot of caterpillars, you need to spray the plants with insecticides. For example, use the drug "Aktara" for this purpose.

In addition to collecting and destroying caterpillars, it is also important to catch leaf roller butterflies so that they do not have time to lay eggs, from which new insects will appear next year. Why use special traps, for example, glue a triangular house from a sheet of paper, inside which place a sticky substance containing pheromones. It is enough to make several of these traps and hang them around the bushes to get rid of a large number of butterflies.

Thrips

These small and nimble black insects, the adult of which reaches a size of only 2-3 mm, are very difficult to detect. They mainly live in rose buds, so you can see them on flower petals.

In hot and dry weather, roses suffer more from thrips, which penetrate the plant tissue and feed on its sap. If the edges of the petals have darkened or discolored spots have appeared on the leaves and petals, then the rose is most likely affected by thrips. This insect also harms the rose buds, which develop poorly, and because of it the flowers become less lush and beautiful. Thrips weaken the plant, making it more susceptible to infection by fungal diseases.

The life cycle of thrips consists of several periods, during some of which these pests are actually not susceptible to the effects of chemicals, and therefore are very difficult to destroy.

It is almost impossible to fight thrips with chemicals in the very first phase of their life - the egg stage. By spraying roses with preparations, it is possible to destroy only adult insects that were feeding on the plant at that time, but they have already managed to lay eggs under the skin of the leaves.

Before becoming an adult, the thrips larva hides in the soil at the roots of the plant. During this period, it stops feeding, and the ground hides it, so neither systemic nor contact insecticides will work. In addition, thrips quickly get used to chemicals, making it even more difficult to fight them. To get the effect of controlling these pests, it is recommended to alternate drugs with different active substances, as well as increase the concentration of insecticides.

Prevention. To effectively deal with thrips, you need to monitor their appearance and alternate methods of control. Pests develop especially quickly in hot and dry weather - only 2 weeks pass, during which adults develop from eggs. In cold weather, this cycle takes about a month. Therefore, it is useful to increase air humidity, water roses and spray their leaves with cold water.

❧ One of the most ancient diseases of roses is powdery mildew, the first mention of which was found in 300 BC. e.

Control measures. You can spray roses with chemicals, but re-treatment should be done after some time so that the plant gets stronger and does not die. During this period, a new generation of thrips manages to appear, which also lay eggs. To prevent this, it is recommended to use a solution of laundry soap between chemical sprays. The leaves are washed or sprayed with it, and after a while it is washed off with clean water so that the roses begin to breathe again.

For thrips, bushes are sprayed with systemic insecticides, to which flea shampoo is sometimes added.

During treatment, it is necessary to destroy the affected parts of the plant, since insect eggs are usually laid in them, and also remove the flower stalks so that the thrips have nothing to feed on.

From the larvae and eggs of thrips laid in the soil, loosening the soil at the roots helps, which allows you to lift pests from the depths. Then the soil must be sprayed with insecticides.

Scale insects on roses

Scale insects are a type of insect pest that affects both garden and house roses. It is very difficult to get rid of it, since the adult is covered with a durable shell that protects it from the effects of chemicals. Scale insects appear on roses that have been improperly or insufficiently cared for, on sick and weak plants, and with excessive or insufficient watering.

The insect feeds on the sap of the plant and secretes nectar, which remains on the leaves and stems of roses; It is from these traces that one can first notice the presence of a pest. Nectar is a sticky coating that needs to be removed, as it causes sooty fungus to appear.

Another sign of a plant being affected by scale insects is the presence of scales on the shoots and leaves of roses. In fact, this is an adult scale insect at this stage of development; the insect is attached to the plant and covered with a kind of shield, from under which it is very difficult to get it out, and chemical preparations are ineffective. The adult scale insect leads a sedentary lifestyle.

Prevention. At the end of winter - beginning of spring, care must be taken to ensure that the rose bushes are well ventilated and air circulates freely between the stems. To do this, it is important to carry out spring pruning. Also, as a preventative measure, you should regularly inspect the plants, especially from below, in order to detect signs of damage in time. In addition, rose bushes should be frequently sprayed with water, but done in the morning so that it has time to evaporate during the day.

Control measures. It is easier to get rid of this pest in the early stages of its appearance, so it is important to inspect the stems and leaves of roses to identify signs of scale insect damage. If a sticky coating or hard scales are found, it is necessary to immediately begin pest control.

There are no special chemicals against scale insects, so you can get rid of it by removing it from the plant. Why use rags, sticks or brushes soaked in soapy water? Moreover, it is better to use a cloth or soft sponge that does not damage the plants. This measure will not only help get rid of scale insects, but will also make roses unattractive to other harmful insects.

If the number of scale insects is large, you can spray the bushes with a soap solution adding machine oil or kerosene to it at a rate of 5-6 drops per 1 liter of water. In this case, the insect will have nothing to breathe.

It is not recommended to use insecticides as they can kill beneficial insects. However, if the number of scale insects is such that it can lead to the death of plants, you can treat them with broad-spectrum or systemic drugs, for example “Aktara”.

The scale insect lays eggs under its shell, which remain overwintering on the plant, so during autumn harvesting it is necessary to carry out preventive control of this pest by washing it off.

Pest Control, causing diseases roses, very important, because If protective measures are not applied, the plant affected by pests often dies.

Timely and correct implementation of protective measures forms the basis of preventive protection of roses.

Advice: When starting preventative measures against diseases and pests, it is necessary to use protective equipment against pesticides - use respirators and rubber gloves. After finishing treatment, wash your hands and face thoroughly with soap and water.

Rose pests: varieties and control methods

During the growing season, when buds, leaves, flowers, and roses begin to develop on the plant, they most urgently need protection from pests - beetles, caterpillars, sawfly larvae. These pests slow down the growth and development of bushes, eating and gnawing various passages, damaging the buds.

Rose sawfly caterpillars

The most common sucking pests are mites, scale insects, cicadas, and aphids, which can reproduce both in open and protected ground.

rose aphid

They settle on roses, located on the underside of leaves, on the stems of young shoots, and on buds. They multiply very quickly. A female rose aphid can lay about a hundred larvae at a time and produce new offspring ten days later. Insects grow quickly and suck the sap from plants. Roses weakened by aphids grow poorly, shoots often bend, leaves curl and dry out, and buds do not open or produce ugly flowers.

The appearance of aphids on roses is facilitated by ants in the rose garden. Perhaps there is an anthill nearby - it must be eradicated along with the aphids.

Ants graze aphids, they protect aphid colonies and even organize new colonies, moving the founding females to places not yet inhabited by pests.

Fighting methods:

To combat rose aphids and their larvae, it is necessary to treat rose bushes with contact insecticides even before the buds swell in the spring. Regular spraying of plants with insecticides at intervals of 10 days (preferably alternating different ones), such as Iskra, Komandor, Aktara, Tanrek, Inta-vir.

Later, one of the following insecticides is used: actellik, antio, karbofos, metathion, rogor and others.

You can spray roses with a weak solution of kerosene: 2 g of kerosene per 10 liters of water.

From folk remedies: Chop 300 g or garlic into a 3-liter jar, add 400 g of tomato leaves, fill with water and leave to steep in a warm place for 6 hours. Then mix, filter, bring the volume to 10 liters. For better adhesion of the solution to the leaves, you need to add 40 g of 72% laundry soap. Treat every 7 days. This solution can also be used against ticks, suckers, sawflies, and caterpillars.

Rose leafhopper

They also feed on plant sap. They cause great harm to the entire culture. They reproduce quickly, developing two to three generations per year. Cicada larvae are small, inactive, and white. Located on the underside of the leaves. The body of an adult leafhopper is white or pale yellow, elongated. Adults are very mobile - at the slightest touch on a leaf, they quickly jump and fly to another place.

When a rose is infected by leafhoppers, the leaves become covered with small white dots. If plants are not treated promptly, the spread of pests can lead to premature yellowing and falling of leaves.

Slobbery pennies, or omnivorous leafhoppers

The insects secrete a saliva-like foam in which they live, sucking the juice from the roses. Slobbery pennies are located in the axils of the leaves and on the underside. The body of an adult is yellow-gray and very mobile. When the leaves are touched, the larvae quickly jump out of the foam and hide.

Control measures: Treatment of plants, as well as the surrounding area, with insecticides 2-3 times with an interval of 10-12 days.

Spider mite

An adult tick has an oval shape, greenish yellow color with black spots on the back. In winter, the body color changes to orange or red. Females lay eggs under a thin web. After five to seven days, green larvae hatch from the eggs. A female can lay up to 180 eggs in one litter.

Spider mites can be found on the underside of rose leaves, where they reproduce and suck the sap from the plant. As a result, the leaves turn yellow. Yellowness of leaves is often confused with diseases, such as chlorosis, but in fact it may well be the work of spider mites. Using a magnifying glass, you can easily see the pest.

Fighting methods:

Spraying with one of the acaricides: acrex - 0.08%, isofen - 0.05%, omaite - 0.1% or other analogues.

For closed ground conditions, it is most harmless to use drugs of the avermectin group: Actofite, Fitoverm, Vermitek.

Leafrollers

Leafrollers come in rose and fruit varieties. Both of them cause great harm to the leaves and young shoots of roses. The first caterpillars appear early in the spring, damaging barely opened buds, then young shoots and leaves.

Fighting methods: When the distribution of leaf rollers is small, the caterpillars are collected by hand and destroyed. In the spring, before the buds open, the bushes are sprayed with one of the pesticides.

Folk remedy: If you sprinkle mustard on a rose, you can get rid of leaf roller caterpillars, as well as aphids and other pests. But this method is better to combine with protective drugs, such as Aktara, Intavir + shed the soil around the roses

Roseate sawflies

There are two species: the white-banded sawfly and the descending sawfly. The most common is the downward sawfly. False caterpillars, or sawfly larvae, overwinter in cocoons in the soil. In the spring they pupate and adult insects emerge from the pupae. The length of an adult insect is up to 6 mm, its back is shiny, black, its wings are darkish, its legs are black, its legs are yellowish. Females lay eggs one at a time on the tops of young shoots. Having emerged from the eggs, the false caterpillars bite into a young shoot, make a move up to 4 cm long inside it (from top to bottom) and develop there. The damaged shoot darkens and dries out. In autumn, pseudo-caterpillars descend into the soil for the winter.

Fighting methods:

In the fall, they dig up the soil under the bushes so that the false caterpillars end up on the surface and freeze in winter. Plants are sprayed with one of the pesticides against hatching caterpillars. Pruning and burning of infested shoots is carried out until the larvae emerge from them.

Beetles - bronze beetle and fawn

The bronze beetle is a golden-green beetle, 15-20 mm long.

Olenka is a black hairy beetle 8-12 mm long.

Beetles fly from May to August. Both species feed on rose flower petals, stamens and pistils.

Female beetles lay eggs in the soil, where by the end of summer they turn into larvae, then pupate in the soil, and the beetles hatch, overwinter there, and fly out the following summer.

Fighting methods: Beetles must be collected in the morning, when they sit motionless on the flowers. Then burn it. Sprinkle roses with mustard. You can cover the bushes with netting to prevent the beetle from reaching the roses.

Leaf Cutter Bee

Another pest of roses is the leafcutter bee. Her work can be recognized by the correctly cut, perfectly even oval or round holes in the leaves of roses. The leafcutter bee uses pieces of leaves to build a nest. The pest's nest consists of cells and the diameter of the cut pieces of leaves is equal to the diameter of the cell. In total, it can take more than 1,000 pieces to build a nest. There she lays her eggs.

Fighting methods: Unlike previous pests, the damage from leaf-cutter bees is minimal - they do not spoil buds and flowers or suck out the juice. It probably only deteriorates appearance leaves - they become full of holes and not beautiful. In this case, spraying plants with insecticides is not necessary; natural protection in the form of a net can be used.
You can spray roses with preparations that kill wasps - Super Fas, Otos, Adamant. This should be done late in the evening.

We will tell you about rose pests and how to deal with them.

Spider mite

Sparrows and other birds, for which these insects are food, help fight many pests in the garden.

To get rid of spider mites for a long time, it is necessary to fight them at all stages of their life cycle. Spider mites feed on green leaves of plants, so they will live in the garden and reproduce almost all summer. For this reason, it is very difficult to get rid of it.

Rose leaf roller

This is a small, inconspicuous butterfly with a brown color, a wingspan of about 2 cm and a lifespan of about 2 weeks.

From the beginning of May, the leaf roller caterpillar can be found on the leaves of plants. Its lifespan is 1-1.5 months, so by mid-summer the number of this pest decreases.

The leaf roller got its name due to the fact that in the process of weaving a web on the underside of the leaf, it rolls it into a tube.

Leafworm caterpillars feed on the pulp of leaves and buds of roses, after which holes remain on the leaves and they become deformed. Holes in the leaves create obstacles that do not allow nutrients to flow in the right quantities, so the leaves are not just damaged in appearance - their deformation leads to a weakening of the plant.

Thrips

These small and nimble black insects, the adult of which reaches a size of only 2-3 mm, are very difficult to detect. They mainly live in rose buds, so you can see them on flower petals.

The life cycle of thrips consists of several periods, during some of which these pests are actually not susceptible to the effects of chemicals, and therefore are very difficult to destroy.

❧ One of the most ancient diseases of roses is powdery mildew, the first mention of which was found in 300 BC. e.

For thrips, bushes are sprayed with systemic insecticides, to which flea shampoo is sometimes added.

During treatment, it is necessary to destroy the affected parts of the plant, since insect eggs are usually laid in them, and also remove the flower stalks so that the thrips have nothing to feed on.

From the larvae and eggs of thrips laid in the soil, loosening the soil at the roots helps, which allows you to lift pests from the depths. Then the soil must be sprayed with insecticides.

Scale insects on roses

The scale insect lays eggs under its shell, which remain overwintering on the plant, so during autumn harvesting it is necessary to carry out preventive control of this pest by washing it off.

It is imperative to protect garden roses from pests not only in the spring, but throughout the entire growing season. Rose pests can seriously harm a flower garden, so you need to learn to recognize them, as well as find the best measures to combat them.

Spider mite

This pest is quite dangerous for roses, especially if you deal with them. Here the microclimate is so attractive for it that it can develop throughout the year. Spider mites are insects with oval-shaped bodies of a reddish color. They settle on the underside of the leaf blade, gradually sucking the juices out of the plant and weakening it.

How to spray roses against pests is with special acaricidal preparations. These include, first of all, “Isofen”, “Omite”, etc. What is interesting is that if the infection of roses by spider mites is still under control early stage, you can pause it using cold water- for this, the leaves on the underside are sprayed with cold water 3-4 times a day.

Leaf Cutter Bee

If the rose leaves have holes, or rather their edges are slightly chewed out, it means that you are dealing with a leaf-cutter bee. It won’t do much harm, since all it can do is chew small holes on the leaf plate, nothing more.

Of course, any responsible gardener would not want to see the aesthetic appearance of a plant deteriorate. In addition, because of the leaf-cutter bee, metabolism can also decrease. You can eliminate the insect using a soap solution that is sprayed on the bushes. Also try to clear the substrate of weeds in a timely manner.

Bronzovka and sawfly

It is worth finding out in more detail how to treat garden roses against pests such as bronze and sawfly, since there is a lot of harm from them. The shiny green bug (bronze bug) most often prefers white or yellow roses. People call it the “May bug,” and it would seem that it should not harm plants. However, it severely damages the flowers.

As for sawflies, they actively feed on rose leaves. Some of their species are able to penetrate inside the shoots, eating them from the inside. It is recommended to fight such a “disease” with the help of special chemicals that can save you from such an invasion in the shortest possible time.

Aphid

These shiny insects can harm both garden roses and those plants grown in greenhouses. As a rule, they form their numerous colonies not on foliage, but on young shoots and buds. As a result of their active activity, the shoots of the plant are noticeably bent, and the flowering of roses may not begin. The most the best way The fight against aphids on roses is to spray the bushes with chemicals. Among the most popular are “Confidor”, “Alatar”, etc.

Weevil

How to treat garden roses if the weevil does not appear on them is a question flower growers also have to face. This is a medium-sized beetle, grey-black in color, and cannot fly. It feeds on plant leaves, gnawing on their edges. It is not so easy to notice its invasion on flowers, since it is active at night and hides in the ground in the summer. This insect eats not only the foliage, but also the flowers of the plant. In this case, you need to treat green leaves with special insecticides.

Cicadas and gallworms

Bugs on your favorite roses can multiply quickly and cause even more damage to your plants. What is dangerous about the cicada is its ability to settle on the lower part of rose leaves and suck the juice from them. Soon the leaf plate changes color and becomes covered with a white marble coating. No less dangerous for roses and gallworms. It causes special growths - galls - to appear on rose bushes.

Thrips

Pests on fragrant roses can bring a lot of trouble to plants. Thrips primarily feed on sap, sucking it from leaves and shoots. You can find out that the roses were attacked by these insects by the small reddish dots that appeared on the leaves. In addition, rose buds do not hold their shape and fade quite quickly.

Video “Rose Pest Control”

In this video you will learn about common rose pests and how to combat them.

What to process

In any case, your key task is to determine what exactly you are dealing with, and then select the appropriate preparations for spraying.

Chemicals

Insecticides or acaricides - these groups medicinal compositions will help you quickly get rid of pests on roses. Follow the instructions to properly dilute the drug. Don’t forget about personal safety: when working with chemicals, you need to wear a protective suit and also wear a respirator or mask.

Quite often, small and large holes form on the foliage of roses, which are the consequences of pests visiting the bushes, as well as damage from pathogenic fungi.

Alfalfa Leaf Cutter Bee

Alfalfa leaf cutters, unlike other species, are not social insects, but live alone. Her presence on rose bushes can be identified with the naked eye by the perfectly cut large notches in the leaves. Parts of the foliage that the bee cuts out are required for the construction and arrangement of the nest house. Therefore, the insect uses pieces of leaves not for food, but for construction. By eliminating weedy flowering grass from the garden plot, which attracts insects with its aroma, you can get rid of the “pest builder”.

Symptoms

The presence of alfalfa leaf cutter on roses can be determined due to:

cosmetic defect in the form of even holes on the leaves;
Not causing diseases damage to the foliage that does not affect the vessels of the plant.

Raspberry weevil

Small, up to 4 mm, black-gray bugs that overwinter under fallen leaves in the top layer of soil go hunting in early spring at a daytime air temperature of +10 degrees. The awakening of the pest coincides with the beginning of the growth of young rose leaves, which are immediately perforated by the elephant weevil. The danger to rose bushes is posed not only by adults, but also by larvae that live in the soil and eat the roots.

Female elephant weevils lay eggs in the plant tissue itself, using stems, leaves and buds. The larva grows by eating the plant from the inside, then pupates. Therefore, if the pest population is large, rose bushes may die.

Symptoms

When inspecting rose bushes, to detect a pest, you should pay attention to the following signs:

small puncture holes that elephant weevils make with their proboscis when feeding;
wilted stalks that look as if they were not completely cut off with a knife.

Important!

The elephant weevil poses a particular danger to rose bushes growing under the canopy of trees, as well as dense plantings.

Alenka furry

A lamellar beetle dangerous for roses, feeding mainly on flowers and fruits. After wintering in early spring, in early March, the bronze fly flies out to hunt, beginning its pest activity on early flowering plants. Alenka's flight takes place from March 25 to June 25, at the height of the mass flowering of roses. The furry Alenka actively eats pink blossoming buds of predominantly light flowers, eating irregularly shaped holes in flowers and young leaves. In case of danger, the pest releases a specific liquid, which is subsequently colonized by phytoplasmas.

Symptoms

When attacking Alenka hairy roses, the following signs appear:

the appearance of irregularly shaped holes on petals and young leaves;
the appearance of deformed buds, inside of which several furry black beetles will sit.

Borer and rose sawfly

Symptoms

Borers and sawflies are very difficult to notice with the naked eye. However, their residence on roses can be determined by the following signs:

the appearance of small holes on foliage and plant stems;
lethargy and change in color of leaves and buds;
a void where the stem bends.

Important!

It is very difficult to distinguish the roseate sawfly from the borer. The only sign that distinguishes them is that when attacked by a sawfly, the stems, foliage and buds wither faster for several days than when attacked by a borer.

Apple gall moth

Symptoms

Characteristic features Infestations of roses with gallworms are:

the appearance of specific swellings on the foliage;
torn foliage disfigured by growths-galls.

Gnawing cutworms

The most dangerous pests ornamental shrubs The cutworm caterpillars, which eat the foliage and buds of plants with great speed. Pest butterflies fly out to hunt only at night, and the offspring carry out their activities to destroy the vegetative mass around the clock. Females lay eggs on the buds and foliage of rose bushes from early May to mid-July. And just 4-6 days after the eggs are laid, voracious caterpillars hatch from them. Due to the large accumulation of larvae, the bushes become bare of foliage in just one week. They weaken due to lack of nutrients, impaired photosynthesis and die.

Symptoms

When armyworm larvae attack bushes, the following symptoms appear:

irregularly shaped holes on all leaves;
complete exposure of bushes.

Leafrollers

Symptoms

irregularly shaped holes on young foliage;
twisting damaged leaves into straws using a web.

Important!

To prevent the arrival and attack of leaf roller and cutworm butterflies, in a good way The pest can be repelled by installing jars of kerosene or diesel fuel under the rose bushes.

Treatment

Pest control should be carried out during all periods of the plant’s life cycle, using chemical means of protection and alternative traditional methods.

Chemicals

Commander;
Aktara;
Tanrek;
Karbofos;
Bison;
Spark – Double effect;
Lightning;
Antio;
Karbofos.

Folk remedies

Traditional methods are used as a protective measure to control pests without the use of chemicals.

Onion peel tincture with hot pepper

Preparation:

In a container with a volume of 8 liters, add 500 onion peels, 1 teaspoon of ground red hot pepper, half a grated piece of laundry soap;
pour the ingredients with hot water, leave for three days, strain;
Spray if there are leaf rollers, cutworms, borers, sawflies and weevils on the plants once every three days.

Important!

The prepared infusion of onion peels will also help get rid of other sucking pests of roses such as aphids, thrips, spider mites.

Infusion of yarrow and tomato tops

Tomato tops contain toxins that have a detrimental effect on many insect pests, and yarrow will strengthen the immunity of roses.

Preparation:

Place 2 kg of fresh yarrow herb and 3 kg of tomato tops in a 10-liter metal container and fill with water;
put the mixture on the fire, bring to a boil, leave to infuse for 4 hours;
After steeping, strain the broth, add 2 caps of dishwashing detergent;
spray rose bushes against pests every 5-7 days.

Resistant varieties

Gloria Day;
Pomponella;
Music Box;
Aphrodite;
Alexander Pushkin;
Leonardo da Vinci;
Anton Chekhov;
Pastella;
Westernland.

Important!

When choosing the rose you like, you should also take into account the climate resistance of the plants. So, for example, for the central part of Russia and the former CIS republics, the most suitable will be reliable northern varieties, with which there are fewer worries when preparing for winter.

Prevention

Caring for the rose garden includes a whole range of preventive measures: