Cuttings of ornamental shrubs. Cuttings of roses in August: Khabarovsk experience We check the green shoot for readiness for cuttings
We start cuttings: how it's done
Propagation of ornamental plants, especially shrubs and conifers, using cuttings allows you to get proven planting material and grow a wide range of trees and shrubs at no cost. At the same time, the process of cuttings, at first glance very simple, is fraught with many subtleties that are learned only from one's own experience. Tatyana POPOVA, a gardener-practitioner from St. Petersburg, tells about them.
Rooting cuttings
Rooting cuttings is very individual. Some species take root always and easily, others only under certain conditions, and others do not take root at all. There are many industrial and semi-industrial methods of cutting plants, mainly in closed ground, using fogging installations. These methods increase the percentage of rooting, reduce the time, make it possible to root capricious cuttings. Amateur flower growers can also master such methods, but this requires investment and is quite laborious. This article will discuss the rooting of plants in the ground, which is available to any gardener.
In the process of cuttings of all plants, there is much in common, but there are some individual characteristics in species and even varieties. Therefore, we first consider the general principles, and then examples of cuttings of some crops. For good rooting, the terms of grafting, and the correct preparation of the cuttings, and the soils used, and the care of the cuttings, and their preparation for wintering are important. Let's consider these questions in more detail.
Preparation of cuttings
When preparing cuttings for planting, pay attention to the following:
Terms of harvesting cuttings, the degree of their lignification
The size of the cutting, the number of buds
Condition of the cutting: time of cutting, storage, presence of leaves
Treatment of cuttings with growth substances
Protection of cuttings from infection
Usually consider propagation by green or grassy, semi-lignified and lignified cuttings. Green cuttings herbaceous perennials reproduce best, semi-lignified shrubs in summer, lignified shrubs in early spring or autumn, and conifers in spring.
It is very profitable to propagate many shrubs: roses, hydrangeas, actinidia, clematis with last year's lignified cuttings during spring pruning of plants, although the percentage of rooting in this case is not very high, and after a cold winter they can be frozen. You can prepare the same cuttings in the fall and store them without overdrying (for example, wrapped in sphagnum moss), in the basement, refrigerator, buried in a pit, or planted in boxes right in the fall and kept until spring at a positive temperature.
But best of all, most shrubs are cut in the summer in June or early July with semi-lignified shoots of the current year. Usually cuttings are cut at a time when the shoot itself is still green, and its base is already woody. For spring-blooming shrubs that form buds on last year's shoots, this is the time at the very end of flowering or after it (forsythia, actinidia, white-flowered spireas). For shrubs that bloom on the shoots of the current year, this is the period of the beginning of budding (hydrangeas, roses, pink-flowered spireas). Easily rooted shrubs can be propagated for a long period of time, and for those that take root more difficult, it is very important to choose the optimal cutting time.
Usually, a fairly long one-year-old shoot with or without a bud is cut, cut into pieces with two leaves or pairs of leaves and one internode, removing the top with a bud or unripe buds. The cuts on the handle are made oblique 1 cm above and below the buds (the base of the leaves). Small annual twigs, which are many in all shrubs, take root very well. It is good to root such a branch as a whole, pinching the top. The lower part of the cutting should be freed from leaves by about 5 cm. If there are a lot of leaves on the handle or they are large, some of them are removed to reduce evaporation.
It is better to cut the cuttings in the morning or in the evening from relatively young plants or from their younger part, the plants should not be overdried. It is necessary to ensure that the cuttings do not fade the leaves. Shoots cut into cuttings or prepared cuttings can be stored in water for some time.
To improve rooting it is desirable to treat the ends of the cuttings with root-forming substances: soak in a solution of heteroauxin or dip in root root powder. It is possible to carry out the beginning of rooting in a vessel with water and plant it for growing with short roots of 0.5-1.0 cm. But I prefer to root the cuttings immediately in the ground.
If plants are highly susceptible to diseases, such as roses, the cuttings can get sick and die during the rooting process (rose cuttings often turn black). For disinfection, it is desirable to pickle them in a solution of copper oxychloride, foundation, maxim, etc. The upper end of the cutting must be treated with green paint or a special rannet to protect against infection.
It is advisable to immediately prepare tags with the names of plants, planting dates, planting features. I usually make tags from aluminum cans, on which I squeeze out inscriptions with a ballpoint pen, you can make them from plastic bottles and write with a felt-tip pen.
soil for rooting
The following requirements are imposed on the soil for rooting:
Good moisture holding capacity
Breathability
No infection
The ability to hold an earthen ball well, not to crumble during transplantation
It is often recommended that for rooting cuttings on nutrient soil, pour coarse sand and plant the cuttings in the sand so that the growing roots go into the nutrient soil. But for me, this method of rooting did not give positive results: the cuttings did not stand well in the sand, the surface of the sand dried up a lot, when watering, the water rolled off the sandy surface and was absorbed unevenly. The best result was obtained when cuttings were planted in a mixture of coarse sand with peat or sphagnum moss, and for more moisture-loving plants, I increased the proportion of peat or sphagnum, and for plants prone to warming, the proportion of sand. When using sphagnum when transplanting, the soil does not crumble, and this makes it easier to extract rooted cuttings.
Just planted cuttings of mock orange and conifers: arborvitae, thuevica, juniper.
You can also plant cuttings in normal garden soil, adding peat to increase moisture capacity and coarse sand or perlite to improve breathability. Rooting soil should not be nutritious. Nutrition will be needed next year when growing young plants, and then they can be fertilized.
The soil should not be a source of infection. It is better to use fresh soil or shed it before planting with phytosporin, maxim, etc.
Planting cuttings and caring for them, shelter for the winter
In the process of planting and caring for cuttings, it is necessary to ensure:
Deepening of the lower kidney by 1 - 2 cm, tight fixing in the soil
Optimal humidity of air and soil in the cuttings
Removal of dead cuttings
Fight against moles and snails, pests and diseases
preparation for winter
Shelter cuttings for the winter
Timely opening in the spring
Growing rooted plants
Prepared cuttings need to be quickly planted in the cuttings. I usually plant the cuttings at an angle, maintaining the position of the top and bottom surfaces of the cutting, especially in flat-branched and coniferous plants, and press the base of the cuttings tightly. I plant in longitudinal or transverse rows with distances between them of 10-15 cm, the distance between the cuttings is 4-10 cm, depending on the size of the cuttings, and I put tags. I immediately water the cuttings abundantly from a watering can with a small strainer and correct those that have shifted. After 30-60 minutes of drying, so that the cuttings are not wet, I close the cuttings, as described above.
During the summer, about once every two weeks, the cuttings need to be opened, weeds and dead cuttings removed. A sign of their death is blackening or drying, premature yellowing or dropping of leaves. If the earth is dry, you need to water it from a watering can with a fine sieve or spray it for uniform moistening to a depth of at least 5 cm.
During the rooting of cuttings and the next year during growing, it is necessary to monitor the appearance of diseases and pests and take action in time. For preventive purposes and to improve the growth of cuttings, it is useful to spray them with phytosporin, growth stimulants (epin, zircon, etc.), and for better root formation with heteroauxin, root. It is necessary to monitor the appearance of moles, snails and fight them in a timely manner. In some plants, new shoots grow in the process of rooting and even buds may appear. Shoots need to be pinched, buds removed.
In August - September, when the cuttings are already rooted, the film from the cuttings must be removed, and it is better to leave lutrasil. Lutrasil does not allow cuttings to dry out quickly and protects them from dry leaves falling on them. In dry autumn, cuttings occasionally have to be watered.
Before the onset of winter at the end of September - October, the cuttings must be covered, after removing leaves, weeds and everything that can contribute to their decay from them. It is important to insulate them a little in case there is no snow, and carefully close the more heat-loving ones. The cuttings are easily undercooked in winter, therefore it is impossible to cover them with polyethylene and it is desirable to provide an air gap over them. For this, you can put spruce branches under the lutrasil, but I do it differently. On both sides of the cuttings I install low supports 15-30 cm from logs, bricks or small boxes, I put any slats, sticks, gratings on them and cover them with non-woven material in 1-2 layers. With such a shelter, the cuttings are very well preserved even in wet years and during the formation of crust due to frequent changes in weather.
In the spring, cuttings covered with lutrasil can be opened at different times, but not before the soil has completely melted. In early spring, the cuttings can be washed with melt water, dug up by moles, etc. It is necessary to straighten the cuttings, make sure that the roots are well sprinkled with earth. Usually immediately plant such plants on permanent place no, they need to grow up. For this, you can transplant them to a special bed with good soil, more lit. But I usually leave them in place, remove the shade, feed them with a solution of mineral fertilizers, water them during the summer and plant them in a permanent place next spring. Some cuttings do not take root well in one year, for example, some conifers and rhododendrons. In this case, I keep them in a stalk under a film for two years.
Cuttings can be planted not only in cuttings, but also in small pots of 1 - 3 pieces. I do this with plants that don't like to be transplanted, like microbiota, junipers, and a few others. I dig the pots into the soil of the cuttings. Planting in pots increases the time spent on planting, but if necessary, the cuttings are easy to transfer and then plant in a permanent place.
Features of cuttings of some plants
Hydrangeas
Most types of hydrangea are cuttings very well at any time, but for paniculata, it is important to correctly determine the timing of cuttings. As soon as balls form at the ends of annual shoots - the embryos of buds, it's time to start cuttings. In large-leaved hydrangea, last year's branches with one-year growths take root very well. I often propagate branches cut in October before shelter. I cut them into pieces that have last year's lignified area and a green one-year-old shoot extending from it, from which I remove the top (usually this is an inflorescence). I immediately plant such cuttings on a bed covered with peat, and almost the entire cutting, except for the top, is covered with peat, watered and covered with thick lutrasil directly on the ground. In the spring I don’t take off Lutrasil for a long time, until the hydrangeas take root, I water it if necessary. By August, young plants are already well rooted and even bloom from buds laid on the mother plant. They can be removed, but the carpet of flowering hydrangea cuttings is very beautiful, and I did not notice the negative effect of flowering on the growth of seedlings.
The peculiarity of summer hydrangea cuttings is that in the year of rooting they almost never give growth, and only the green color of the leaves speaks of good condition and rooting. By autumn, the leaves turn yellow and partially fall off, but do not dry out.
roses
The possibility of cuttings of roses is highly dependent on the group to which they belong, and even on the variety. Miniature roses, climbing ones, especially ramblers, many varieties of ground cover, hybrid tea and floribunda roses are cut very well. Varieties with yellow flowers take root worse and very badly - most varieties from the group of rugosa rose hybrids (wrinkled park roses).
Roses take root well last year's cuttings, which are easy to prepare when pruning roses in the fall. Such cuttings have to be stored until spring (for example, in sphagnum moss in the refrigerator or buried in the ground) or rooted indoors. The percentage of death of such cuttings during storage is quite high. But roses rooted in early spring grow well in summer, ripen and successfully winter. The semi-lignified shoots of the current year take root most easily during budding.
Long shoots with buds (one internode and two buds long) can be cut into cuttings, or smaller branches with several leaves and buds can be used as cuttings. It is better to root roses, and even more so to grow them, in lighter conditions. In the first year, shoots grow in roses, and it is advisable to pinch them when they reach 10 cm. Infection control and careful shelter for the winter are especially important for roses.
Clematis
Like roses, clematis root better in diffused light, and cuttings need to be protected from direct sunlight. When cutting with last year's lignified cuttings, they are cut with two pairs of buds and one internode without leaves, they are stored in winter in the same way as rose cuttings, but you can leave the lashes to winter on the mother plant or store whole lashes, and cut the cuttings in spring. The peculiarity of planting is that both pairs of buds must be buried in the soil, otherwise the growing young shoot may dry out. The cuttings are planted almost horizontally, so that the upper buds are at a depth of 1 cm, the lower 3 cm, and the upper ends of the cuttings stick out of the ground. Growing young shoots need to be pinched at a height of 10-15 cm. Such cuttings take root worse, but they winter better and give a well-developed young plant in one year.
Annual cuttings take root very easily. They need to be cut during budding. Only the middle part of the shoot goes to the cuttings. The lower part with simple leaves and the branched top with buds do not go to the cuttings. It is better to plant cuttings with one pair of leaves, and, accordingly, buds, leave 1-2 cm of the stem below, 2-3 cm on top, remove some of the leaf lobes and deepen the bud into the soil by 1 cm, so that the upper tip of the cutting and leaves stick out. It is important to protect clematis from fungal diseases.
coniferous plants
There are great differences in the possibility of rooting conifers of different species. Pine, fir, larch, prickly spruce and most varieties of common spruce practically do not take root. Yews, tueviki, thuja, juniper and cypress species take root very easily.
All conifers take root better in early spring in April - May, and easily rooted - throughout the summer. Some species and varieties, like rhododendrons, do not fully take root in one season, in the first year they form callus and rudiments of roots, and roots the next year. Such plants have to be kept in the cuttings for two years.
The size of the rooted cuttings can be different: the better the cuttings of a given species root, the larger they can be. In juniper, microbiota, nesting spruce, I root cuttings of 5-10 cm, and in yew and thuja up to 20-25 cm, which allows me to get quite large plants in one year. Cuttings with a heel take root better, but the bark should not lag behind the wood, the lagging piece of bark must be carefully cut off. From the bottom of the handle, you need to remove small twigs and needles (for species with needle needles).
When planting cuttings at an angle, it is important to keep their upper and lower surface, especially for species with flat branches, not to bury too much. Conifer cuttings more than others suffer from burns, overheating, and they need to be better shaded. They are also afraid of waterlogging, they often support. They should be watered moderately, closed only after drying, covered with spruce branches or lutrasil along the frame for the winter.
As well as shrubs and conifers, you can cut many herbaceous plants: phloxes, peonies, almost all ground cover plants.
Passion for cuttings of various plants allowed me, without material costs (all cuttings are made of auxiliary material, old film, fabric from old clothes), without wasting space (all cuttings are located under apple trees) to get several thousand new plants in recent years. At the same time, I significantly enriched the range of my plants, provided planting material not only for my friends and colleagues, but also for listeners of my lectures at the St. Petersburg Gardener's House.
An experienced Khabarovsk gardener, Lyudmila Saksina, cuts roses in August. To do this, she makes an original and cheap stalk from a plastic bottle.
The summer resident takes a five-liter bottle and cuts off the top of it at the place where the bevel begins. Cuts not to the end - on the one hand, the top remains connected to the bottom. It bends and starts to refuel.
At the bottom of the bottle puts 5 cm of drainage: small pebbles or expanded clay. Then he pours 5 cm of sand, then good nutritious soil with humus, and again as much sand on top as you need to deepen the cutting.
The cutting must be placed at an angle so that its lower end is on the surface of the nutrient layer, but does not go deep into it, but on top - in the sand. This is necessary so that when the roots come out of the lower kidney, they immediately find themselves in a nutrient medium. And the sand from above will tightly support the stalk and will not let it rot.
The stalk filled with cuttings of roses is watered from a watering can. Then Lyudmila Zakharovna covers the bottom of the bottle with the top - the one that was notched and bent to the side. He wraps the cut with tape so that excess air does not penetrate and does not dry the cuttings. He screws the cork and puts the cutting bottle in the shade, between the peony bushes. “And I don’t look in for two or three weeks,” the summer resident says.
In autumn, Lyudmila Saksina lowers the bottle with rooted roses into the basement, only unscrews the lid so that fresh air enters, otherwise they will become moldy.
During the winter, the leaves will fall off, but the bushes themselves will be alive and well. In the spring, the summer resident brings them into a warm room and puts them on a glazed balcony. The bottle is cut off. Roses quickly acquire young foliage. And with the onset of heat, they can be planted in the garden.
Such a cutting can also be used for growing other shrubs. This is also convenient because in one bottle you can draw a plant of the same species and variety. Glue a label with the name directly to the bottle with tape - you won’t confuse it anymore.
Another plus of such a cuttings was explained by Lyudmila Saksina herself:
“Our scientists concluded that the shorter the distance from the lid to the cuttings, the better they take root. And why? But because closer to the shelter there is more moisture that accumulates on the walls of the shelter. In my experience, it's about 20 cm from the lid."
How to cut rose cuttings
It is better to cut the cuttings before the flowering of the rose shoot, when the buds are just painted. Then rooting will be friendly. If you cut the cuttings later, the percentage of their rooting is reduced, and the rooting itself takes longer.
A shoot is cut from the bush, and then cuttings with three buds are cut from its middle part.
At the same time, an oblique cut is made under the lower kidney of the cutting (at an angle of 45 degrees), and a straight cut is made above the upper kidney.
The lower leaf of the cutting is removed completely, and the upper leaves are shortened to 1/3 of the surface.
The simplest and most effective way to propagate ornamental shrubs is cuttings. How to prepare cuttings, root them and prepare for planting in open ground we will tell in our article.
Terms of harvesting cuttings of ornamental shrubs
Reproduction of decorative bushes is carried out by green and lignified cuttings. For various types of bushes, favorable periods of grafting can be distinguished:
- for lilac and mock orange - flowering period (May);
- for barberry, buddley, hydrangea, cotoneaster and other deciduous species - a period of intensive growth of shoots and budding (June);
- for honeysuckle - the period of green fruits (June - early July);
- for conifers - a dormant period (late autumn - early spring) or after the end of active growth (July).
Procedure for harvesting cuttings
Suitable for cuttings are annual shoots from the mother bush, whose age is 3-5 years. Choose well-developed semi-lignified shoots with green bark, 7-8 mm thick (with a pencil). Too flexible and thin branches are rejected.
We check the green shoot for readiness for cuttings
You can check the readiness by the sound when breaking the branch. In honeysuckle and many deciduous shrubs, a characteristic crack is heard when a branch is broken. If it is not there, you should choose another branch or postpone harvesting cuttings for a week.
The middle and apical part of the shoot is cut into cuttings. Do this early in the morning or in cloudy weather, when the evaporation of moisture from the plants is minimal. The length of the cutting is 8-10 cm, and the number of buds on it depends on the internodes of the shoot:
- for short ones - 3-5 kidneys;
- for long ones - 2 kidneys.
Sections are made at a distance of 0.5 cm from the upper and lower kidneys with a sharp knife overhang with a sharp movement. The upper cut is even, with a minimum area for evaporation of moisture from the cutting. The lower one is at an acute angle, about 45º, from the side opposite from the kidney. In this case, the kidney remains on the side of the formed wedge. The leaves of the lower kidney are removed, and the upper one is cut in half. In large-leaved species of bushes, the upper leaves are shortened by 2/3.
Lignified cuttings are cut in autumn and immediately planted in the ground under cover, or lowered into the cellar until spring. Their survival rate is usually lower than that of summer (green).
Rooting cuttings
Planted cuttings for rooting in boxes or pots with sand-peat soil mixture (1: 1). If there is a greenhouse or greenhouse on the site, you can use them by pouring a five-centimeter layer of a mixture of peat and sand over the soil.
Cuttings of coniferous and other hard-to-take-on bushes (for example, magnolias) before planting must be soaked in water with the addition of a phytohormone: Kornevin or Heteroauxin, for 1-2 hours. Cuttings are planted obliquely (at an angle of 45º) at a distance of 5-10 cm, deepening by 1-3 cm.
The boxes are covered with film or glass and placed in a shady place (for example, under trees). If it is not possible to install boxes in a shaded area, the film or glass is whitewashed with a solution of lime or covered with burlap.
The air temperature of 22-25º and high humidity (80-85%) are considered optimal for the formation of roots on cuttings. Planting cuttings on hot days is sprayed several times a day, and the soil is constantly kept moist. When condensation forms, the film (glass) is slightly opened to ventilate the cuttings for 20-30 minutes a day.
It will take 2-3 weeks for the cuttings to root, after which lateral shoots grow from the buds. During this period, the duration of ventilation of the cuttings is increased. When the seedlings get stronger, the shelter is removed.
Planting seedlings from cuttings
Rooted cuttings are left to winter in boxes, additionally covered (with spruce branches, sawdust, burlap), and planted in a permanent place next spring. Saplings of some fast-growing frost-resistant bushes can be planted in the fall, providing them with a reliable winter shelter, but cuttings of conifers root for 2-3 years.
Observing the simple rules of grafting, it will not be difficult to grow strong seedlings of ornamental bushes on your own. At the same time, young plants will fully preserve the varietal qualities of mother bushes and save your budget on the purchase of expensive planting material.
In August, you can cut a lot. This is done very simply. Here is how the famous soil scientist and naturalist Pavel Trannua advises to do.
Now they are cutting plants that are easy to root when planted in the ground: black and red currants, gooseberries, sea buckthorn, willow, derain, spirea.
Cuttings should be immediately planted in a permanent place, without wasting time preparing the soil. The main thing is to choose a place accurately and plant 3-4 cuttings, so that later a good wide bush will form from 2-3 that have taken root. We plant so that only one kidney remains on the surface, then cover with a transparent cap or film.
It is curious that Pavel Trannua advises digging a hole around the cuttings after they take root well. True, it will turn out not quite a pit, but something like a hoop. There you can and should lay everything that is necessary for the future shrub for good development: compost, fertilizers and other ingredients in the right proportions.
Currant cuttings. In the first year, 2-3 shoots grow from the cuttings. Early in the spring of next year, the shoots are cut, leaving a length of 12-15 cm, and by the fall (in the second year after planting), the necessary seedlings are obtained for planting in a permanent place.
I got lucky this year. My friend and I visited the garden of Tatyana Pavlovna Shapoval (we will definitely write about this) and persuaded the hostess to present us with very pretty cuttings of the Japanese variegated mountaineer (Fallopia japonica "Variegata"). The bush at Tatyana Pavlovna is amazing, about waist-high, a little higher, the shoots are bright crimson, and the heart-shaped leaves are charmingly variegated.
So, Tatyana Pavlovna, advised to take cuttings of the second order for propagation, with almost green leaves. She broke them off with a heel and said to put them under a double cap in school.
Fallopia japonica "Variegata"
I'll tell you a little what kind of mountaineer this is. In North America, this East Asian is not favored, referred to as a malicious weed and exterminated. There is even a special program. Nothing threatens us in the Moscow region, because the shoots completely die off for the winter. To be guaranteed to keep it, it would even be necessary to cover it a little, but if the Japanese mountaineer grows in a quiet place, then this is not necessary. And how the highlander will behave in the southern regions of the country is unknown, so it might be better not to risk it. Or take a chance, but watch it carefully.
If it takes root well, I will definitely share it with those who need this bush through our "Announcement Board" (opens in September).
Green cuttings in August. Video lessons. Green cuttings are one of the most productive methods of vegetative propagation. In July - early August, when the plants are in the phase of active growth, the best time for green cuttings comes.
With the help of green cuttings, many trees and shrubs can be propagated, but it must be borne in mind that the rooting ability of cuttings depends on the type and variety of the plant. The method of propagation by green cuttings is based on the ability of stem cuttings to form adventitious roots, which is expressed to varying degrees in different plants. Evolutionarily younger herbaceous perennials and shrubs have the greatest ability to differentiate, and to a lesser extent, tree species, especially the most ancient conifers, although among them there are species with a high ability to root by green cuttings. Easily rooted are creepers (clematis, grapes, parthenocissus, actinidia, petiole hydrangea), many shrubs (mock oranges, lilacs, hydrangeas, privet, honeysuckle). For roses, it is advisable to use cuttings only for small-leaved groups, the main assortment of varietal roses grows better and overwinters on a rootstock.
Cuttings are cut 8-12 cm long with two or three internodes; plants with short internodes may have more. In a number of plants - roses, rhododendrons, hydrangeas, grapes, mock oranges, lilacs, cuttings with one axillary bud, called leaf-buds, take root well. Such cuttings make it possible to obtain a large amount of planting material of valuable species and varieties in the presence of a small amount of material for cuttings. When cutting in optimal timing it is better to use the middle and lower, in the later stages - the upper part of the shoot. Cutting is done on a hard board with a very sharp tool - a grafting knife or blade that does not squeeze the tissue. The lower cut is made oblique to increase the suction surface, 1 cm below the kidney, the upper one is straight, directly above the kidney.
In large-leaved plants (for example, lilac, viburnum, vesicle), to reduce the evaporation area, leaf blades are cut by ½ or 1/3, but in hard-to-root, as well as variegated, yellow-leaved, purple forms with a low chlorophyll content, this technique must be used carefully, since assimilation may not be sufficient to ensure root formation. It would be good to truncate the leaf blades even before cutting the cuttings, this will also reduce moisture loss. The cuttings are sprayed with water and placed before planting under a non-woven covering material to prevent them from wilting.
Finished cuttings are planted in pre-prepared breeding ridges, which are arranged in the shade (in most cases, the optimal illumination for successful rooting is 50-70%). The cuttings are planted at a distance of 5-7 cm from each other to a depth of 1.5-2 cm. From above, the ridge is covered with glass, plastic wrap or non-woven covering material along arcs at a height of 25 cm from the cuttings. Each of these materials has its drawbacks - in the heat, under polyethylene and glass, the temperature can rise too much, and it is more difficult to maintain high humidity under a non-woven covering material. For most trees and shrubs, the optimum temperature is + 20 ... + 26 degrees and humidity 80-90%. The cuttings rooted in the cuttings are left in the ground, covered with a dry leaf for the winter, or dug up and stored in the refrigerator or dug in the basement, at a temperature of +1 ... +2 degrees. In the spring, the cuttings are transplanted into the "school" for 2-3 years for growing, then transplanted to a permanent place.