​Similar articles​

A little about tulips

Before planting, inspect the bulbs very carefully. Their skin should be clean, without stains, and the bulb itself should be hard and heavy. Peel the suspicious ones and, if there are spots on the white surface, destroy the onion. For prevention, treat healthy bulbs with 0.2% foundationazole for 30 minutes, dry and plant.

Classification of tulips

Have you ever seen large, healthy tulips in amateur gardens? Probably very, very rare. Although everyone loves these joyful and bright first spring flowers. People enthusiastically purchase bulbs and plant them in their gardens in the hope that now they will definitely admire the luxurious flowers every spring. Indeed, tulips differ from other bulbs, such as daffodils and hyacinths, in that they thrive in central Russia. But over the years, and sometimes already the next year after planting, the bulbs become smaller and then disappear altogether. Surely this has happened to you too. There are many reasons for this. Let's try to understand the most common mistakes in growing tulips.​

Tulip bulbs

Why are tulips best planted in autumn?

​The problem is the same, next year I’ll start feeding

Which variety to choose for planting

​Store planting material in paper bags in a cool, dark place. You can simply bring them into the cellar or basement. In the fall, they are planted in the beds using the method described above.​

Planting tulips in the garden. Where to plant?

​So, how to plant tulips? First of all, you should properly prepare the soil for them. In the garden, tulips are usually grown in the same place for a very long time. These flowers are quite unpretentious, so even in this case they will delight you with abundant blooms every year. They like neutral soil. Even if it is sour in your area, you can still grow beautiful tulips. You just need to neutralize the soil with regular liming.​

​In the spring, immediately after the snow melts, tulips - unusually elegant flowers - begin to sprout in vegetable gardens and gardens. In addition to its beauty, this wonderful plant has one more advantage - ease of cultivation. In order to get a flowerbed with red, yellow, white or variegated flowers in a suburban area, it is not necessary to waste too much time and put in a lot of effort. However, certain rules for growing this plant still exist. Let's take a closer look at how to plant tulips and how to care for them.​

Soil preparation

​To get large flowers, extra bulbs with a diameter of more than 4 cm and 1st parsing, with a diameter of 3.6-4 cm, are usually planted for the class Darwin Hybrids, for other classes, including Liliaceae, Terryaceae, Fringedaceae, Parrotaceae, Bulbs are smaller by nature.​

​You should IMMEDIATELY exclude such a gross violation of technology as non-annual digging of bulbs. To better understand what’s going on here, let’s take a brief look at the morphology and biology of this plant. You purchase bulbs in August - September. By this time, the flower bud in the large bulb is already fully formed. It is located in the center of the bulb at the top of the bottom. It is densely surrounded by 4-5 juicy, white scales, also sitting on the bottom. The structure of the onion will be clearly visible if you cut it in half lengthwise. But it’s usually a pity to destroy a tulip, so do the same with a regular onion bulb - their structure is similar.​

Preparing the bed

​The temperature regime is of utmost importance at the first stage of forcing (when storing bulbs). By changing the temperature in one direction or another, you can control the development of tulips and, to some extent, the timing of their flowering. The temperature effect on the bulbs during their storage consists of two stages: the first is exposure to high temperatures, the second is low.​

Where to get planting material

​blind​

When exactly should bulbs be planted in the fall?

Faded tulip bulbs continue to be watered moderately for some time. After the leaves have completely withered and dried out, the bulbs need to be removed and cleaned from the ground. Tulip bulbs are not suitable for secondary forcing.​

Planting bulbs in the garden

Cool tulip bulbs

​before planting in pots, in​

Mulching the soil

​It's too late now. And the next year - with the most common urea after the sprouts appear.​

How to plant tulips in spring

Next, let's look at how to plant tulips in a pot. It’s better to use a bowl or container for them, not a pot. This way they will look more aesthetically pleasing. When growing indoors, as well as in the garden, it is important for tulips to have good drainage.​

How to care for tulips in the garden

The soil doesn't have to be very nutritious. It is important that it is loose. Sandy soils are best suited for growing tulips. Be sure to provide good drainage. The approximate composition of the soil should be as follows: turf soil, sand, humus in the proportion 1 * 1 * 1. If the soil on your site is heavy, you should definitely add peat and sand to it.​

​Tulip - perennial herbaceous bulbous plant with a fairly wide distribution area. It is believed that these flowers were first grown in Holland. However, this is not at all true. The first tulips were grown in the gardens of Persia. Their name speaks about this. Agree that the word “tulip” is very similar to the word “turban”. The flower bud really resembles this oriental headdress. Before we start figuring out how to plant tulips, let’s figure out what types of tulips exist and how to choose the right variety in a given case.​

Do I need to dig up tulip bulbs for the winter?

​Onion​

How to plant tulips in pots

​The storage regime for bulbs prepared for forcing differs slightly from the storage regime for bulbs that will be planted in open ground. The storage regime differs significantly only for those bulbs that are intended for early and late forcing.​

​). Most likely, the varieties were poorly chosen for certain periods of forcing or the timing of digging the bulbs was violated. Also, this problem can arise if the cooling time of the bulbs is not met, or the temperature conditions for storage and rooting are not observed. High temperatures during forcing can also cause the formation of blind buds. This can also happen if there were fruits, vegetables or cut flowers in the room where the tulip bulbs were stored and rooted.​

​To get tulip flowers for a specific holiday, the most important thing is to calculate the timing of the work. For​

syl.ru

Why do Tulips have short legs? How can you help, feed them?

LYUDMILA FILATOVA

​about​

Anna _

​at home​

Ekaterina Bender

​Maybe they are still cold, mine also sit on a short stem, although I have partial shade there, so they bloom later.​

irina kirina

​Make several holes in the bottom of the bowl and place broken shards or small crushed stones in it. Sprinkle loose soil on top. You can use the same mixture as in the garden bed - sand, soil, humus in the proportion 1*1*1. The bulbs are carefully placed on the ground quite tightly, but with such frequency that they do not touch each other. They should be sprinkled with earth in such a way that the tops are not visible on the surface.

Yuli

​Let's see how to properly plant tulips in the fall. Of course, you should carefully prepare the bed for them. The soil in the garden bed should be thoroughly dug up and loosened (about 5 cm deep). If there are a lot of weeds growing in the selected area, it is better to plant tulips in holes or furrows. Of course, you should try to remove all the roots of weeds. The width and length of the bed can be any.​

Pasha Khirovy

All tulips are divided into two large groups:

marina

​Caring for plantings is also important, although if the land is well prepared it is insignificant. If the autumn is dry, then the plantings must be watered, so that the moisture saturates the ground to a root depth of 35 cm. Then they mulch with a 3 cm layer of weathered peat. In mid-October, 15 g of ammonium nitrate per 1 m2 is added for better root growth. With the onset of frost, they are covered with spruce branches - from mice and in case of a winter with little snow. In the fall, the bulbs not only take root, but also form a sprout that almost reaches the surface of the earth. This is why tulip tubes appear so early in the spring, almost right out of the snow. In harsh winters, the flower bud may be damaged.​

Elena Kurilova

The outside of the tulip bulb is covered with dense brown scales. And under it there are succulent scales containing a supply of nutrients sufficient to expel the stem with leaves and bloom. This is the basis for forcing (obtaining flowers) of bulbous plants in winter and spring. The tulip bulb is annual, although the plant itself is considered a perennial. The fact is that between the scales of the bulb there are buds, which develop during stem growth and flowering and by the end of the growing season turn into new bulbs, in the amount of 1-5 pieces. They sit in the nest, covered with the shell of a completely depleted maternal bulb. The largest of these new bulbs is called replacement, and the other smaller ones are called bulbs of the second or third sort, and even smaller ones are called children.

Hilarion

​After digging the bulbs, which is carried out in the usual time for tulips, they are stored at a temperature of 20-23 ° C for a month. This temperature is considered optimal for the formation of flower primordia in the bulb. Then, for a month (August), the temperature is maintained at about 20 C, and in September it drops to 16-17 ° C. Such storage temperatures approximately correspond to the average temperatures in these months, so during storage no special equipment is required to maintain the specified regime in the storage. Minor deviations from the indicated temperatures do not have a significant effect on plants. However, with significant temperature deviations in any direction, the process of laying flower primordia in the bulb slows down or anomalies appear in the form of “blind” buds.​

Tatyana Savchenko SIBERIA

​3. Tulips have flower stalks, but above the upper leaves they seem to be compressed, the flowers droop, and watery spots are visible. This most likely occurred due to a lack of calcium in the substrate when forcing tulip bulbs. The same signs occur when forcing tulips in acidic peat, especially at high temperatures.​

Ksenia Kalita

​forcing tulips for the New Year

Winter forcing of tulips for March 8, New Year. Forcing tulips, choosing and storing bulbs, planting, cooling period - rasteniya.dp.ua

Winter forcing of tulips

​1.5-2 months​​, stored in the refrigerator in gauze bags, on a glassed-in loggia or where the temperature is maintained at 5-9°C.​ Tulips - flowering bulbous plants​You now know how to properly plant tulips in autumn, spring and in pots. As you can see, this matter is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. Tulip bulbs can be purchased at a specialized store. If you already have tulips in your garden, you can take planting material from the garden bed. The daughter bulbs should be dug up after the flowers have completely faded and the foliage has turned yellow. This usually happens at the end of June, beginning of July. Tulips are a very productive plant. Therefore, you will probably have enough bulbs for your new flowerbed. For the same reason, you should not buy too much planting material in the store. Moreover, it is usually not cheap.​ ​With stable coloring.​

Forcing tulips - choosing and storing bulbs

​In the spring, the spruce branches are removed and the plantings are immediately fed with ammonium nitrate in the same dose as in the fall. After 10 days, they are fed again with the same saltpeter with the addition of potassium sulfate - 20 g, and after another two weeks - with potassium sulfate alone, also 20 g per 1 m2. Tulips are also given 3-4 deep waterings, and watered until the above-ground parts begin to turn yellow, approximately two weeks after the end of flowering. It is at this time that new bulbs continue to grow. Faded flowers must be plucked off. This technique is called decapitation. For a bouquet, tulips are cut with one or two leaves, otherwise good bulbs It won’t work.​ ​Nest​

The difficulty of forcing for the New Year is that by the time the bulbs begin to cool, all parts of the future flower must be fully formed. In the middle zone, the flower buds are fully formed by mid-August, and in cool and rainy summers this period may be delayed by another month.​ ​4.​ ​You need to put the bulbs in the refrigerator around September 3; November 12 - plant in the substrate and cool again, December 3 - transfer to the windowsill. During this time, long shoots usually appear. If you extend the period of keeping them in the cold, the tulips in the room can become very elongated. Before planting in pots, you need to remove the covering scales from the bulbs. This way the tulip bulbs will take root much faster, and you will be sure that they are not affected by any diseases inside.

Forcing tulips - planting

​with single colorful flowers and broadly lanceolate leaves.​

​Firstly, it depends on the variety of tulips, there are border tulips, their legs are short, and if your tulips are ordinary, then feed them with Kemira universal complex fertilizer, take spring-summer.​ ​In autumn, planting bulbs in the ground is carried out at the end of September. Sometimes tulips are planted in early November. This is necessary so that by the time the first frost occurs they have time to take root well. It is important not to miss the planting deadline. Otherwise, the roots will not have time to grow stronger, and the planting material will die.​ ​These flowers can be single-color, two-color or mixed.​​Dig up the bulbs at the moment the above-ground parts turn yellow, without waiting for complete drying. Otherwise, the nest will crumble and some of the bulbs will remain in the ground. These bulbs will go deeper into the ground every year, making it difficult to dig them out. The dug up bulbs are dried under a shed or in a shed for 3-4 days, then cleaned and stored in a well-ventilated area (for example, in an attic) at a temperature of 20 C until mid-August, and then at 17 C until planting, constantly monitoring their condition. If the nest of new bulbs remains in the ground, then they will lack everything - food, water, air. This is the same as unthinned seedlings of other crops - they will never grow into full-fledged plants. But in the tulip all this is exaggerated. I’ll explain why.​ ​To speed up the formation of all flower organs and begin cooling the bulbs at the scheduled time, there are two methods: agrotechnical and physical-chemical. The agrotechnical method is that tulips are grown under a film and the flowers are decapitated. This method allows you to speed up the process of laying all the organs of the future flower by 2-3 weeks. The second method is to dig up the bulbs early. The bulbs are dug up as soon as yellowish spots appear on their covering scales. Then the bulbs are kept for a week at a temperature of +34 °C. This temperature also helps to accelerate the process of laying the organs of the future flower in the bulb.​

Tulips are blooming, but the flower stalks are elongated, thin, weak

Forcing tulips - cooling period

​Forcing tulips​ Tulip bulbs ​Winter forcing of tulips​​they lack nitrogen, little light and water​

​So, how to plant tulips in the fall? If the soil is soft, the depth of planting the bulbs should be three times their height. In heavy soils, planting material is buried to two bulb heights. In this case, the flowers will germinate quickly in the spring and will not freeze in the winter. The distance between plants should be sufficient to ensure that they all have enough sunlight. Planting material is planted in increments of approximately two bulb diameters - this is if it is at least 8 cm. Smaller bulbs are planted more often. ​L. KITAEV​​Tulip is an ephemeroid with a very short growing season. After all, we plant the bulbs at the end of September, in October they take root (the roots grow up to 20 cm), bloom in May, and in June their above-ground part has already dried up. And during these four months, the bulb must take root in such a way as to withstand winter frosts, form a stem with leaves and a flower or flowers in the spring, and also produce a whole nest of new bulbs, moreover, replacing good conditions It is not inferior in size to the mother bulb, and often exceeds it. Now we can conclude that by leaving the tulips undug, it will no longer be possible to restore their original qualities.​

Bulbs prepared in this way are stored in the lower section of a regular home refrigerator from mid-August until planting. The purpose of such preparation is to delay the development of leaf primordia in the bulb and thereby enable the primordia of flower organs to form in it more quickly.

Station for forcing

​. This usually happens if the air temperature in the room where the tulips are being forced is too high, above +20°C, and there is insufficient lighting.​ ​forcing tulips on March 8th​​Different varieties require different cooling periods -​

​planted in flower pots​

Forcing tulips for March 8, New Year, or another holiday

​gives them the opportunity to spend some time as indoor plants.​ ​this kind The surface of the bed should be as smooth as possible. The presence of any pits on its surface is not allowed. The fact is that in the spring melt water will definitely begin to accumulate in them. And this can lead to damping off of the bulbs.

These are flaming, feather-shaped and striped tulips. A very interesting fact is that this coloration is caused by nothing more than a virus.​ ​Message series "Growing Flowers 2":​​Excavation​

Forcing tulips - failures and mistakes

​The substrate for planting bulbs can be any moisture-absorbing and breathable material with a neutral reaction. This can be pure river sand (Dutch gardeners use it), a mixture of sand and peat, pure peat, vermiculite, perlite or a mixture of sand and garden soil. You can even use sawdust as a substrate for forcing, but they do not retain moisture well, so frequent watering will be required during the rooting period. In addition, the substrate for forcing must have a neutral reaction (pH - 6.5-7), so sawdust and peat must be limed. It is also not advisable to use garden soil in its pure form, without any loosening agents, since it becomes very compacted when watered. The optimal substrate for forcing is the following composition: 2 parts garden soil, 1 part well-rotted manure or compost and 1 part river sand. It is useful to add wood ash to this mixture. It is better not to use soil from greenhouses, greenhouses, as well as poorly rotted manure - this is a favorable environment for the development of pathogens. The prepared substrate is poured 2/3 into containers (pots, boxes, bowls) and lightly compacted. The bulbs are laid out on the surface of the soil at a distance of 0.5-1 cm from each other, while slightly pressing their bottoms into the soil. Then the bulbs are covered to the very top with prepared substrate or clean sand to the edges of the container. It is important that homogeneous planting material is planted in one container to ensure its simultaneous flowering. After planting, the bulbs are watered generously. It is advisable to water them with a solution of 0.2% calcium nitrate (20 g per 10 liters of water). If after watering the tops of the bulbs are exposed and the soil has settled, the substrate must be replenished. It is important that there is a small layer of soil above the bulbs, otherwise when they take root, the bulbs may bulge out of the ground. After this, the containers with the bulbs are transferred to a basement, cellar or other room with a temperature of 0 to 10 ° C (the optimal temperature is 5-9 ° C). Until mid-December, the bulbs need to be watered weekly and the air humidity in the room should be maintained at least 75-80%. Rooting and germination of tulips, depending on the variety, lasts from 16 to 22 weeks. By the end of December, the temperature in the room where the bulbs are stored is reduced to +2-4 °C and maintained. Such a decrease in temperature will prevent the tulips from stretching out their sprouts.​ ​During forcing, tulip bulbs bloom only due to their internal reserves, which are depleted. Such tulip bulbs will not bloom again soon. But if it’s a shame to throw them away, you can cut off the flower stalk of faded plants and, continuing to water moderately, wait until the leaves turn yellow. Then the tulip bulbs need to be dug up, kept at a temperature of 24°C for a couple of weeks, then a month at 17-20°C and at a temperature of 14-15°C before planting in open ground. This mode will allow you to preserve tulip bulbs until planting. Tulip bulbs can be planted in open ground in September-October.

​: October 25 - in the refrigerator; January 25 - into the ground and back into the refrigerator; February 15 - on the windowsill.​ ​from 16 to 22 weeks​​in September - October​ ​Tulips in winter​​And somehow this year everyone has the same “disease”.​

The soil in the garden bed with planted tulips should definitely be covered with something in winter. Cover the soil with a thick layer of manure or peat. You can also use straw or fallen leaves. Try to protect the bulbs from frost as best as possible. Otherwise they may freeze. If you use straw for mulching, it will need to be removed in early spring. Since it has a light shade, its layer will reflect the sun's rays and interfere with the soil warming up.​

In addition, tulips are classified into garden and hybrid. The former usually bloom in April-May, the latter in March-May. There are varieties specially bred both for planting in the garden and for growing indoors. Next, we’ll look at how to properly plant tulips of both varieties.​ ​Part 1 - Gladioli. Unconventional planting method​In addition to annual digging, tulips, for the same reasons, require extensive preparation of the planting site. The plant must have enough nutrition to go through such a rapid cycle of development and growth. Along with the quality of planting material, it is the preparation of the land that will determine the success of the crop. The site should be selected on a warm slope or flat surface, in the sun or in light partial shade (diffused shade of trees), groundwater should not be closer than 60 cm from the surface. Tulips love medium- or light-loamy soil, with a neutral reaction, very high fertility and cultivated to a depth of at least 35 cm. In Holland - the legislator of bulbous crops - up to 50 kg of manure per 1 m2 is applied to tulips before they are planted, under their predecessor. This dose is recommended for lean lands, and on average 25 kg of organic fertilizers are required. It is not recommended to plant tulips on heavy, clayey soils and damp places.​

What to do with the bulbs after forcing

As a rule, tulips are transferred to a heated room for forcing 3 weeks before flowering. But it should be taken into account - the earlier the forcing is carried out, the more time should pass from the moment the tulips are transferred from a cold room to a warm one, and vice versa. Usually, by the time the plants are transferred to a warm room, tulip sprouts reach a height of 5-8 cm. Containers with rooted bulbs are transferred to a room with a temperature of 12-15 ° C, while the lighting in the first 3-4 days should be weak. If the tulip sprouts have not grown enough, they are covered with dark paper caps, which are regularly removed and the plants are ventilated. After 3-4 days, the temperature is raised to 16-18 °C and full illumination is provided, while it is advisable to additionally illuminate the plants for 3-5 hours a day, and if there is a lack of sun, this is simply necessary, otherwise the tulips will stretch out greatly. When the tulip buds color, the temperature is slightly reduced (to 14-15 ° C), which will extend the flowering period of the plants, the flower stalks will be stronger, and the flowers will be more brightly colored. The plants are watered daily and fertilized with calcium nitrate from time to time. Fertilizing has a positive effect on the decorative appearance of tulips and increases the number of flowers. It is advisable not to keep containers with flowering plants in the sun, as this shortens the duration of flowering.​

rasteniya.dp.ua

Forcing tulips at home

​Spring flowers on the window, when winter is raging behind the glass, are perceived as real magic. But this is the case when everyone can become a wizard if they stock up on everything they need in advance and do some simple preparatory work. Low-growing tulips (T. Kaufmann, T. Greig) are good for forcing at home.

​1. Tulip bulbs

​. For example, Triumph class tulips require a cooling period from 16 to 19, Darwin hybrid tulips - from 19 to 22 weeks, but the Christmas Marvel variety, Simple Early, has a cooling period of 13 weeks. This means that Christmas Marvel tulip bulbs can be harvested even for the New Year.​

Selection of varieties for forcing

​. They are planted in pots quite tightly, but so that they do not touch each other.

Preparing bulbs for forcing

​very effective in glazed or plain clay pots. Their blooming flowers again and again delight their caring owners.​

​Hmm... one thing I know for sure... PEOPLE WITH POTATO MINDS DO EXIST!!! =))​

​We found out how to plant tulips in the fall. What to do if you are late with the landing date? There is no need to despair. Although it is not advisable, you can plant tulips in the spring. In this case, the beds are prepared in the same way as in the fall. Planting is carried out according to the same scheme. However, you should be aware that your tulips planted in spring will bloom only next season.​

​Although this is not a mandatory rule, experts still recommend planting tulips in the fall, and not in the spring, like most other flowers. The fact is that how well the bulbs feel in the soil is directly related to its temperature. Tulips are planted in soil heated to approximately +9. It is at this temperature that the flower itself begins to develop in the bulb. It germinates in the spring. Therefore, in this article we will mostly talk about how to plant tulips in the fall.​

​Part 2 - Placing tulips in the garden​

The land is prepared in the spring of the year of planting or in the fall of the previous year. In addition to organic fertilizers (this can also be humus or compost), lime is added - 200-400 g and simple superphosphate - 100 g per 1 m2. Double digging is used, with half of the fertilizers and all the superphosphate mixed with the bottom layer of soil, and the other half with the top. Sand is added to heavy soils - up to 20 kg per 1 m2. In summer, the plot can be occupied with annual flowers or green vegetables, but it must be emptied a month before planting, at the end of August. Dig up, first scattering potassium magnesium - 100 g per 1 m2.​

​There is an opinion among flower growers that the bulbs used for forcing are not suitable for further cultivation and are easier to throw away. But if desired, they can be grown. When forcing low-growing varieties of tulips (with short peduncles), the flowers are usually cut off from the plants without leaving leaves on the bulb. In this case, 3 weeks after cutting the bulbs are dug up. If, after cutting the flowers, leaves were left on the bulb (when growing varieties with long peduncles, for example, from the Darwin hybrids class), then they continue to be watered and kept in maximum light until the leaves turn yellow. In this case, from some varieties you can get quite large replacement bulbs and large babies.​

Planting and rooting bulbs

Bulbous plants in a dormant state form the organs of future plants in the bulbs. Under the influence of certain factors, plants come out of dormancy and bloom at unusual times. Technologies developed by specialists allow you to receive flowers on schedule; By adjusting the temperature, you can speed up or slow down flowering. Bringing a plant out of dormancy and ensuring its growth and flowering using special techniques is called forcing. There is early forcing, for the New Year, mid-early, in January-February, and late, in March-April.​

Forcing mode

​, at the time of planting for forcing, only one leaf has formed, the peduncle is missing. This means that non-round, small, young or light bulbs were selected for forcing tulips, in which the flower bud was underdeveloped or absent.​

Growing bulbs after forcing

But, since it is not always possible to obtain the necessary information about the bulbs in a timely manner, in order not to be left without tulips by March 8, New Year, Birthday or other holiday, it is better to use three or four different varieties for forcing.

​Pots for forcing tulips​

​Forcing tulips,​

FlowersBel.ru

Why are tulips getting smaller?

​Yeah, we also have a bunch of tulips at our dacha on a short stalk. They will bloom soon anyway, so only next year we will better prepare the soil for them.​

​We found out how to plant tulips before winter and spring. Now let's figure out how to care for them. These wonderful flowers require minimal attention. However, of course, you will need to care for them during the season. In the spring, as soon as the tulips hatch, you should thoroughly loosen the soil in the garden bed. Water tulips as needed. Care should be taken to ensure that the soil under the plants does not dry out. Also, do not over-water it. Otherwise, the bulbs may begin to rot.​

​For planting in open ground gardens, the Darwin varieties and various kinds of Liliaceae hybrids are most suitable. These are quite tall plants. At home, in pots, low-growing varieties are grown - simple early, double T. Hybrida, T. Kaufmanniana, etc. However, most varieties of tulips are universal and can grow both in pots and in open ground. It is important not only to know how to plant tulip bulbs, but also where exactly it is best to plant them.​

​Part 3 - How to plant and store gladioli​

​The best time to plant tulips in central Russia is from September 20 to 30. It is important to maintain the planting depth - there are two more heights of the bulb above the bulb. For large ones it will be 10-12 cm from the bottom. And the distance between the bulbs is at least twice their diameter - 7-8 cm. Small bulbs and children are planted smaller and denser. Sand is poured under the bottom in a layer of 3 cm, and the onion is also covered with it, so that there are fewer fungal diseases.

​After digging, the bulbs are dried for 2 weeks at a temperature of 24 °C, then a month at 17-20 °C and then before planting in the ground - at a temperature of 14-15 °C. This storage mode allows you to keep the bulbs in normal condition before planting (they do not dry out and do not begin to grow prematurely).​

​The entire cycle of forcing work can be divided into three stages: 1. Storage of the bulbs after digging them out of the open ground. 2. Rooting (at low temperatures). 3. The actual forcing (growing tulips in a heated room until flowering).​

​Transferring a flower pot with tulip bulbs from the refrigerator to the windowsill has its own name - forcing.​

You need to select 11 cm in diameter and plant 3 bulbs in them. Then completely cover the bulbs with soil, water and, if the soil settles, add more. The height of the substrate must be at least 15 cm.​

​involves the use of only specially grown bulbs, which are stored immediately after digging in compliance with the temperature regime.​
Fertilize your tulips with any regular complex fertilizer, but keep in mind that there are special varieties - low ones.

In order to get abundant flowering, tulips should also be fertilized. These plants respond very well to organic matter. Therefore, in order to saturate the soil with nutrients, manure should be used. Of course, you can only take well-rotted ones. During the season, tulips should be weeded periodically.​

Most often, tulips are planted in flower beds in fairly sunny places. Very often, these wonderful flowers are grown on alpine hills in containers. Medium-height and tall tulips are best grown in places well protected from the wind. The former are usually used as decoration for the site itself. The latter are grown for bouquets for cutting.​
​Part 4 - Why hazel grouse don’t bloom.​

​Landing​

After forcing, the bulbs are planted in open ground at the usual time for tulips. It is not advisable to grow bulbs used for early forcing, since they do not form large replacement bulbs and produce few large children. Such bulbs need to be grown for more than one year before they bloom.

​For forcing for the New Year, only those varieties can be used whose cooling period lasts at least 16 weeks, that is, early flowering ones. Most forcing varieties are suitable for forcing in the middle months (February-March). For forcing by April, you can use any forcing varieties.​

Tulips have formed pale, straw-colored buds

​Caring for tulips​
​For forcing tulip bulbs, a breathable and moisture-absorbing substrate with a neutral reaction is suitable, for example, a mixture of sand and garden soil, pure peat, a mixture of sand and peat, vermiculite.​
​Heavy dense​
Tulips need to be fed with nitrogen, maybe Kemira, or complex fertilizer. But usually in the spring, nitrogen is first added, and when the buds appear, phosphorus and potassium are added to the nitrogen, and the height of the flower also depends on the variety. In addition, the flower stem stretches
According to the rules, you need to dig up tulip bulbs for the winter. However, many experienced gardeners do not do this every year. In the first year after the start of cultivation, if you need additional planting material for breeding some variety, you will, of course, have to dig up the bulbs. Then you can dig them up after a year. If you don’t do this, it will be impossible to get large, showy buds. Dig up tulip bulbs for storage after the leaves turn yellow. Next, they should be dried and sorted by grade and size. Large daughter bulbs are usually used for planting next year.​
​The question of how to plant tulips (and daffodils, too, by the way) comes down to how to properly design the flowerbed. It is best to plant some flowers that bloom later than them in front of the strip of tulips used as decoration for the site. The fact is that after flowering they do not look very attractive. Even the rather pretty wide leaves begin to turn yellow already in mid-summer. In the first row in front of the tulips you can plant marigolds, salvia or petunias. The flowering time of these plants falls exactly at the period when the tulips fade. Why does the apple tree dry out?

Very often, in the process of growing tulips, questions and doubts arise. We tried to give answers to some of them. For example: “Why are tulip buds “blind”? Why do flowers become smaller? What are the causes of diseases? How to fertilize correctly?

Why are the buds “blind”?

If the tulip buds turn out to be “blind” - pale, yellowish, or have not opened at all and fallen off, there may be many reasons. Most likely, you chose the wrong one or at the wrong time. For example, the bulbs were dug up late and put into forcing early, and vice versa.

The formation of “blind” buds is also promoted by too high a temperature during forcing. Or maybe you did not observe the temperature regime for storing and rooting the bulbs, or did not maintain the cooling time. Another reason may be that there were cut flowers, fruits or vegetables near the place where the tulips were stored and rooted.

If tulips have flower stalks, but they are squeezed by the upper leaves, and the flowers are drooping and watery spots are visible throughout the plant, it means that there was not enough calcium in the soil when growing the bulbs, or you used acidic peat for forcing, and even at a high temperature.

What diseases do tulips have and what are their causes?

If the bulb is covered with a coating similar to limescale, then this is lime disease. The reason for its occurrence is incomplete ripening of the bulbs and improper storage and drying conditions.

If small glassy spots appear on the bulbs, which then acquire a bluish tint (blueness of the bulbs), then it means that in April-May they received too much light.

The bulbs secrete a yellowish, sticky liquid - this gommosis, arising from an excess of moisture in the soil at the end of the growing season.

Excessive moisture at the end of the growing season and exposure to direct sunlight during digging lead to tulip bulb tumors– brown growths on the outer scales.

If during storage it was very humid and the air stagnated, a brown crust and wrinkles appear on the bulbs - this is cortical disease.

If the tulip bulbs, suspended for forcing, produced only one leaf, and the peduncle did not appear at all, it means that you selected for forcing too small, or young, or light and non-round bulbs that flower bud either there was none at all, or it was underdeveloped.

If tulips bloom, but on weak, thin, elongated peduncles, it means that the air temperature in the room where the flowers are being forced is too high. Check, it's probably above +20°C on sunny days, and it's also too warm at night. Maybe the plants don't have enough light.

Why are tulips getting smaller?

Once upon a time the flower garden delighted you with huge flaming tulips, but now only small flowers grow? This means you are inattentive to them and, apparently, pay attention to these beauties only during their flowering.

In vain Tulips need to be taken care of constantly. Find out what is causing the shrinkage - improper care, viral diseases, your forgetfulness or carelessness?

Most often, tulips become smaller because they are haven't dug up for several years. After all, there are more and more bulbs in the ground, they lack nutrition, and the flowers begin to degenerate.

Tulips become smaller when struck by certain viral or fungal diseases; this also leads to poor drying and improper storage, digging too early or too late.

It also needs to be applied on time, at the correct depth, in moist, mulched soil. Then in this case they will have both large flowers and fairly developed replacement bulbs.

And lastly, do not cut the tulip too low; leave the stem for the bulb to develop leaves. When planting bulbs, carefully inspect the tubers and take into account their age.

How and when to fertilize tulips?

After planting tulips, the rows are mulched with well-weathered peat, humus or peat compost with a layer of 4 - 5 cm. If in the fall after planting the rains do not fall and the soil has time to dry out, watering is carried out. 7 – 10 days after planting When the roots begin to grow intensively, the plants are fed with nitrogen-potassium fertilizers at the rate of 15 - 20 g of ammonium nitrate and potassium sulfate per 1 m². As with , potassium fertilizers containing chlorine are not applied to tulips.

10 – 15 days after the first feeding give a second nitrogen-potassium fertilizing in the same doses, which promotes the development of a powerful root system, which, immediately after the snow melts, is able to supply the plants well with nutrients and water.

If there is insufficient mulching, it is better to cover the beds with tulips with straw, dry twigs, and spruce branches. When using fallen leaves as mulch, you have difficulty removing them in the spring, since even before the snow melts, tulip sprouts penetrate through the leaves. The cover made of straw, twigs, spruce branches can be easily removed using a pitchfork. Under such an insulating shelter, a uniform temperature is maintained during the autumn-winter period, the flowering shoot and flower are not damaged, even in frosty winters, and flowering, as a rule, is most luxuriant. The insulating cover is removed in the spring after the snow melts. The mulching layer of peat, humus, and peat compost is not touched.

After the snow melts on moist soil they give nitrogen fertilizing with ammonium nitrate, in a few days– fertilizing with complete mineral fertilizer at the rate of 20 g of ammonium nitrate, 15 g of potassium sulfate and 10 g of superphosphate per 1 m². Fertilizers are applied during the cultivation of plantings. Third and fourth feedings give only if it is possible to add them in dissolved form. Intervals between feedings 7 – 8 days. 7–9 g of ammonium nitrate, 20–25 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium sulfate are added per square meter. At this time, it is better to use highly soluble and readily available forms of fertilizer. Fertilizers are applied to sufficiently moist soil. If there is a lack of moisture, tulip plantings are watered before fertilizing. If watering cannot be provided, fertilizing is abandoned.

Growing tulips requires constant attention: from planting in the fall to digging up the bulbs after flowering and growing, and their subsequent storage. By doing all this and taking our advice into account, you will get beautiful flower beds of blooming tulips that will undoubtedly become your pride.

Tulips, like other crops, can be affected by diseases and pests. Diseases and insects can not only worsen appearance plants, but also lead to their death. To prevent this from happening, you need to learn to identify symptoms in time and know the basic methods of treating pathologies.

Using descriptions, photos and videos from our article, you will learn to recognize tulip diseases and learn about methods of their treatment and prevention.

Tulip diseases and their treatment

Despite the early appearance of sprouts and ease of care, tulips can be affected by a wide variety of diseases. The main danger is posed by viral and fungal pathologies, as they spread quickly and can cause infection of the entire garden bed.

In addition, there are non-infectious diseases that affect individual plants and deteriorate the quality of flowers. The diseases of these flowers and the fight against them will be described in detail below.

The author of the video will tell you a lot of useful information about cultural diseases and methods of combating them.

Viral diseases

Viral pathologies and their treatment represent the greatest difficulty. Pathogens can be found in planting material and soil, so symptoms of pathology can appear only at the stage of active growth or flowering.

August disease

This pathology is also called necrotic spotting. Its main symptom is the appearance of brown stripes on stems and leaves (Figure 1). Gradually, the affected areas increase in size, the leaves dry out and the plant dies.

The bulbs also become covered with characteristic spots and are not suitable for further cultivation. To prevent the spread of the virus, infected bushes are dug up and burned along with a lump of earth.

Figure 1. Symptoms of August disease

To prevent infection, you need to regularly replant plants, carry out pre-sowing treatment of bulbs and follow the rules of plant care. In addition, you need to carefully examine the early varieties, since they are the ones most susceptible to the pathogen.

Variegation

This pathology is considered the most common. It is manifested by a violation of the pigmentation of the petals. As a result, they are colored unevenly, and the plants themselves gradually degenerate (Figure 2).

Note: The pathogen passes from an infected bush to a healthy one through insects and garden tools with residual flower juice. Therefore, after cutting plants with signs of illness, all equipment must be disinfected.

Figure 2. Signs of variegation on leaves

To prevent the spread of variegation, it is necessary to actively combat pests and insects, promptly remove and destroy diseased plants, and regularly treat garden tools with disinfectant solutions.

Non-communicable diseases

Non-communicable diseases and their treatment are much simpler than viral pathologies, since they arise when the rules of growing flowers are not followed or under the influence of other environmental factors.

As a rule, in this case only individual bushes are affected, and not the entire garden bed, so dealing with non-contagious diseases will not be difficult.

Peduncle drooping

Pathology is provoked by a lack of calcium in the stems and leaves. A similar phenomenon is observed during increased flower growth, which is combined with elevated temperatures (Figure 3).

Figure 3. Drooping of the peduncle in plants

In addition, an unripe bulb that was dug up too early and then planted for cultivation can provoke drooping of the peduncle. This planting material contains few useful substances for the formation of a full-fledged bush.

To prevent infection, only high-quality planting material is selected for planting, special fertilizing is applied and the growing temperature is strictly observed.

Gum treatment

It appears when grown improperly or under the influence of unfavorable environmental factors.

Gum discharge can be caused by excessive lighting of the bed. This is possible when growing flowers in a greenhouse or forcing them at home. Usually, to combat the disease, it is enough to change the lighting regime, but the plants need to be closely monitored, as they will become more susceptible to viruses.

"Blind" buds

The main reason for the development is improper storage of bulbs or too early planting in open ground. In any case, the bulbs contain too few nutrients, and the plants grow actively without developing a normal root system.

Figure 4. Blind buds on plants

As a result, a large and lush bush without buds can grow in the flowerbed (Figure 4). An additional provoking factor may be infection of the bulbs with fusarium. In order not to prevent the formation of blind buds, you must strictly follow the rules for planting and storing bulbs, as well as inspect and reject planting material with signs of fusarium.

Fungal diseases

Fungal diseases, like viral ones, pose a great danger to flowers due to their high speed of spread.

Even healthy plants affected by the fungus can stop growing and flowering, and under certain favorable conditions, the disease will quickly spread to the entire flowerbed and the harvest will be lost. That is why you need to know the main signs of fungi and methods of combating them.

Gray rot

Causes damage to the entire plant as a whole: from the bulb to the buds (Figure 5). The fungus develops especially actively at high humidity and can cause infection of all flowers in a short time.

Figure 5. Symptoms of gray mold

At the initial stage, the bushes are covered yellow spots, which gradually turn into a characteristic gray coating. This provokes curvature of the stem and deterioration in the quality of the buds.

To prevent gray rot, planting material is treated with special preparations before planting, sprayed with Bordeaux mixture during budding, and mineral fertilizers are regularly applied.

Root rot

Root rot develops with increased soil moisture. The initial symptoms of infection may not be noticed, since the rot partially affects the roots. However, with severe damage, the bushes become weak, practically do not grow, and the buds lose their decorative properties (Figure 6).

Figure 6. Manifestations of root rot

Over time, the root system becomes watery, the plant does not receive enough nutrients and dies. To prevent this, plants are planted in soil with good drainage and treated with fungicides before planting.

Botrytium rot

It begins to appear in the form of darkening and softening of the bulbs. Fungal spores begin to be released, which penetrate the soil and spread throughout the flowerbed.

Figure 7. Plants infected with botrytium rot

Infected crops do not grow, bloom poorly, and if there is too much fungus, they do not even sprout (Figure 7).

Botrytis rot can be combated by treating planting material with fungicides.

Soft rot

Infected bulbs acquire a characteristic pink color. This, like rotting of the root system, may not be noticed, but when the buds wither, it makes sense to dig up one bush and inspect its roots.

An additional symptom is yellowing of the leaves. Affected plants should be removed and burned, and the remaining ones should be treated with a fungicide. The same preparation is used for pre-sowing treatment of bulbs.

Tyfulosis

This pathology belongs to the types of white rot. The sprouts of a diseased plant turn red, the roots turn yellow, and the leaves and buds stop growing and curl.

Tyfulosis is carried by weeds and insects living in the soil, so for prevention you need to carefully loosen the soil before planting, regularly remove weeds and carry out preventive spraying with fungicides.

Fusarium

In diseased plants, the flower stalks become too thin and the stems become weak. The symptoms of fusarium are especially visible during storage: infected bulbs become soft, change color and are not suitable for cultivation (Figure 8).

Figure 8. Bulbs affected by fusarium

If, nevertheless, such a bulb has been planted, at the first signs of infection of adult plants, they are dug up and destroyed, and the soil is treated with special chemicals.

The author of the video will tell you how to properly process bulbs to prevent diseases.

Not only diseases, but also pests pose a danger. These insects not only transmit pathogens, but also independently weaken plants, deteriorating the quality of flowers and bulbs.

Among the main pests of tulips I highlight t (Figure 9):

1. Tuberous and onion hoverfly- an insect that feeds on the lower part of the bulbs, causing them to rot. Damaged plants begin to wither and die. Since the pest larvae spend the winter in the bulbs, the planting material must be treated.
2. Nematodes live on the roots of plants, and their metabolic products provoke the formation of uncharacteristic growths. As a result, the root system begins to rot and the crop dies.
3. Onion root mite may enter the bulbs during storage and during cultivation. Immediately after infection, plants stop growing. To cope with mites, you need to dig the soil deeply in the spring, treat the bulbs with karbofos, and mulch the finished beds.

Figure 9. Main pests of tulips: 1 - hoverfly, 2 - root nematode, 3 - root bulb mite, 4 - aphid

Tulips are also often affected by aphids. This pest feeds on plant juices, gradually leading to their death. Regardless of the type of pest, special chemicals are used for control, which are sprayed on plants and the soil around them.

There may be several reasons for the leaves of tulips to wilt. First of all, it is perhaps worth considering possible violations water regime, because this cause is easiest to eliminate and then exclude. If the leaves continue to remain limp, it means that the plants are lacking some element, or they are overcome by diseases and pests.

Tulips are moisture-loving plants. To form a healthy bulb that produces a beautiful peduncle, they need a lot of moisture. Moisture enters the plant in the following way: first - into the bulb, then - along the stem to the flower, and lastly - to the leaves. If there is not enough moisture in the soil, the leaves will also lack it and they will droop. To eliminate this factor, you need to thoroughly water the tulips.

Perhaps the watering is sufficient, but the weather is very hot. Tulips are early spring flowers and do not like heat. When planting tulips, it is better to choose places where there is no bright sun, which can be too hot in late spring or early summer. If the location is sunny and the leaves of the tulips are drooping, try spraying the plants and covering them from the sun at midday.

Lack of nutrients

If watering is not the issue, it is likely that your tulip bulbs are lacking nutrients. The shortage also primarily affects the leaves. Watering again will help. This time with mineral fertilizer. If the reason is a lack of moisture, after evening watering the next morning the leaves will become healthy and rise again. After compensating for the lack of nutrients, flowers need more time to return to normal. You may notice changes for the better within 3-4 days.

Diseases and pests

But if, despite all the measures taken, the leaves remain limp and begin to turn yellow and dry, it means that your tulips are sick or damaged by pests. There are about thirty fungal diseases that tulips can be exposed to. The most dangerous of them are fusarium, gray mold and sclerotial rot. They damage the bulb. And in this case, limp leaves may be a signal that the entire plant will die.

To verify the presence of a fungal infection, it is necessary to remove one plant with drooping leaves from the soil along with the bulb and inspect it. If the bulb is damaged, all plants should be treated. To prevent fungal diseases, the soil under the tulips must be watered with copper preparations (copper sulfate). If you don’t have vitriol on hand, use a saturated solution of potassium permanganate. You can spray all plants with a one percent solution of Bordeaux mixture.

The most common pest on tulips is the onion mite. It can be detected by examining the bulb in which the pest makes passages. A plantation infected with a mite is dealt with as follows. the bulbs are dug up and before laying on winter storage are being processed hot water+45°C for five minutes. Next year, it is better to plant a flowerbed with tulips in a different place.

January is the time to wake up forcing plants. Making a plant bloom ahead of time may seem simple at first glance, but at the same time problematic. Anyone who has been forcing has probably encountered failure: asking themselves why the tulips did not bloom, why the buds froze and did not open, why the leaves turned yellow and withered...

Surely, when preparing tulips for forcing, you did everything according to the rules:

• We chose large, healthy, dense bulbs;
• For planting, a high-quality moisture-intensive and breathable substrate was prepared, drainage was laid at the bottom of the pot;
• The pot with the planted bulbs was placed in a dark, cool place. Maintain moderate soil moisture;
• As soon as the sprouts appeared (4-6 cm high), they brought the pots into a warm and bright room (temperature +10-12°C), with high humidity (70-80%).

1. Inspect the bulbs; perhaps they are too small and do not have a flower bud;
2. Maybe at the beginning of forcing the temperature was too high, or the soil in the pot was not moist;
3. If the bulbs have not been sufficiently cooled before planting, you will not see full flowers. It is necessary to create a long artificial winter (depending on the variety from 16 to 22 weeks);
4. Premature increase in temperature and access to light. And also high temperature at the beginning of forcing leads to deformation of the flower.
5. With insufficient and late watering, the plant stops growing and the buds do not open;
6. Leaves turn yellow from drafts and poor lighting;
7. Peduncles break - lack of calcium in the soil.

If you want it the peduncle appeared earlier leaves - place the pots with hatched sprouts in a room with a fairly high air temperature. Cover the sprouts with inverted pots or a paper cover (for about two weeks). As soon as the flower arrow appears, remove the cover.

To get strong and long stems – as soon as you bring the plants into the room for forcing, the temperature should be in the range of +12-14°C (the first week), the lighting should be low. As soon as the bud hatches, increase the temperature to +18-20 degrees, provide full lighting.

When the tulips have finished blooming, cut off the flower stems and continue to water and feed the bulbs in the pots. So, during the forcing they were very exhausted. When the leaves of the bulbs turn yellow and wither, remove them from the soil, dry them first at a temperature of +24 ° C, then lower the temperature to + 17-19 ° C, and keep the bulbs in a cool room before planting them in the ground. Plant in the garden beds in the fall.